nadracer

Same here. I haven't been driving mine much. I take the train a lot or need drive my wife's 2015 Forester Touring; great car btw. The new 2.5/CVT are mated well. Just went I thought the tune was over, Edward contacted me with some rapid fire updates. It was like he read my mind solving an irking issue I was having with power delivery at low rpm between 1400-2000. In 4-5 gear there was some power loss too. Much of that is solved and then of course more timing and ignition on 92 octane. Still logging to refine the car if I can just get to actually have time drive it. Seriously Edward needs a standing ovation

Welcome to the dark side of the tune

The only option I ever found was to use an older 3.0 H6 manifold. Yes, its aluminum but heat soak is small; port match it and ceramic coat it. If you're really worried about soak, you could have some phenolic spacers made up. Those should be cheap to make up; maybe $100. There are companies that can p&p your throttle body if you send it to them. Those services usually cost about $400.

Yes I did. Here is my post about it http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/port-polish-your-throttle-body-226084.html I only worked on the intake side since I wasn't about to try and port match to a plastic intake manifold. No I didn't take the pin out. That would mean drilling out the screws & breaking the electronics to pull the pin & valve. I'd have no way to reassemble without sending it out or a working car for a while without a spare. New OEM replacements are around $500 and the salvage yards had reasonable prices but each I talked to about getting a spare were.....well...dicks when I asked them for the condition of the part.

Coolant goes through that line but you could always run a bypass around it.

The size of the throttle plate is stamped on the valve. Here is a photo of mine before my second pass of grinding and polishing. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/danbob_bucket/IMG_4699_zps1a53675a.jpg This link below from Boomba's has a different image angle of the body. The extra bolts must be hidden behind this weird sandwich construction. The WRX/STI have four bolts just like ours. http://www.boombaracing.com/subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-75mm-dbw-throttle-body-bolt-on/ My feeling is since there is a 09 GT fitment (I'm like 90% sure) we have the same size TB casing so it might line up. Anyway the on Boombas site price is sounds a lot better than $700.

65mm

Actually, you already have support, you just need your ECU rom defined. This can be done by downloading your rom, joining Romraider, and uploading your rom while being a bit patient. Edward uses Romraider to assist in some rom definitions. Not to be too much a shill for Edward, I only mentioned him because he can guide you through tuning remotely. I'm in Pennsylvania USA and Edward is in Barbados. I'm over 300 miles from the nearest Subaru tuner so its not exactly doable with a family which made him ideal. The fact that he can do the job made it worth it.

For tuning your 2.5l check with Edward at http://www.xtremeracingtuning.com/ He can probably do something bout the tuning on your car. He's done the previous gen 2.5. I'm not sure if he can do the cvt but he's pretty clever.

The EZ30 and the EZ36 are very similar and the EZ30D from the early 2000 model H6 has an aluminum intake manifold. If one of those can be picked from a junker there is a high possibility it'll fit. Then you could possibly get them port matched; EZ30D manifold and the EZ36 throttle body.

I'd send those headers to a place like JetHot for a coating. http://www.jet-hot.com/

Didn't you need a special tool to freeze the crank pully bolt?

Buy one piece of gutter guard, spray paint it black, and cut to fit. It's an identical pattern.

Yeah, a third hole,.... just behind the knee. Really since you've gone that far mind as well cut out all that fake plastic mesh and replace it with the real stuff.

Ha the outback is barf.

Yep, one of my stockers came apart after the first winter. Probably would have been fine if I never decided to upgrade the rear sway. The threads disintegrated holding the bolt. The other side was fine. I think the side with the gruesome death just got lucky.

From my meager understanding of the rom, not all tables are changed across the board. There are other tables a tuner would change less to allow the variance which would give that kind of forgiveness. Of course there are limits but that is what knocking, pinging, and dead motors are for:lol:

At 93 octane for more power I'd more inclined towards just gaining additional drivability. Less throttle latency, better shift points, less restrictions, power would be nice but improved drivability I define as almost the same thing.

What octane do you have to run in the car?

Any possibility some one could compile a open source tuning thread/sticky?

My OEM box fits a bit more secure than what you have. Much of that was because of the minor filing to fit. Lines up next to perfect. I didn't see anything looking flimsy. I just wished the couplings had more length to them so getting the tube into position wasn't a pain. I've had a few other brands of CAI's on various cars and this fits right in with them on quality; Iceman, K&N's, and Injen. I thought about that same tape on the Takeda too during my install. I have two different size rolls from working on my home A/C from last spring.

Do it. Replace the OEM with better pads and drive the pants off it. Your not going to feel much difference with new rotors unless maybe they're vented and cross drilled. Not a huge difference unless you're on a track day. OEM rotors are ok.

There is a cutout on mine but as I said earlier in the post the Takeda really doesn't use the other half of the stock box for anything other than something to lean on since it has no way of supporting itself otherwise. I may close off the hole for the milk jug eventually. As for the filing I did, I didn't loosen the bolts since I did not want this to bounce around under hard throttle. That does make putting it in a little harder but I don't have to worry about it popping off. I did however want the Takeda box to slide in/out easier so I filed the plastic for the tabs to fit in better. The seal I didn't cut into pieces I did however slice it a little on the edge so it would bend easier around the corners; it's still one long continuous piece. Fitting the tubing I did get the elbow where I wanted it first on the new box then aligned it to the tube.

Hawk HPS pads are a nice improvement over the OEM pads. PN: PP-HPS-FR-1206 (this part number is for both sets front/rear)

"Problem" is such a harsh word. There is no problem, I'm trying to figure out how it could be better. Might be by a tune, mixing parts, lengthening/twisting this or that.