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AVO Turbokit - the Install


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Paul,

 

EBCS is better or worse than a manual for this particular application? I know EBCS is more accurate but do/will a manual BC suffer from cold turbo syndrome? Would/will this adversely effect operation until warm?

 

Good questions. Once it's set up properly, it's better. The thing about a manual boost controller is that it doesn't have any way to modulate duty cycles, there's no offset adjustment, it's just a set n' go sort of thing. Sounds easier on the surface of it, but then there's nothing to compensate for boost spikes. So you'll have to set it up like the EBC, wait till the turbo is completely hot and set the boost at that time.

 

Since MBC's are generally simple bleed systems, there will be more pressure on the actuator while it's approaching target boost. This pressure on the actuator can lead to the wastegate popping open slightly before it's reached target boost, especially in conjunction with backpressure from the exhaust system. That leads to less boost available throughout the range.

 

In comparison, the 3-port solenoid system keeps pressure off the actuator until target boost. So all the actuator has to deal with is exhaust backpressure. That quickly translates into more boost throughout the rpm range. Coupled with the system being able to deal with boost spikes, and you've got fairly comprehensive control of the boost, easier adjustment to compensate for gas quality issues, and a greater degree of safety.

 

As to usage - in the case of this turbo kit, the reason it's having a good effect is due to the need for us to run a 5psi actuator on the turbocharger. That's a must, because whatever you use for boost control, you cannot run lower boost than the actuator spring pressure itself. Given how fast it comes on boost, it's probably suffering from a little bit of "bleed" until it reaches 4.7psi and the wastegate starts bleeding the excess off. The solid actuator does a good job - I'm not sure I'd call this a "must have" item - but the EBC is doing a better job is all. And in my case especially, where I'm testing different boost levels that can be run on the engine, having the control over boost spikes is tremendous.

 

The last question, about it affecting operation until warm, the simple answer is no. Doesn't affect anything there, probably the only reason I notice anything is because I have a boost gauge now (the EBC) that's telling me what's going on at any time.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey there,

 

I've sent two enquiries from your website but havent heard anything yet, not sure if they are coming through.

 

Basically wanting to know how we'd go fitting this to an AUDM 05 liberty?

Not sure if you have had any expierience fitting to an Aus model or know of any differences that may affect us.

 

I read that the US05 needs a later manifold, so does that mean pre facelift models would need post facelift models? Which i guess helps us identify the manifold issue for us aussies.

 

Still havent got the funds all together, but at this stage i am probably 5 to 6 months away from ordering.

 

thanks

 

John

 

john@castekauto.net

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06+ has a different header and cat layout then 05s.

If you're header looks like this

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m194/star91281/0813091032.jpg

then you're set.

 

If it looks like this

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d181/huck_this/car%20stuff/IMG_2090.jpg

Then you'll need a custom setup, or get an 06+ header/cat. (we got the facelift later then you guys, so I'm not sure what years your facelifted models came.)

 

Though this is all for USDM though.

 

I know that you got the 4th gen one year before us, so maybe by 05 you also had the new header?

 

Either way, just take a peek under your car and see what header you have, and then go from there.

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Sorry I wasn't able to reply sooner, had Monday off due to holiday. The kit *should* fit the AUDM Liberty/Legacy, but exact details are impossible to verify from here. MY in different countries doesn't always translate across correctly. For instance, a 2005 Legacy in America is a 2004 MY Legacy in other countries - in most cases. So it's possible that your MY 2005 Legacy/Liberty is a 2006 USDM setup.

 

As you are in Melbourne, you may want to swing by our main company office in Cheltenham, they'd be able to sort you out fairly quick, and give you a quote on the kit there.

 

AVO Australia

57 Taunton drive

Cheltenham, Victoria

Melbourne 3197

Ph 61-39-584-4499

Fax 61-39-584-4008

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

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i have a question that i am sure has been asked before, but will putting a turbo in my NA car void my extended warrenty?

 

NO! if the warranty claim is cuased by the kit then they will void THAT SPECIFIC REQUESTED repair i.e. you put the kit on and you blow a head gasket.

 

This is directly caused by the increased (boosted) pressures causes by the turbo charger. If you put the kit on and your rear wheel bearing goes out they will more than likely replace it.

 

No warranty is really VOIDed only the claims DENIED.

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Kit:$3400 and if you install (tap oil pan, tune) you may be looking at $3700

 

On the safe tune (a 07 OB with an unknown service record, 120K+ miles) this thing gave 75hp gain! Thats $49.33/hp. That was "SAFE" and they indicate that it could be ran at 7-8 psi on the test Outback safely, that would get you around 25-30 MORE hps so lets say you gain 100 hp AT THE WHEEL over stock that $37.00/hp

 

There is NO OTHER mod or combo of mods/tuning that can safely and consistently give a EJ253 those gains.

 

You want cams $1000 total you might get 6 hp at the wheel which is useless. You want a full EL header back exhaust thats at least $1500 you might get 2 hp. Intake($200)? useless. Tuning helps more than all the former combined and cost around $150-$350 maybe more if you pro-tune on the dyno.

 

So if you performed the above enhancements you would have spent around $3000 and gained maybe 30 wheel hp on the extreme end. This kit you get double that on "safe" and possibly quadruple on a mild tune.

 

Paul and his team don't make crap just ask the 01 2.5RS owner with 40K on their stock Ej251 running the AVO kit :)

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NO! if the warranty claim is cuased by the kit then they will void THAT SPECIFIC REQUESTED repair i.e. you put the kit on and you blow a head gasket.

 

This is directly caused by the increased (boosted) pressures causes by the turbo charger. If you put the kit on and your rear wheel bearing goes out they will more than likely replace it.

 

No warranty is really VOIDed only the claims DENIED.

 

Take Gee-Otto's advice if you have a good lawyer and want all the headaches associated with that. In the real world, since the additional power from the turbo will end up affecting nearly all of your drivetrain, you will constantly be denied warranty repairs. It'll take a good lawyer to fight for your rights.

 

Its part of the reason so many people recommend selling your NA Legacy and buying a LGT if you want to go turbo.

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