JermTheElf Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Hell, use a tape measure, I don't care, it'll work fine. Convert mm to inches. Google. Measure. Mark. Measure. Cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Why an angle grinder? Wrong tool. Go to Home Depot. Spend $20 on a brass craft 2-1/2" or whatever size pipe cutter. Spend $5 on a caliper to measure. Measure down, screw the pipe cutter down. Spin it around until it cuts through. It will cut it way faster. My dad has the slim disc for cutting. I don't really wanna already cut the first one. Didn't cut enough. I'm so confused, seriously. The little bumps on the Konis have to go inside the OEM strut housing right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Here. Measure from cap referring to measurements in Koni instructions. Make a mark. Measure your mark and verify. Drill a hole in bottom of strut to drain fluid. Cut your mark. Drill the bottom hole using a 9/16" drill bit. (14.2mm) Slide the Koni in until it won't go further. Thread the Allen bolt into the bottom following the instructions for proper order of the washers. As you torque it down the koni will get pulled into the strut housing and the bumps will slide into the housing, gripping the sides to hold it in place. Torque it down. Slide the white plastic washer down and slide the rubber boot over the shaft end of the Koni. Slide bump stop on and put the dust boot over. Assemble strut with spring. This is the easiest part of the install. I'd be worried on how you're going to get the springs assembled if this is tasking. Also make sure you cut it with the thin blade and perfectly flat. Take a flat piece of wood to verify that you've cut straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Here. Measure from cap referring to measurements in Koni instructions. Make a mark. Measure your mark and verify. Drill a hole in bottom of strut to drain fluid. Cut your mark. Drill the bottom hole using a 9/16" drill bit. (14.2mm) Slide the Koni in until it won't go further. Thread the Allen bolt into the bottom following the instructions for proper order of the washers. As you torque it down the koni will get pulled into the strut housing and the bumps will slide into the housing, gripping the sides to hold it in place. Torque it down. Slide the white plastic washer down and slide the rubber boot over the shaft end of the Koni. Slide bump stop on and put the dust boot over. Assemble strut with spring. This is the easiest part of the install. I'd be worried on how you're going to get the springs assembled if this is tasking. Also make sure you cut it with the thin blade and perfectly flat. Take a flat piece of wood to verify that you've cut straight. Thanks, this is what needed. Cut just enough for the bolt to grip the Koni. The torque is down which will cause those bumps to go in. Thanks so much man and I apologize for my noobish behavior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted May 5, 2013 I Donated Share Posted May 5, 2013 Fwiw I sucked the strut in with the screw first by itself then took it out, put on the washers and loctite and torqued it properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Man my setup is squeaking like crazy since the beginning of this week. Sounds like its from the rear. Forcing the rear up and down makes the noise. I used plastic loom too and the top nuts are tight. Wtf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Done with the cutting. The Brass Cutter was just amazing. Note to anyone else doing this. Don't be like me and try to hacksaw this. The brass cutter works wonders and makes the job a lot easier. Thanks for the help and putting up with my noobish behavior guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted May 5, 2013 I Donated Share Posted May 5, 2013 Done with the cutting. The Brass Cutter was just amazing. Note to anyone else doing this. Don't be like me and try to hacksaw this. The brass cutter works wonders and makes the job a lot easier. Thanks for the help and putting up with my noobish behavior guys. I offered to sell mine to you on the cheap when I sent you the struts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 I offered to sell mine to you on the cheap when I sent you the struts... Yea should have taken it. Didn't think it was gonna be so much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Good luck to you sir on the endeavor. I honestly hope you can find a way to make it work. I tried. Shipping costs and failed core returns (OEM bodies) killed my attempt. I still keep a set ready to install at the shop, but I dont offer to package and ship them anymore. But core return issues also killed the fuel pump housing mods we used to do as well. The price will be a premium for a premium service. We are going to use new housings with a core return refund if they decide to send them back. I'm not going to end up selling a ton of them but a few here and there. -Mike Paisan AZP's First Private Track Event, June 19 at NJMP Thunderbolt $315 including Classroom and Mentor! http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 So... I appear to have a squeak. Weather as of late has been in the 50-70F range. Seems to squeak more in the cold as this early morning it was chilly and squeaked like crazy. Seems to be coming from the rear, not the front. In the rear, I replaced the strut mouonts, but I did not replace the spring perch. Also, my Epics came with a length of black sheathing / tubing for part of the spring. I would hate to have to remove the rears to replace the spring perch, but I wonder if that could be it. I'm going to try moving the wrap into the tighter section of the springs to see if that helps. Hope I can do it just by jacking up the car and reaching into the well. Mike, what kind of tubing/wrap do you use to do the whole spring? I wonder if I can wrap it with the whole thing still mounted. I really don't want to remove the whole rear shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 For whatever it's worth, I didn't replace my rear spring seats either. They came off some donor struts with ~100k miles on them. But I don't have any squeaks, and I didn't add any tubing to my Epics or move the tubing that came with them. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 So... I appear to have a squeak. Weather as of late has been in the 50-70F range. Seems to squeak more in the cold as this early morning it was chilly and squeaked like crazy. Seems to be coming from the rear, not the front. In the rear, I replaced the strut mouonts, but I did not replace the spring perch. Also, my Epics came with a length of black sheathing / tubing for part of the spring. I would hate to have to remove the rears to replace the spring perch, but I wonder if that could be it. I'm going to try moving the wrap into the tighter section of the springs to see if that helps. Hope I can do it just by jacking up the car and reaching into the well. Mike, what kind of tubing/wrap do you use to do the whole spring? I wonder if I can wrap it with the whole thing still mounted. I really don't want to remove the whole rear shock. We use either the Home Depot wire loom stuff or the McMaster tubing. I think the mcmaster is better/more durable but costs more and is a bit of a PITA to install. We always R&R it when we do it because those coils are pretty tight and it just makes it quicker to R&R than try to do it 1/2 assed on the car. -Mike Paisan AZP's First Private Track Event, June 19 at NJMP Thunderbolt $315 including Classroom and Mentor! http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted May 6, 2013 I Donated Share Posted May 6, 2013 I've got about 2000 miles on my setup and I didn't change any of the tubing and i'm all set with no squeaks FWIW. I used new tophats all around, new spring perches in the rear and old ones in the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 My squeaking is really bad and I added tubing along the whole coil. Maybe I need to replace my perches and rear top hats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) We use either the Home Depot wire loom stuff or the McMaster tubing. I think the mcmaster is better/more durable but costs more and is a bit of a PITA to install. We always R&R it when we do it because those coils are pretty tight and it just makes it quicker to R&R than try to do it 1/2 assed on the car. The rear upper spring perches... are they made of rubber? I think my upper ones felt kind of stiff. Maybe that's the problem. I definitely replaced the strut mounts with new ones. Home Depot wire loom? Hmm This one? http://www.homedepot.com/p/UT-Wire-8-ft-Expandable-Flexi-Cable-Wrap-Black-UTW-FCW8-BK/203377810 Or this? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Buchanan-3-8-in-Split-Flexible-Tubing-Connector-772240/100137132 Not sure what the thickness/diameter of the spring coils is. edit: Did some searching, definitely not one of those 2. Can you be more specific with what you guys use, maybe a link? Thanks. Edited May 6, 2013 by iNVAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 This was more like what was on my Swifts. McMaster-Carr Loom - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Is there a site where we can buy the rear spring perches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Any Subaru dealership, a bunch of vendors here. Personally, I'm going to call up FredBeansParts about them after I try some other things. Really don't wanna pull out the shocks to put them in unless I know that that's what's squeaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 FBP, IPT, AZP, myself... we all carry OEM. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted May 6, 2013 I Donated Share Posted May 6, 2013 I think I have My used ones I pulled off my OEM setup if you want them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I think I have My used ones I pulled off my OEM setup if you want them Maybe I just need to grease mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Grease the upper perch? It's a rubber isolator... it shouldn't be greased. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Why would it squeak? If its worn out? Would the upper coil break through the isolator and scratch metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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