Tmemz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Damn. So cutting then to a certan lenghth does not effect anything other than the insert sliding in? It will pull through and bottom out no matter how little i cut, just cant cut too much so the bumps show Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 You are just trying to make sure that the bumps get drawn down fully into the strut housing. The bumps keep the shock cartridge centered in the strut housing while the bolt at the bottom keeps it locked in place. If you cut it to the same distance that you measured, the bumps would not be engaging the side walls of the strut housing. Damn. So cutting then to a certan lenghth does not effect anything other than the insert sliding in? It will pull through and bottom out no matter how little i cut, just cant cut too much so the bumps show The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 25, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 25, 2013 Damn. So cutting then to a certan lenghth does not effect anything other than the insert sliding in? It will pull through and bottom out no matter how little i cut, just cant cut too much so the bumps show Pretty much. Best thing to do is get the brasscraft pipe cutter from home depot and use that to cut the housings as far up as the cutter will let you. You rest it against the silver / bronze cap and cut around that. Someone is selling pre-cut housings in the classifieds I think if you decide you need them. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Yea i deff do, will look into it asap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 25, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 25, 2013 post up some pictures to be sure, did you suck the strut all the way down? I used the screw to pull mine in and then backed it out to put loctite on and then put the torque on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 They bottomed out and i got them tourqued dwn to 50 but i can still see the bumps on both Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 You will need new housings. Need to cut them as close to the top ring as possible. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Why not just cutting them at the silver cap edge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 27, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 27, 2013 The brass craft cutter won't get right up against the silver thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 What about the hack saw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 27, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 27, 2013 Not as good of a cut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Ok Would it be to much to ask if someone could provide pics on where to set the Pipe cutter at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 It seems to me from reading this that cutting less is fine but that cutting more is a big problem. Just look at this picture from the OP: http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6314/img8947s.jpg You can tell that if you cut too much, the bumps won't be able to get into the strut housing... which is what this tmemz guy did. Cutting too little, well, you have some room the play with. See how much yellow is exposed in that picture? You can cut *that* much less and still be okay, as long as the top of the strut housing doesn't hit the lip of the Koni strut body. At least that's my take on it.... And if your cut is crooked, it won't affect a whole lot except the rubber piece won't sit level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Ok Would it be to much to ask if someone could provide pics on where to set the Pipe cutter at? Basically, put the pipe cutter on the tube and then slide up it until it rests against the cap. I don't have pics, but you'll fully understand once you get the pipe cutter on there. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
famaya26 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Thanks Will look at it when I get the pipe cutter Also what do you guys think about painting the OEM Housing Yellow? To match the Konis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 It'd definitely be bright. That said, the stock Bilsteins are full yellow housings and they didn't look out of place on the car. They'll get a coat of dirt over them pretty quick that'll tone down the brightness. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farberio Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 You can tell that if you cut too much, the bumps won't be able to get into the strut housing... which is what this tmemz guy did. THANK YOU!!! I wasn't sure if the bumps were supposed to go into the housing or not and no-one has seemed to have stated positively one way or the other. I saw that the bumps were going to enter but I wasn't sure if those bumps were where the cut should be or should actually enter the mounting tube. I cut mine and the bumps will definitely be inside the shock body so I am good to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 THANK YOU!!! I wasn't sure if the bumps were supposed to go into the housing or not and no-one has seemed to have stated positively one way or the other. I saw that the bumps were going to enter but I wasn't sure if those bumps were where the cut should be or should actually enter the mounting tube. I cut mine and the bumps will definitely be inside the shock body so I am good to go! That is correct! -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 All this discussion had me recheck my work (after driving for months) and sure enough I've been driving with my driver side bumps sitting just atop of the strut. Which must of bee the cause of noises I'd randomly get 40% of the time, even on the flattest roads. I always thought it was one of my endlinks. I ordered this to redo the work. the top part is a little different, but as longs as its 'long' enough, I suppose I should be fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/350757001149?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmemz Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 It was really noticeable to see when cut right how much is sucked in to bottom it out. And also how short my cuts were on the bad set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hoping this isn't thread jack, but I have a follow-on question regarding the Whiteline tophats.., so I used the Spec B tophats because I wanted the better bearings, but now I have a saggy rear appearance going on..., so I either wanted to lower the front a little more or get rear spacers. I'm leaning towards the front. Will the Whiteline units be the same size then as the stock LGT tophats so I can get it a little lower, not need the extra washer as a spacer, and get the better bearing? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Mike can probably answer definitely, but being an Australian product I would imagine these are designed for Bilsteins. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 They are designed around "KYB" size strut shafts (Original application is 08+ WRX, not LGT we just benefit from the cross fit). Here is a link with some info: http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update%20BL-428.pdf Note that they specifically state no sacrifice in ride height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 It was really noticeable to see when cut right how much is sucked in to bottom it out. And also how short my cuts were on the bad set My housings worked out okay for ya? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 As mike said, the ComC strut tops are for non-bilsteins. They don't need the extra washer to tighten down like the GroupN/SpecB ones do. -Mike Paisan AZP's First Private Track Event, June 19 at NJMP Thunderbolt $315 including Classroom and Mentor! http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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