GEE-OTTO Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 so quiet i think you need some rumble in the Outback They look sexy honestly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Why does AVO (and others) put those enlarged tips on the muffler and pipe hangers? Like, where's the thing going to go once it's all mounted and bolted up? The OEM's don't have them and I haven't seems a Suby loose their exhaust system yet... I cut mine off, way easier to remove and install when you need to pull the exhaust out of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katalyst Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 ^ you cut off the exhaust hangers???? the hangers keep the muffler stabilized during car movement and prevent them from bouncing around and clanking on other areas which may damage the muffler. also, how do they stay straight without the hangers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malt Beverage Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Rallitek now lists the front underbody brace as working on the 2005 2.5i (and other years). What's up with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 ^ you cut off the exhaust hangers???? the hangers keep the muffler stabilized during car movement and prevent them from bouncing around and clanking on other areas which may damage the muffler. also, how do they stay straight without the hangers? think he just meant the bulge at the end of the hangers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 ^The new site is disorganized IMO. I like the old site better and it didn't list the front underbody brace for 2.5i's, which is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Rallitek now lists the front underbody brace as working on the 2005 2.5i (and other years). What's up with that? Probably an error - I know for certain they won't fit. Already checked. We may have a solution for that in a few months... Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malt Beverage Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 I figured as much, thanks for the update . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Such a shame, those beautiful mufflers attached to that crap-tastic midpipe.. Fab up a midpipe, it will get rid of that huge resonator and bring out the rumble.. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 I just wanted a sound test of mufflers only, a lot of people just swap those in. There's no need to fabricate a mid-pipe up.... (aka coming soon to a thread near you!) Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 why can't we just use the LGT stuff same size, locations, etc ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Different bumper on the Outback, it's a straight cut bumper without muffler cutouts. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Well, we do have center pipes for the Legacy, which fit the Outback - but they are 3" Stainless Steel. Great sizing for a turbo car, maybe not the best for a N/A car or light turbo application N/A. So we made something that is. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Given that the usually dreary PNW is about to hit the 90's and above this weekend, the modifications for this time around were timely. I've worked with Wayne at VTR (http://www.vtrweb.com/) before and knew he does absolutely top notch work, so had them put in the max legal tint. I could have gone for a bit more, but with all the stickers and overall look and sound of this thing at the end of the project, I don't want to attract any more attention from the police than I need to. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/tint/tint_03.jpg http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/tint/tint_01.jpg On the third day now, so can soon roll down my windows again! Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Now for the day-long work… Japan was kind enough to send me over an entire Bilstein setup from a low-mileage car there. So far so good. Unfortunately, all but one of the shock/strut assemblies were in pieces. Thus a two-hour job turned into a 6+ hour job. Very honestly, if you got the proper tools and fully assembled strut assemblies (that are oriented correctly…), you can rip through a suspension install in a couple of hours. However, putting the assemblies together is a mind-numbing and finger bashing slog through spring compressor adjustments and getting the right alignment on all the parts. Pretty much a simple set of tools are necessary - 19mm Socket, 19mm Wrench, 12mm Socket, Jackstands, Jack, Jack Daniels, gloves. I started by unscrewing the brake sensor and brake lines from the strut assembly. All this requires is a 12mm socket (and having jacked up the car and removed the tires). http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_001.jpg http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_002.jpg Then you may want to unbolt the top of the strut towers from the car at this time. Again, the 12mm socket - something you *must* own as many versions as possible of, if you want to take your Subaru apart. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_003.jpg Then it's time to unbolt the bottom of the struts. All that requires is a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and if you are lucky, an air tool. You can do it with a regular socket wrench, but be prepared to break out the breaker bar. The top bolt is an eccentric bolt for alignments - if you want, mark it's position so that you can put it back to the same point. Or be like me and just rip the bolts out and consider that amazing idea at a later time... http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_004.jpg The brake assembly will just rotate forward at this time, and you can work the strut assembly out with minimal hassle and scraped knuckles. Sounds pretty simple, and it is. Here's what the stock Outback 2.5i struts look like compared to the Bilsteins. As you can see, they only look half an inch shorter at this point, but there's less coils on the springs (so stiffer). http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_005.jpg Install is the exact opposite of removal, and you'll probably be patting yourself on the back at this point. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_006.jpg But there's still the rears… Remove all the trim in the rear (if you've an Outback or Wagon), this will give you access to the top of the rear struts. There is two 12mm nuts per side - you can reach under the trip with a 12mm wrench easy enough (though maddeningly slow) or you might be able to get a socket in there. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_007.jpg Then the bottom of the sprint/strut assembly is held on with, yet again, a 19mm nut/bolt combination. This is fairly easy to remove with an impact wrench. Otherwise, get familiar with your breaker bar. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_008.jpg Well, getting the nut off that bolt was the easy part. Getting it out of there not quite so. The pressure of the strut pushes down so hard on it that it's very difficult to get out. I found the simplest method to just get the jack underneath it and put enough upper pressure on the strut to knock the bolt out. That was accomplished by a big-*** screwdriver and a hammer. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_009.jpg Now the difference between the stock strut and the Bilstein is much more pronounced. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_010.jpg Because the Bilstein *is* shorter than the stock, it's probably goes in easier than an stock unit. However, I still needed to use the jack to put enough pressure on the strut bottom that it would line up with the rear arm assembly. Then it's just a matter of getting the big bolt back in, bolting up the top, and making sure everything is tight. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_011.jpg And finally, pictures of the car on the ground! http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_012.jpg http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/susp/susp_013.jpg I need to drive it around a bit to get everything to settle, it'll go down a bit more. Hard to believe that is stock Legacy height, it looks much lower on the Outback. The nice thing is that it will still have some reasonable ground clearance. If you do hear any rattling at this point, it means the top hats were not fully tightened down when you were putting the strut assemblies together. I really don't want to talk about that, as the memories are very fresh and excruciatingly painful. All I can say is, make damned sure they are tight. Oh, and if you don't have an impact wrench, I honestly am unsure on how you are exactly supposed to tighten the top nut of the hat down. It involves an allen head, a 17mm wrench, and a Bulgarian contortionist - I think. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toreadorranger Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 A pass through socket set will let you use the allen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 Just throwing it out here: http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/avo_outback/wheels_01.jpg http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/avo_outback/wheels_02.jpg http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/avo_outback/wheels_03.jpg Regards, Paul Hansenhttp://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katalyst Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 lookin good !! thanks for the writeup again on the install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubunderpar Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Why must you make me want to spend nore money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 And you plan for an alignment soon, right...?I found once lowered the rear toe became very positive and the front camber will be a bit higher too. Did you install the shorter Legacy helpers on the rear too? Can you provide any more details on the part number of these items? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted August 14, 2010 Author Share Posted August 14, 2010 I'll put a list up asap. It's getting to be a bit long, and not done yet! Alignment is most definitely planned for. I had just been waiting to finish up everything that I was going to do to the suspension that would impact the alignment. I've got the steering rack bushings to put up as well - just haven't written that up yet. That is really the last of the suspension changes. Well.. for now. I'll be doing the short shifter, transmission mount bushings in the future. I've also got our new 2.5" stainless steel mid-pipe setup for the N/A to put on, but I'll leave doing that till after the WCSS event next weekend - I want to be able to show it to people at the event, and it's kind of easier to see off the car than on! There is also some new things coming in to try out, but I'll wait on announcements till I have them in hand. Regards, Paul Hansenhttp://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Dammit that looks/sounds nice.. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimaa66 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 ^The new site is disorganized IMO. I like the old site better and it didn't list the front underbody brace for 2.5i's, which is correct. Totally agree. Rallitek's new site isn't what I had hoped. Very hard for N/A people to find things... And the Outback is coming along nice. Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Which Bilsteins are these? No spacers are removed - any camber curve issues? Last - different subject - how about a dogbone? 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leke Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 ... I've also got our new 2.5" stainless steel mid-pipe setup for the N/A to put on.. More details on this, please!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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