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Aside from the spark plugs ignition cables can be a culprit too, fresh and clean cables helps. (OK, if you have directly connected coils that doesn't apply)

 

Another issue that can cause rough idle is if the ignition is too early. Too fat mixture on idle can also cause the engine to have a rough idle.

 

And maybe you should check out the injectors to make sure that they are matched. May pay off in the long run. Unevenly matched injectors can in worst case burn a valve. (I know that from experience)

 

 

well i have a wide band o2 sensor. i played with the afr at idle it seams to be the happyiest at 13.5 afr at idle. and i have played with timming also its pretty happy now.

 

what still bugging me is the stock tach, it works one out of 5 times. when it works the idle is controled and etc.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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well i have a wide band o2 sensor. i played with the afr at idle it seams to be the happyiest at 13.5 afr at idle. and i have played with timming also its pretty happy now.

 

what still bugging me is the stock tach, it works one out of 5 times. when it works the idle is controled and etc.

 

That is a bit interesting, and it may indicate that there may be a voltage difference for the signals that is causing problems. Maybe you shall check all the grounding spots? If the voltage isn't going to zero for the signals from the sensors but flats out at +1V at low instead it may be enough for strange things to happen. (I did experience that on a Ford Sierra with a badly grounded ECU, as soon as I connected a measuring tool everything started to work - it was that close.)

 

Even placing a resistor between signal and ground could help. Or possibly the other way around - a pull-up resistor lifting the high voltage. But be careful - some inputs wants a lower voltage as high voltage. 0/3V, 0/5V or even something else.

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Was wondering about this as well, using the stock gear display but with MegaShift. Guessing that's your plan. Was hoping to get the TCU to do it, but as you said the TCU is going to be pissed...

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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damn that front mount is huge. You know its comming videos videos!

 

on side note we need that smilie like the this thread is worthless without pics but instead saying this update is worthless without videos!

 

awesome job keep it up!

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ok, i know i say it alot.. But you still havent hooked up the turbo to intake ( atleast it doesnt look it) Id like to see how it will all fit. I see the front mount, how does that run to the out of the turbo then to the inlet of intake?
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I know this might be a repeat question, but how much, if any of the front framing did you have to cut. I'm not sure I can tell by the photos (and not owning that year or similar). Is there any compromise of the frame, which would affect the torsional strength of the body?

 

i cut the upper and lower rad supports,

then replaced the lower one with a 1-1/2" square tube 3/16" wall and the upper one is a removeable angle iron 3/16" thick.

 

this won't affect the structual regidity of the car becuase its mostly done by the unibody cab ie window struts and door posts. also what i replaced the parts with is much stronger than original.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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ok, i know i say it alot.. But you still havent hooked up the turbo to intake ( atleast it doesnt look it) Id like to see how it will all fit. I see the front mount, how does that run to the out of the turbo then to the inlet of intake?

 

it will be the exact same routing as i had with the 2.5 subie engine with the holset turbo and the very same front mount IC.

 

that is the easiest part of this whole swap but the pipes kinda get in the way of what i'm working on to get rid of a few bugs.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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