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Racer X (itsme) FMIC install


itsme

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Anyone elses bov flange in the wrong spot? I think I can make it work by unbolting the tube from the back of the intake manifold, but I wasn't expecting to have to. Installing the j-pipe and the lower drivers side pipe wasn't too fun, and I'm not too stoked at how those 2 pipes come together. Right now the coupler is touching my hood liner when I shut the hood.

 

You have to take off the bolt that holds the BOV return hose to let the hose meet up with the BOV.
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yea i trimmed that tab A LOT haha like its about straight down now but i used a bolt and a zip tie on the top of the intercooler and pulled it as far right as i could with the bumper beam off i got it over to the right about a half an inch more it keeps getting pushed back to the left by the bumper beam. but it holds boost and thats what matters haha.
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holy smokes this took me forever to install yesterday. does fit snug though. so snug that when i tightened the bumper beam back up it pushed the intercooler so tight it bent the radiator support behind it and now I have to slam my hood to shut it.

 

 

The core can rotate slightly once both pipes are connected. If you bent the bracket it is because the core needed to rotate. Patience is key.

 

 

 

Anyone elses bov flange in the wrong spot? I think I can make it work by unbolting the tube from the back of the intake manifold, but I wasn't expecting to have to. Installing the j-pipe and the lower drivers side pipe wasn't too fun, and I'm not too stoked at how those 2 pipes come together. Right now the coupler is touching my hood liner when I shut the hood.

 

The install thread specifically states that you need to unbolt the BPV tube. The flange is in the right place. Because of the different sizes of BPV made the flange is rotated to accommodate all BPV's we could think of. You must remove the bolt holding the BPV tube to the back of the manifold to give it the slack required.

 

The J pipe is a snap to install. Put the coupling on the TB and tighten. then slip the J into the coupler. Takes some wiggle and pressure. But I have done it 4+ times with no issues.

 

The hardest pipe to install is the coldside from the Core up to the battery. This is the only reason the car needs to be lifted (installing this pipe). Insert from the bottom and rotate as you go up. 2 people is easier, but I have dome it myself too.

 

On both my kits I am clearing the hood liner. Not by much though. The pipe can move slightly depending on if you trimmed the metal by the bumper. the J pipe can move a small amount by playing with the angle in the TB coupler too.

 

Even if it hits the liner, it is not hitting the hood. It is an aftermarket mod. there are limitations that must be accepted.

 

If you have a taller than USDM OEM battery this is why you hit the liner too. I have USDM OEM batteries and can adjust the pipe enough to get my fingers between the pipe and the battery and just clear the liner.

 

Like I said before... Patience. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat.

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My battery is stock and is too tall. 2008 Spec B. It is 8 inches BUT I just remembered the battery was dead on the car on the lot and they put a new one in when I got the car so I guess they put in one larger than stock. It is a subaru battery but 1 inch taller. I got everything to fit even with the taller battery BUT it is tight..pretty happy so far!
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I think there is a slight amount of turbo spool noise. I think it is more like an echo in the pipe. My SpecB has so much NVH already that there is no difference. I think I can hear it in the 5EAT, but the wife says she hears nothing new, so all is good.
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My battery is stock and is too tall. 2008 Spec B. It is 8 inches BUT I just remembered the battery was dead on the car on the lot and they put a new one in when I got the car so I guess they put in one larger than stock. It is a subaru battery but 1 inch taller. I got everything to fit even with the taller battery BUT it is tight..pretty happy so far!

 

They gave you a taller battery. Bryan included a hump hose and clamps to assist in clearing a taller battery. You can cut the coldside pipe and use the hump hose coupler to extend the pipe a few inches to give the clearance.

 

This came up when we found out that the Canadian battery is taller than the USDM. Blame it on Canada, lol.

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The install thread specifically states that you need to unbolt the BPV tube.

 

That's my bad for not getting to that part yet. It is kind of hidden in their though.

 

I got the lower pipe in no problem, it is wedged against the overflow pretty tightly and I had trouble getting the J pipe and it lined up properly. I'm sure I'll get it ironed out today.

 

Should the core sit completely vertical once it's completely in place?

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Not pure vertical, but almost.

 

The coldside pipe is tight to the overflow. But better than touching the motor. Did you trim any metal where the pipes come under the bumper? If not that might be why you are having the slight alignment issue. If you did, try loosening the J pipe and moving it. Or you could always use the included hump hose coupler instead of the standard one at the battery. That will give you some flex if you can't get it lined up.

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I think there is a slight amount of turbo spool noise. I think it is more like an echo in the pipe. My SpecB has so much NVH already that there is no difference. I think I can hear it in the 5EAT, but the wife says she hears nothing new, so all is good.

 

 

It only sounds "LOUDER" when I'm pushing it/higher boost. Normal driving sounds fine. Might be the "2nd the RacerX FMIC w/ stock intake box". :lol:

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Second, to fit with the OEM airbox. I had to trim off the tabs on the side of the box that held the two hoses and the MAF wires. They are all now supported by the piping. Second, I had to trim a little metal (1/2") off the front of the car to give the pipe a little extra rotation. Third, I had to be very careful putting the front piece of the airbox in (it is tight). Fourth, I had to take some time and patience to get the bottom bolt that secures the airbox tightened down. The pipe is covering it. Thats it. The only FMIC to use the OEM airbox. The car could come from the factory this way.

 

Does the pipe need to be removed to screw the stock intake box to the car? Or can you access it w/ the pipes there?

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I don't think the pipe would go in with the airbox in place. It might. I never tried. With the right tools and some patience it all worked out. I was able to start the bolt by hand, then tighten it down with a ratchet/extension/swivel/socket.

 

I installed the airbox with the pipe in place. Thats why you have to be careful putting it back in. If you force it the wrong direction you will break it (ask me how I know, I had a spare airbox, lol).

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