scoobydoobie Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 There are some videos by LALGT early in this thread that show what needs to be cut. I don't have any close up pics of what I cut, but maybe these will help a bit: http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7646/16214957.jpg http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8443/44055231.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grmorrow04 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Am I going to have to change to a different spring in my GFB BOV? M Sprank, I saw something about that you changed your spring when going to this FMIC last year due to a pop... does the turbo/peak boost have any play in this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005hondakilla Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Did you cut the nnub off the hot side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Am I going to have to change to a different spring in my GFB BOV? M Sprank, I saw something about that you changed your spring when going to this FMIC last year due to a pop... does the turbo/peak boost have any play in this? Depends. If using the GFB in full recirc mode than you need the lighter spring. Car will not idle without it. If using the GFB in 50/50 (my recommendation) or VTA the heavier spring (what it came with) is what you need. Did you cut the nnub off the hot side? Yes, you may very well need to trim a good inch off the "nub". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 (minus the bead on the ends) That's the reason that I asked. I'd like to have a full matching set as opposed to my hack-job. Not a big deal but I figure if it pops, this is where it's gonna happen. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 That's the reason that I asked. I'd like to have a full matching set as opposed to my hack-job. Not a big deal but I figure if it pops, this is where it's gonna happen. Also interested in buying just the v.3 cold side pipe with beads. PM'd itsme earlier and he said he'd let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 So far pipes are not available separately. Orders are placed at the factory for "kits". There is no inventory. It is sold out. Newest GB needs 10 buyers before order is placed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005hondakilla Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Scoobydoobie does your cold side piping sit lower then your towhook? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmafod Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I realized I never posted pics of my outback install. If these pics don't show, please hit refresh or F5, or they are also here: http://absurdflow.com/obxt.html Dead nuts centered: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic1.jpg '05 outback bumper beam...upside down in this pic. The smaller section on top needs to be removed. About 15 min with an angle grinder with cutoff wheel. http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic2.jpg Beam after cut and the same size as a legacy beam: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic3.jpg I cut off a lot of metal and plastic, some can be seen here. Not difficult to do. http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic4.jpg To reuse the stock airbox, cut off the little hose clip things. I used a standard die grinder with a crosshatch steel bit: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic5.jpg Hotside pipe showing why you need to remove the hose clip things from the airbox lid. Other than that, lots of room: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic6.jpg I cut/rolled my coldside pipe before hand, using the included hump hose & clamps...awesome. http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic7.jpg This is why itsme sent us all a replacement stainless buttonhead screw: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic8.jpg Fuzzy engine bay pic: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic9.jpg The only small issue is the BOV flange could be rotated slightly so the OEM hose isn't as kinked, but it still works fine and could be much worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 I sold out of FMICs so I'm started a new GB http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-low-cost-racer-x-itsme-fmic-v-3-05-09-lgt-146360.html The new kit is V.3 and includes improvements like new pipe for better STi fitments, new timing cover bolt for more clearance, and a new two piece cold side pipe for easier installs and battery removal. I also got Mike on board to give a discount on Walbro fuel pump and Pre-modded drop-in fuel pump assembly to everyone that buys the new kit or have bought my kit in the pass. I know alot of people wanted fuel pumps in the pass and I was not able to get them. But, Mike got the line on them and has great prices. Infamous1 is now offering a discounts on tunes with my FMIC and I have lowered the price on my FMIC a bit. You can save about $100 if you buy the package. So follow the like above for more info. Bryan Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Why is the hot side piping smaller diameter than the cold side piping? Is there theory behind it or is there just less space for routing the piping on the hot side? I'm sorry if its already been covered in pages 1 through 43... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 Why is the hot side piping smaller diameter than the cold side piping? Is there theory behind it or is there just less space for routing the piping on the hot side? I'm sorry if its already been covered in pages 1 through 43... It's just how I stepped up the pipe size. Sti style turbo outlets are alittle under 2". So I started at 2" and worked my way up from there. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted December 31, 2010 Author Share Posted December 31, 2010 Racer X V.3 FMIC is in stock and ready to ship. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-racer-x-v-3-fmic-new-lower-price-699-151034.html Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted January 1, 2011 Share Posted January 1, 2011 http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic5.jpg Make sure its not too sandwiched in there. You dont want the cover to smash the pipe into the airbox. My mounts were a bit shot before I replaced them and it was an issue. Fuzzy engine bay pic: http://absurdflow.com/obxt/obxtfmic9.jpg I was trying to figure out why that looked so wierd to me... Im running an sti turbo DOOMASS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotsugg Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I recall someone else having this same issue but I can’t remember who or what page it was on. I have the new V.3 kit. Cold side pipe, from the core. To get it into the motor compartment I have to push it very hard towards the front of the car and when it finally goes in , it rests firmly on the timing cover (where the bolt was), with no space at all. The pipe seems to be about ½” to ¾” too long/wide. Anyone else experience this same issue? Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Mine touched the timing cover and the bolt was eating its way through the pipe. To remedy this, I removed the bolt and installed group N motor and trans mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotsugg Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 I went thru all 43 pages and pictures again. I really feel like mine is a tighter fit then the ones I saw. Thanks for the info, I'll keep messing with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Yours looks tight. Might need to remove a small amount of metal from the car where the pipe turns to go under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotsugg Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 It's strange. I just looked at it again and it's not hitting anything up front. It's actually too far back toward the motor. I'll have to take it a part this weekend to figure it out. Here's what I removed from the bottom of the core support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotsugg Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 and the pieces I cut off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Anybody know the size/threading of the nuts needed to connect the BOV using the oem bolts? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 I am gonna take a wild guess and say 10x1.25, or 8x1.25. Been a while. None of the cars here have OEM bolts in the BPV anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Any reason you didn't reuse the oem bolts? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 PS... hows this for an intercooler leak? Yes, that is an actual gap there. Stumbling idle and limited boost. FMIC is going on this weekend, if not sooner. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Aesthetics. We use black bolts and nuts here. Bonus points for style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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