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Yet another HID Kit Review: APEXCONE Raptor V2


alaskajoel

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is it for the stereo or the hids? i mean is this what harness you orderer with the HID's is for?

 

Yes - you can order one from DDM, or you can make one yourself for about half the price. Like Lucas said, it wires the HIDs such that they draw power directly from the battery.

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its only an extra $15 dollars. maybe ill just order it whenever i get around to doin the hid install.

 

Yah i read somewhere it was for direct power from the battery and that it only takes the turn on input from your switches, but i wasn't sure if they were talking about an aftermarket stereo or the HIDs, alright thanks for the input. Maybe ill just order the hids and if i ever have a problem ill get the wire harness later on.

 

ps. anyone got a comparison of the 35w vs the 55w kits?

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So, with the hardness, would the "Auto-off" function act differently? Sorry if this is a stupid question; electronics wasn't listed in my transcript.

 

 

No. The lights get power directly from the battery via a higher gauge wire, assuring that you get clean power that won't have any chance of overheating and/or melting anything. A relay is basically a switch and controls the on/off nature of power to the ballasts. This relay gets the on/off signal from the factory headlight wiring, so when the lights turn on the relay clicks on and the lights are able to draw power directly from the battery. At least this is how I've always been lead to believe they work.

 

On a more personal note, my HID's shipped out yesterday and are due the middle of next week.

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After purchasing my 5th (!!!) set of headlights in the past two years yesterday, i got fed up, and just ordered the 55w low beam kit (6k). Hard to justify NOT when i'm spending $100 a year in silverstars anyway. Even the long life bulbs lasted only 10 months.

 

Thanks for posting this.

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Just finished installing the HID kit and all worked great except for the CEL and the Cruise light flashing. This was the first time I disconnected the DRL connector so I don't know if that's the problem. I went for a drive and the lights look fantastic. 55W 6k is white with some blue tint to it. I will post pics up soon. Now, I need to figure out what the deal is with the CEL/ Cruise light. Note: I did use my high beams and the low beams stayed on too. Any help would be appreciated.
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Here's where I mounted the ballast on the passenger side.

 

DSC03005.JPG.208ec6f50731303b11c67f028753ef8b.JPG

 

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Driver's side ballast.

 

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I also used some adhesive tape for the ballasts. This stuff is good for some sticky action.. Highly recommend using zip-ties as well or a fabricated bracket.

 

DSC03019.JPG.8fbd452f1bd56d2082bfa04fb8e1684c.JPG

 

As you can see the pictures taken with my girlie camera makes the 55W 6K HIDs look very white. Trust me, they have a blue tint, but not Fast and Furious blue.

 

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Update: HID lows and fogs still running strong as ever and I love them for my LGT.

 

Just finally got around to installing the kits on my 93 suburban and 99 mazda last night. Suburban kit did not fire at first. Called tech support, which is fantastic I must say, and he quickly said i must have had "reversed polarity" and all I needed to do was disconnect the clip from the ballast, flip it 180' and it should fire instantly. I thought he was full of it and had a dead kit right out of the box, but, Viola', it worked! Now I need to figure out how to aim the lights on the suburban, they are way to hi for me to follow another car :))). Mazda install took all of 20 minutes, tons of room, no battery to move. Just plug and play. Gone are the old, super-dim stockers on both vehicles, 5K 55W for both vehicles. However, the intensity that comes from the Subie "projector" set-up is much greater than using these kits in a traditional style lens vehicle.

 

FYI: these cars took a 9006 and 9003 respectively, which DDM had in stock when I ordered, they shipped out 5 days after I ordered them, arrived in 2 days, UPS ground shipping. Ballast's are different for these kits and so was the packaging. A buff aluminum finish, slightly lighter weight, sticker to label rather than the nice polished mirror finish and laser engraving. When I called for tech support I was told these are the exact same ballasts as my Subie kits, (same internals) and all would function the same. We'll see.... doesn't seem to be the same quality as Subie kit........

 

DDM is extremely busy and I tried every trick in the book to get the guy to put my order on top of the ship list, bribery didn't work, even brown nosing about how much I loved my Subie kit. He said I would ship once all previous orders had been processed.

 

I see it as they are very busy because they have a rockin' product and word has gotten out. Definitely worth the wait from order to ship time. **(No harnesses used in any of my installs)** Now to order a kit for my Suzuki LTR450 ATV :))) I love it!

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Cleared the CEL... Yay!! I just remembered i busted the housing that holds the retaining spring for the light bulb. That was not cool. Zip-tie is holding it down nicely. I wonder if I can buy the housing instead of the whole headlight assembly?
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I'm not an expert on this by any means but I believe that's your problem right there. Again, it'd be a safe idea to search the forums again for the HID install just in case I'm getting this wrong but for my car, I pulled out the blue wire with black stripes to disable the DRLs. Other people just cut the wire but I spent the extra 10-15 min or so to take the wire itself out of the plug so just in case I needed to revert the car to completely stock form, I could just put the wire back in.

 

edit: Apparently the blue/black wire thing doesn't apply to the 05-06MY. Did you use this guide to disable your DRLs? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2117&highlight=drl+disable

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I've had the V2 35w Raptors with no harness for about three months and I haven't had a single issue even when I leave my headlights on before starting my car. Here is some good FYI on the kit.

 

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1127948

 

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=17976034&postcount=22

 

Aren't most Bimmer guys typically grumpy about everything anyway?

 

+1 I've been around Bimmer enthusiasts for many years and I can see how they get a bad rep.

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no i disconnected the white plug which did disable my daytime running lights but it than disabled my power windows from working too

 

 

06' LGT, I simply unplugged the entire white clip and left it dangling and it disabled my DRL and my windows are still going great after 2 months. I'm not sure that helps you diagnose your window issue but I read that the DRL's should be disconnected prior to running the HID upgrade.

 

Good luck on the diagnosis.

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no i disconnected the white plug which did disable my daytime running lights but it than disabled my power windows from working too

 

^ That's not right - you must have crossed something, somewhere.

 

Unplugging the DRL module in the 2005 should not have any effects on any other of the vehicle's operating systems, including, specifically, the power windows.

 

Double check your work, and be sure you're using the correct walk-through (for the '05/'06).

 

Also, has your vehicle been modified prior to your ownership?

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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^ I tried searching the terms "DRL" and "window" as well as "DRL," "window," and "power," to no avail. :(

 

Even if there was one other singular case where this happened, it still should *not* have - there's something out-of-whack with your specific vehicle(s), given the sheer number of others here who have pulled this module, and have not seen the problem.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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