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Cooling fan stuck on?


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Well, here is the final outcome. I picked up my car today after dropping it off on Monday. The replaced the ECU and got another relay from another car since the guy said there were no more available in the country. On Monday the dealer called Subaru to see if I could drive the car with the fan on all the time, and they said no. They gave me the loaner. So in two days everything seems fixed and the car is running fine. It is so nice to have my manual low seat back.

 

 

The only problem is I left the spare keys right in plain site on Monday since I was sure they would change the ECU and would need the keys. I spoke to the manager on Monday when I picked up the loaner and I remined him the keys are in the car for reprogramming. So he called me at 4:30 today to tell me the car was ready but he needed my extra keys.............. I reminded him that the keys were in the car. When I got there at 5:30, he said the tech already had left and I would have to bring the keys back. So I thought I could save myself a trip, but guess not. OH well, that's my only complaint. Hope everything else goes well with the car.

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By the way, I forgot to tell you guys. After they changed my ECU the seatbelt chime is still off??????????? Why is that? I thought for sure if the ECU was changed, it would go back on. I mean after all they are re programming my keys........ :)
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By the way, I forgot to tell you guys. After they changed my ECU the seatbelt chime is still off??????????? Why is that? I thought for sure if the ECU was changed, it would go back on. I mean after all they are re programming my keys........ :)

 

I noticed that too. Mine ECU was replaced twice and the chime still didn't come back on.

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I noticed that too. Mine ECU was replaced twice and the chime still didn't come back on.

 

IIRC, the seatbelt chime is controlled by the body computer, not the ECU.. So, unless they pulled the negative cable (which they probably should as a precaution), then the chime doesn't get reset.

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  • 2 weeks later...
The only concern with having the fans stuck on is premature wear on the main fan motor. The way it's wired up, if the AC is on and the engine is cold, then both fans run at half speed. Also, once you're moving, the fans should slow. So, you're putting some extra wear on the fans. They are tough though, and should be able to withstand this for a while.
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Well, the ECU replacement is finally complete.. BTW, rev B ECU is so much smoother. almost like driving a different car. Power under 2500RPM seems better too.

 

And the best part is my car no longer sounds like it's getting ready for takeoff..

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Got a new ecu. Soo good to have the quiet car back. My car was built Dec/04. Just chiming in. Yes, I also noticed that the car pulls smoother now. So anyone annoyed by the fan noise should go to dealer and ask for new unit.
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Well, I was afraid my car had a problem since the fan was always running. I read all of these threads and aside from a few people it looks like an older firmware version of the ECU is the main culprit.

 

I will be unmarrying the AP this week and scheduling an appointement to have the ECU replaced.

 

Thanks for the great analysis, glad I finally got pissed off enough at hearing the fan run constantly to look for the cause.

 

Also, i have read several times that the new ECU makes the car run smoother. Anyone have any experience with smoother running or better acceleration with the AP stage 2 and the new ECU?

 

Walker

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I recently noticed my cooling fan won't go off either, even when it's cool outside. I had Subaru look at it, and they are ordering a new ECU for my car and replacing it on Friday. A few other little quirks I've had so far: the metal button of the parking brake lever rAtTlEs all the time... there's also a rattle in the driver's side door panel when I accelerate.
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...A few other little quirks I've had so far: the metal button of the parking brake lever rAtTlEs all the time... there's also a rattle in the driver's side door panel when I accelerate.

 

The p-brake handle rattle, from the button, is a dealer fix. :)

 

As for the rattle....are you absolutely certain that you've got nothing left in the door cubby? ;) I've sure you've already checked, but heck, just in-case. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Took the car into the delearship to have the fan checked out. Just as I thought they fought me on the ECU replacement at the service desk, so I snuck into the bay and spoke to the mechanic. He called tech support and they gave him the lowdown on the fan problem.

 

They told him to run the car to 205 F and make sure BOTH fans run in high speed at that temp with the AC off. If they do and the tech has checked the relays already then its the ECU. If the secondary fan does not come on high at that temp then continue testing, IE sending units relays etc... This is something the chip manufacturer requested that makes the ECU for Subaru, to help in analysis of the defective ECUs.

 

This test can be done at home albeit not as accurately as in the shop. Just let the car warm up at idle and see if the secondary fan kicks on high once the stat opens. The dealer will more than likely hook up the test computer to the diag port to monitor the actual temp, but you can get close at home.

 

Good luck!

 

Oh, new ECU on order for me. ;)

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Took the car into the delearship to have the fan checked out. Just as I thought they fought me on the ECU replacement at the service desk, so I snuck into the bay and spoke to the mechanic. He called tech support and they gave him the lowdown on the fan problem.

 

They told him to run the car to 205 F and make sure BOTH fans run in high speed at that temp with the AC off. If they do and the tech has checked the relays already then its the ECU. If the secondary fan does not come on high at that temp then continue testing, IE sending units relays etc... This is something the chip manufacturer requested that makes the ECU for Subaru, to help in analysis of the defective ECUs.

 

This test can be done at home albeit not as accurately as in the shop. Just let the car warm up at idle and see if the secondary fan kicks on high once the stat opens. The dealer will more than likely hook up the test computer to the diag port to monitor the actual temp, but you can get close at home.

 

Good luck!

 

Oh, new ECU on order for me. ;)

 

Actually, the failure mode of this rules out the fan relay almost immediately because the fans usually won't run with ignition on but engine off. Therefore, the fan relay isn't sticking (which you can check by tapping the main relay). Once the engine is running, the main fan comes on high regardless of engine temperature. Also, the sub fan relay is switched to parallel mode when the AC is turned on, so it has to be a fault in the ECM (most likely a malfunctioning FET or BJT on the low-side drive). It seems, though, that they are replacing the relay as a precaution.

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Not sure if this is the same symptom.

 

Went out yesterday evening. Temp outside here in Toronto was about 23C. Had the Sun room open, both front windows down. A/C was off, but coming through the vents was hot air for about 3 - 5 minutes of my drive. I put on the A/C for about 15 sec and turned it off and the air from the vents stopped coming through.

 

I've noticed this a few times, but not paid attention to it. I could not hear the fan running like I do when I first turn on the A/C when it was 30+C when you get in the car.

 

Is this the same thing? If not, anyone had a similar experience?

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Well.....another member to the fan club.

 

Mine has been on pretty steady for about a week now. I called Don Docksteader service in Coquitlam and they are aware of the problem. They have already replaced 1 ECU that he was aware of.

 

I was told to bring the car in today and they have to run the test to confirm that it is the known problem. I was told that the ECU is a $1600CDN part and they're not supposed to replace them without doing the required testing.

 

I used the AP to revert back to stock last night. I was worried that by doing this, my fan problem would disappear. I was never happier to hear the drone of the fan when I started the car this morning. :)

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Count me in to the fan club as well, I have an apointment for Tuesday to get my cars fan checked at Bill Rapp Subaru in Syracuse. Anybody have any feed back on there service department? Noticed the fan two days ago. I was going to complain about the stuttering issue but never got around to it. Hopefully this will kill two birds with one stone. For now, I'll just pull the fuse.
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Actually, the failure mode of this rules out the fan relay almost immediately because the fans usually won't run with ignition on but engine off. Therefore, the fan relay isn't sticking (which you can check by tapping the main relay). Once the engine is running, the main fan comes on high regardless of engine temperature. Also, the sub fan relay is switched to parallel mode when the AC is turned on, so it has to be a fault in the ECM (most likely a malfunctioning FET or BJT on the low-side drive). It seems, though, that they are replacing the relay as a precaution.

 

I knew this as well from my own in house testing. The tech I worked with told me this is what subaru will use as their qualification for a new ECU. They do throw in new relays too just to be safe.

 

No call back from the dealer yet on when the ECU is going to arrive. :(

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Mine went into the local Subaru dealer (Metric Subaru of Northport) for the fan problem as well as the car's 15k tune up.

 

The mx manager said there's only 1 spare ecu in the country right now. They were all like it was typical Subaru supply chain issues.

 

My car is down for the weekend; they gave me an '06 Forrester as a loaner. Not bad, but not my sports car either:(

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Actually the water in passenger compartment is a separate unrelated issue. The water in the passenger floor is from a blocked water release tube from the AC. I had the fan stuck on issue and then a few months later the blocked AC tube. I don't think these are related or caused by the water damaging the ECU.
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ECU is located under the carpet in the front passenger footwell.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10682

 

Here is a photograph from a WRX, I believe it is close to where it is in the LGT. Hmm, I could see some water getting back behind that plate with the HVAC right above it.

 

http://www.gruppe-s.com/Subaru/subpackage/Step3.jpg

 

Wondering if water backed up from the plugged AC drain line could leak from certain spots in the HVAC area under the glove box could make it from the edge of the plate/get behind it without enough coming out to soak the passenger carpet first.

 

Anybody else have both problems?

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Dropped off my car to the dealer this morning, shure enuff, when I pulled in the fan was off! Damn it! I can hear it now, "Sorry we coldn't reproduce the problem." Oh well, I needed an inspection done anyway. Anybody else had the fan problem come and go?

BTW my footwells are dry!

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