Mongo Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Cheers to you Sublo! I got frustrated and yanked the wheel off. Hey who is the hottie in your avatar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Hey who is the hottie in your avatar? :lol::lol: I always thought that was a dude! The title "transformer" below it doesn't really help. :lol::lol: The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubLo Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 Cheers to you Sublo! I got frustrated and yanked the wheel off. Hey who is the hottie in your avatar? That's Spitzer's girl from the GGW video... What a dumbass (for getting busted) ________________________________________________ [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1980"]'05 BSM OBXT Row-your-own, W.I.P. :rolleyes:[/URL] [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1242"]'06 Shrek B # 64 - The car the wife loved to hate :( Sold...[/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo Posted April 26, 2008 Share Posted April 26, 2008 Ha, you had me worried Underdog!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggtnut Posted April 27, 2008 Share Posted April 27, 2008 just finished mine. Took my time, took off the wheels and it took me ~3-4 hrs. I also painted my calipers while I was at it. The only thing i stumbled on was torquing the AVO end links. My tork wrench never clicked and I noticed that the bolt would spin (like it should) but didn't have anything on the other side to get another wrench in to stop it from spinning and getting it properly torqued down. Ben (2014 Outback SAP w/ eyesite, 2014 Tribeca Limited, 2006 LGT limited sedan) Subaru Ambassador PNW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Ok, so if the car is lowered, I should install the AVO Endlinks as short as they come? Any resolution on this? My car is lowered on swifts and I want to add the JDM RSB, avo solid endlinks, and rsb reinforcement brackets. Link to AVO eShop Will the solid 50mm (Front) and 70mm (Rear) links be a good choice? Also, do they come with nuts & bolts for mounting, or do you have to supply your own hardware? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 Any resolution on this? My car is lowered on swifts and I want to add the JDM RSB, avo solid endlinks, and rsb reinforcement brackets. Link to AVO eShop Will the solid 50mm (Front) and 70mm (Rear) links be a good choice? Also, do they come with nuts & bolts for mounting, or do you have to supply your own hardware? Not sure what resolution you were looking for with your question. The AVO end links come with everything you need. Just take your old ones off, and put the AVO replacements on. Definitely go with the reinforcement brackets, even if you're not going to upgrade your rear bar. Those rear stock mounts deflect very easily. Not even sure how they keep the stock bar in place. SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Not sure what resolution you were looking for with your question. The AVO end links come with everything you need. Just take your old ones off, and put the AVO replacements on. Definitely go with the reinforcement brackets, even if you're not going to upgrade your rear bar. Those rear stock mounts deflect very easily. Not even sure how they keep the stock bar in place. SBT The solid endlinks on the page I linked to don't have the threaded spindle like the stock or typical adjustable endlinks. I was wondering if the solid endlinks come with nuts & bolts. Also, since the length of the endlink seems to correlate to the drop, I was wondering if the 50mm and 70mm lengths of he solid endlinks would be a good match to my Swifts. Already got the brackets...picked up them up used for $45! The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 The solid endlinks on the page I linked to don't have the threaded spindle like the stock or typical adjustable endlinks. I was wondering if the solid endlinks come with nuts & bolts. Also, since the length of the endlink seems to correlate to the drop, I was wondering if the 50mm and 70mm lengths of he solid endlinks would be a good match to my Swifts. Already got the brackets...picked up them up used for $45! My apologies - I opened up the link and didn't even see the solid endlinks, only the ones that I purchased previously and posted up when I initially started this thread. So, I was answering based on my tunnel vision towards the other endlinks. So to answer the question about hardware w/the solid links - I really don't know. I would presume so since you can't really reuse anything from the stock links, but would suggest PM'ing Paul Hansen or Rallitek and asking the question. For those with lowered suspensions, what are you all using? SBT - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator GT Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I'm using the adj rear links from AVO on my AVO RSB. I've got pinks on my Bils. "If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed." - T. Jefferson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 Please help. I am hoping one of you can help me. I purchased a full kit and the AVO Adjustable rear endlinks. My car isn't lowered. I purchased them from Rallitek and it was all they had. Keep in mind I have a 2.5i so my setup is slightly different. Rallitek hasn't made HD endlinks so the only thing I could get was the AVOs. On to my question(s). They maybe stupid to some but I have to ask for my knowledge:1.) How do you adjust the endlinks?2.) Once adjusted how do you lock or tighten them down?3.) Because basically there are 3 pieces to the endlink right? The two bolt pieces which are screwed into a center female threaded long nut looking thing. If you loosen the two bolt ends to increase the length, when you get it to the right length the bolt ends would be able to spin. When you install the endlink does it need to be fixed in place to where the bolt ends won't spin or is it ok to spin? Please answer because I am attempting the install this weekend and need the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Why are you changing the endlinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 The stock endlinks are very flexible and somewhat defeat the purpose of a stiffer swaybar. I just installed the AVO rear endlinks today. You'll need two 17 mm open wrenches. Adjust the ends to the length you want (make sure they are the same length right and left). Then stabilize the center section with one of the 17 mm wrenches while you tighten the end nuts with the other wrench. The length is then set and the whole thing is tight. Alternatively, you can wait until the endlink is on the car before tightening it down, but it seemed easer to do it on the bench. Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Especially with my 2.5i my Rallitek RSB is definitely beefier. Installed the AVO RSB Reinforcment mount. Took some ass to get the frame bolts out. But got the rear all installed today. About 3 hours by myself. Endlinks: Subietonic helped me with my confusion on the endlinks. Yeah, like you said the bench tighting made things much easier. 7 revolutions on the adjusting nut was as far as I felt comfortable going. One thing I must state: Replace the nuts on the AVO endlinks that mount to the suspension arm and the sway bar. The nuts that come with the endlinks are about 1/8" thick and 17mm. I am going to the hardware store tomorrow to pick up nylon lock nuts that are about 1/4" thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_J Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Great write-up. Do you need a breaker bar to pull the 19mm frame bolts out to install the reinforcement brackets? Wow 3 hours - some people did it in less than 1 hour maybe they have power tools or what not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsquish Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I wished I had a breaker bar when I took them out, or a 'cheater bar'. I ended up using a little PB Blaster then used never-seez (aka "ever-smear) just in case...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I was very meticulous with the install. Plus you have to leave all the bolts loose when installing the RSB Reinforcement mounts, tighten down the bushing bolts first then the frame bolts. Took me a little bit to figure that one out or else they won't line up exactly right. Impact wrench my friends. Its a life saver on those frame bolts. Cheater bar will work but Impact was definitely quicker. Especially since once was rusted in place. Live near the coast so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Especially with my 2.5i my Rallitek RSB is definitely beefier. Installed the AVO RSB Reinforcment mount. Took some ass to get the frame bolts out. But got the rear all installed today. About 3 hours by myself. Endlinks: Subietonic helped me with my confusion on the endlinks. Yeah, like you said the bench tighting made things much easier. 7 revolutions on the adjusting nut was as far as I felt comfortable going. One thing I must state: Replace the nuts on the AVO endlinks that mount to the suspension arm and the sway bar. The nuts that come with the endlinks are about 1/8" thick and 17mm. I am going to the hardware store tomorrow to pick up nylon lock nuts that are about 1/4" thick. Careful with the nylock nuts... I bought some generic ones from Home Depot for my old front MSI endlinks. They weren't rated and the bolts pulled through the nuts. Need to make sure you are using rated hardware for this application. There's quite a bit of force on the endlinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Yeah you are looking for grade 8. I go to fastener companies to get my hardware. You typically can't find large enough metric fine thread stuff at home depot or lowes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_J Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 What about new locknuts for the swaybar bushing u-clamps? The service manual calls for new self-locking nuts. Is that a 12mm? Yeah I live a few miles from the Pacific but the 19mm frame bolts appear to be one of the few parts not rusted-out yet. Got a long torque wrench and plastic pipe to wrap it... and deep 19mm socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 NEVER use a torque to untighten / loosen bolts. You degrade and shorten the life of the torque wrench. Just a word of advice. There are no locknuts on my swaybar bushing u-clamps. I have bolts that go back in. Use some thread sealant if you want extra insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_J Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Should have listened to you. I thought I could cheat this one time with the heavy torque wrench and pipe. The tension snapped the steel ratchet extension piece like a hot knife via butter. No way that bolt is getting loose without an impact wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 I broke two 3/8" extensions before switching to 1/2" sockets. I do think I used my torque wrench to do it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2Otx Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yeah I remember those frame bolts were the biggest PITA. Used my Dewalt Impact wrench and a 19mm 1/2" socket to get them off. I used my Craftsman 1/2" Long Torque Wrench, 1/2" to 3/8" adapter + 3/8" to 1/2" adapter (I didn't have an extension on hand so had to make due), and the 19mm socket to torque down. 129 ft.lbs. is a ton of a$$, especially when you are laying underneath the car. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BUST YOUR NUCKLES!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATSFYD Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 Ok so I will put on my wish list "upgrade RSB"... **There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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