phoenix96 Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Yep, definitely noticable. The as-delivered understeer was just plain scary, and moving from 15 to 16 made it manageable. Recommended if you can get the bar cheap ( No more than $50)... I replaced the stock 16mm in my LGT with a 20mm so I've got the 16mm sitting in my garage. I've been considering putting it in the Outback but wasn't sure if it would be worth the effort. phoenix96 2006 Legacy GT Ltd · 2011 Outback 3.6R Ltd · 1992 SVX 2006 Outback 3.0R VDC · 2009 Forester 2.5X 2002 Outback VDC · 1996 Outback 2.5L · 1986 GL-10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Free is definitely worth it... 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Thanks for the help. Installed my Christmas present today and this thread was very helpfull. Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 I installed the AVO RSB and brackets today. The install went quite well. It certainly helps to remove the mufflers and wheels. The only hiccup was with the left side bracket. As you tighten it down, it wants to rotate away from the stock bracket. Difficult to torque down and keep it aligned. I'd reccomend temporarily returning the boltsto their proper place and tighten them down before the final tightening of the bolt that holds the bracket in place. Oh, another tip. If you have a hard time getting the endlink bolt into the upper of the two swaybar holes (assuming you want the less aggressive position) it helps to jack up the hub (put jack under the lower end of the shock). That gets the endlink bolt to line up with the rsb hole. Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoopMan Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 I got my JDM rsb yesterday, and took advantage of the great weather to put it on. Did it EXACTLY as per subietonic's excellent instructions, using ramps. No problems at all, took me 1 hour 20 minutes of wrench time. Did not have to remove the cans, it took me about 30 seconds to figure out how to get the rsb in or out. What slowed me down was the upper link bolts, as my crappy old sears ratchet handle was pretty worn. I recommend using a fine tooth 3/8" drive handle for this, because there is not much angle to turn the handle. To me the change in driving characteristics is subtle, but definitely noticeable. I guess I need to toss it around a bit more. Too bad I have to work today. Next mod is JDM spec b Bilstein struts and springs, on their way from Japan. Can't wait! Thanks Subietonic for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spdGT Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I'm in the process of installing the JDM RSB and I ran into a problem. I got the new bar into position and went to put the stock bushings back on. Obviously, they don't fit. I ordered the bar from Rallitek and they didn't send new bushings. I might be able to force the stock bushings into place with the bracket over them, but I don't think that will be ideal. I need to get everything put back together today. Is it possible to pick up new bushings at an auto parts or hardware store? Anybody have any suggestions? Will it be bad to drive the car without the swaybar and endlinks, in case I have to order new bushings? I really don't want to put the old swaybar back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewScooby Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Put the stocker back on or leave it off until Rallitek sends you the right bushings. If you leave the bar off, just dont corner hard and you should be fine. The stock bar is 16MM so I don't think you can reuse the old bushings. Good luck, BTW Welcome to the site. I'm over in Bloominton/Normal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I'd put the stock bar back on until you get the new bushings. Without the bar I suspect you'll have HEAVY understeer which could be a problem in an emergency (heavy braking with no ability to turn the car). I guess it could be an educational experience to see what the effect of no rear bar is but be very careful. I definitely wouldn't use the smaller stock bushings since they will tend to not allow the bar to rotate freely. This will transfer the bar's torque to the brackets which could be enough to break them. It happened to me on another car where the dealer, while replacing the sway bar hold down bracket, replaced my 22mm bushings with the stock 19mm bushings. The torque transfer cracked the car's sub frame. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spdGT Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 I just put the original one back on. I never tried driving without it. The rear of the car feels a little more responsive now, but I'm sure I'm just imagining that. Hopefully Rallitek will take care of this and send me the bushings. It sucks that I spend a good part of the day trying to put the new bar on. It shouldn't take me too long to get the new one on when I get the bushings since I have plenty of experience now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmarko Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Just got the rear COBB sway in today (finally after it sitting in my shed for months). It was straight forward using this walkthrough, and wasn't difficult at all. Took about 90 mins to do. Made a significant difference IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csquared Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 I just installed the JDM rear bar (kept the stock endlinks) this weekend per subietonic's directions. What took the longest was figuring out how to get the old bar out from under the car. I had to re-read through the followup posts and what worked perfectly was rotating the bar 180 degrees like a couple other people said. After that, it came out easy as pie. I wish I tried that first! Did the reverse to get the new bar in, start out 180 degrees, angle bar in, and rotate 180 back down to line up with endlinks. Maybe subietonic can put that in his directions to help others following them step by step. Great directions otherwise, I went the ramps + pb-blast exhaust hanger method too and that worked fast and easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy612 Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 does anyone know if the JDM bar will work with the autospeed CBE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsquish Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 I finally received my JDM RSB and AVO mounts. I would agree that getting the endlinks off is the hardest part. After about 30 min of trying to get the bar out I gave in and took a tire off, after that it slipped right out. How in the heck did some of you rotate the bar 180 degrees? I took the cans off the mounts, but with no luck. I can see though I will be replacing the JDM with something stiffer soon or later....... ________ MOTORCYCLE TIRES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 RSB installation NIGHTMARE! CRAP! OK, did I read the instructions wrong? I took the mufflers off their hangers and was working the original sway bar out when all of a sudden, BANG! Everything from the Y back came crashing down! The exhaust broke right at the weld of the Y. Sure made replacing the sway bar a breeze though! :lol: So, were you supposed to only unhook one can at a time or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Any sign of existing leaks at the Y joint? Looks like the weld was pretty much broken seeing how it's already mostly rusted. Should be inexpensive to have a muffler shop weld it back together if finances don't allow for a new cat back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 That sucks. Even after disconnecting the muffler cans, there's a good amount of support for the exhaust. There must have been some weakening in the joint, though that would be surprising and could be warrantable. The good news is you have a better handling LGT (and it must sound awesome). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 No existing leaks that I could tell. It does sound pretty sweet! I wasn't sure I'd like it but I do! :lol: I'm a bit scared of taking it to the dealership to ask about waranty work since I did this install myself. I guess I'll take it to a muffler shop first and see how much that would cost. No budget for a catback at this time unfortunately. I've attached a couple more pics. Hope you're all getting a good laugh out of this. I'm getting to the point that I can at least smile. Though that may go away quickly if the wife finds out or until I get the bill for a fix. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Oh yeah, the handling isn't TOTALLY different. Enough to tell a difference and a very nice change. This mod is definitely worth the money. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Just put the cans back on the hangers (disconnected from the exhaust) and call it good! Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Just put the cans back on the hangers (disconnected from the exhaust) and call it good! That's what I've done. I don't think it will pass the wife test though! :lol: I guess I know how a Perrin cat back would sound now (or the hogzaust ). Not too bad actually. I drove it on the freeway a bit last night and I didn't notice it at all. On the surface streets I had to put the windows down a bit so I could hear the rumble. NICE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DukeTrout Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 That's what I've done. I don't think it will pass the wife test though! :lol: I guess I know how a Perrin cat back would sound now (or the hogzaust ). Not too bad actually. I drove it on the freeway a bit last night and I didn't notice it at all. On the surface streets I had to put the windows down a bit so I could hear the rumble. NICE! I've got hawgzaust stage 1, and it's really quite subtle. Just a little extra rumble down low. I've gotten so used to it, that it might be time to add another washer... Ich bin echt viel netter, wenn ich nuechtern bin. Echt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atc5 Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 I installed my Perrin 22mm RSB yesterday (crazy to think that in MA in the middle of winter it was nice enough to do it). The one thing that helped get the Perrin bar in was to remove the exhaust hangers like everyone else has said, wrap my leg around the top of the muffler and just pull down. All that force of pulling the muffler down gives PLENTY of room to slide the old bar out and the new bar in. All totalled an easy install....now I just need to put miles on the car and get a feel for it's handling characteristics again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Be careful unhooking the mufflers. See my earlier posts... :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smack Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 so whats the better choice for a rear sway in everyones oppinion? this(which seems like it is a very good choice from reading this) or cobbs(havent heard much)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRegvall Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 so whats the better choice for a rear sway in everyones oppinion? this(which seems like it is a very good choice from reading this) or cobbs(havent heard much)? Everyone seems to have a different favorite. My favorite is the AVO 20mm along with the AVO reinforcement brackets (which strangely enough is the one I installed). This works well with the stock front bar (and springs/dampers) and makes for a really balanced handling street car. Other bars might be more useful for specific purposes like autoX or if you want more understeer left in. I'm not sure I've read a thread where people have described the handling result from their particular bars (Cusco, Cobb, Perrin, etc) and other suspension changes (springs, dampers, caster/camber adjustments) if any. I'm curious how many have been installed without other mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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