Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and DW750s

[Infamous1]

No never clocked it. Why do you ask?

After msprank clocked his turbo he lost boost. I think because the slight change in the WG angle, but you never know.

[Infamous1]

That log is with the OTS wastegate. We found that by shortening it all the way we got the best response and spool. That is with the arm almost as short as possible.

 

Right, but what he is saying though is that even at his lower boost he is moving the same amount of air.

[Ridgeracer]

Here is one to start. I am holding 20psi at 6500rpm. Sea level, 68deg F. I will dig up more for reference.

 

Your MBT is so strong with E85. I only can run 12 deg at peak torque max boost of 21psi on 93oct.

[Infamous1]

Your MBT is so strong with E85. I only can run 12 deg at peak torque max boost of 21psi on 93oct.

Not to mention the 07+ LGTs run much lower ignition timing as well.

[LittleBlueGT]

LBGT, I assume you already saw, you could order that 8cm hotside from FP if their website reflects their inventory. Not a bad price considering they'll machine it to fit your 68HTA's TD05 turbine wheel. Then you swap it yourself or have a local shop do it. I've been there several times recently and their service has been incredible, and I would be very surprised if they couldn't do it. Talking with them on the phone gets the best results IMO.

 

 

The hotside is very easy to take off. In fact I had it off last week to re-weld my EWG to the DP (was off a little going from AVO380 hotside to this one).

 

I am thinking about it, but I first want to get very similiar response as others are getting. Their has to be a reason for it. I know every set-up is unique, but not this unique.

[LittleBlueGT]

After msprank clocked his turbo he lost boost. I think because the slight change in the WG angle, but you never know.

 

I can see that. But running EWG means it doesn't really matter.

 

FWIW my turbo leaks a small amount up through the IWG rod. I can see some soot there. I know this isn't really affecting response or overall boost. As I showed before I could get more boost out of it, but no more airflow.

 

Come to think of it, this seems like it could be a BPV issue. If it is starting to leak, that would explain the higher boost, but same airflow. hmmmm.....

[ClimberDHexMods]

I can see that. But running EWG means it doesn't really matter.

 

FWIW my turbo leaks a small amount up through the IWG rod. I can see some soot there. I know this isn't really affecting response or overall boost. As I showed before I could get more boost out of it, but no more airflow.

 

Come to think of it, this seems like it could be a BPV issue. If it is starting to leak, that would explain the higher boost, but same airflow. hmmmm.....

 

Have you already ruled out the FMIC?

 

With a FMIC, your BOV spring pressure can actually be reduced, so it being at a stock level with FMIC means it's either fine or really messed up.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Please fix it quick My real reason for wanting you to get the 8cm hotside on it is so I can see your logs and determine whether to eventually get the 68HTA or the 73HTA (Green).

 

FWIW I don't mind making the arduous (5 minute) drive over to FP and buying it on your behalf (with your money ) in person if it gets it done any faster/cheaper so you can have it. I've worked with Brian a little recently, and I don't gripe about filling out the stupid customs forms

[LittleBlueGT]

Have you already ruled out the FMIC?

 

With a FMIC, your BOV spring pressure can actually be reduced, so it being at a stock level with FMIC means it's either fine or really messed up.

 

I have pressure tested the FMIC, and it was pretty good. (like almost everyone there are small leaks, but we are talking about leaks that would possibly add up to 0.003 g/s, so I will not worry about the loss of 0 whp)

 

The amount of airflow and boost I pushed through my TMIC and FMIC are pretty much identical, so I really don't think it is either.

 

If you think about it, a leak after the MAF would show up as more airflow, but less boost. So if I was flowing 350 g/s, but only had 17.5 psi up top I would know something is up.

[LittleBlueGT]

I will be experimenting with the BPV over the next couple of days. In the meantime I took a couple of pics, maybe this is part of the reason:

 

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/373/img0813a.jpg

 

 

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2315/img0812t.jpg

 

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8528/img0816kk.jpg

 

 

 

This is my coupler going from APS inlet to the comp cover on the turbo.

 

Looks like it could be a restriction, what do you guys think? Is this normal? I feel I may have to go at the block with a grinder and make that turbo fit closer to the block and have a freer flowing air path leading up to it.

[ClimberDHexMods]

I will be experimenting with the BPV over the next couple of days. In the meantime I took a couple of pics, maybe this is part of the reason:

 

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/373/img0813a.jpg

 

 

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2315/img0812t.jpg

 

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8528/img0816kk.jpg

 

 

 

This is my coupler going from APS inlet to the comp cover on the turbo.

 

Looks like it could be a restriction, what do you guys think? Is this normal? I feel I may have to go at the block with a grinder and make that turbo fit closer to the block and have a freer flowing air path leading up to it.

 

There are many APS inlet threads covering this issue. We have the same setup except different turbos (little difference there).

 

The formula is: loosen UP-header bolts.

Loosen UP-Turbine housing bolts. Loosen UP-mounting bracket bolts. Some people even remove one bracket or occasionally both.

Remove Intake Manifold.

Take off pass-side TGV and grind the threaded extrusion that holds one of the IM bolts. I took off several mm, and still retained the threads. Grind anything Else away that is in the way. This will not allow it to clear completely, but will help. Grind away the black intake manifold plastic that lines up vertically with the tgv metal you removed (like an external port match).

Put on Pass-side TGV bolts but keep loose.

Put on APS coupler, and rotate/re-angle it until. It kinks the least.

Clamp it to the turbo compressor lip and hard pipe. Now push the TGV as hard to the pass side as you can, and bolt down lightly.

Rotate turbo a hair such that compressor inlet looks a hair more towards the battery. Slowly tighten exhaust bolts. If tightening down a bracket bolt starts to swing the turbo inlet's coupler too far, consider leaving out that bracket. Tighten everything up slowly.

Coupler will not deform as much and air flow will prevail!

At least it worked for my install. I will try to find some pictures.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Exactly like this, a lot of work went into making it fit like this:

Notice how the threading touching the silicone has a lot less metal around it than the opposing side of the TGVs

 

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_u9ivxKMxaQw/SjcV9ZQAQEI/AAAAAAAAB4k/JaW005zXnKI/s640/SNC00328.jpg

 

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_u9ivxKMxaQw/SjcV-vNHG-I/AAAAAAAAB5E/HJdZXOnAkVg/s640/SNC00332.jpg

 

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_u9ivxKMxaQw/SjcV-2eYgfI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/oH3tYVi3dCI/s640/SNC00333.jpg

[LittleBlueGT]

I already did all of that grinding along time ago.

 

My DP and turbo just don't want to go closer to the block. I would have to grind something there to get it to go closer.

 

My UP is the GS one, so it has a flex section in it already helping things line-up.

 

I just wonder if it is worth all of the hassle, just to find out that I don't flow anymore air then before. I am just skeptical because I seem to be getting the same delta whp difference from a VF series turbo to the 68HTA as the majority of tuners.

 

I wonder if the guys that are running 21+ psi at red-line had their turbo ported? FP said that the porting would only help control boost at low levels, like below 16 psi, and since I am EWG it wouldn't matter at all anyways.

[ClimberDHexMods]

I already did all of that grinding along time ago.

 

My DP and turbo just don't want to go closer to the block. I would have to grind something there to get it to go closer.

 

My UP is the GS one, so it has a flex section in it already helping things line-up.

 

I just wonder if it is worth all of the hassle, just to find out that I don't flow anymore air then before. I am just skeptical because I seem to be getting the same delta whp difference from a VF series turbo to the 68HTA as the majority of tuners.

 

I wonder if the guys that are running 21+ psi at red-line had their turbo ported? FP said that the porting would only help control boost at low levels, like below 16 psi, and since I am EWG it wouldn't matter at all anyways.

 

I believe you can still streamline airflow through that coupler if you can play with it and especially with the hard pipe until you find a way to get it to sit properly. It looks like the end of the APS hard pipe is too close to the turbo, and needs to be pulled towards the front of your car. How much space do you have between the APS bracket and the bolt threading in the intake manifold? I have well over half an inch. Any less makes my coupler look more like yours. Perhaps just popping up the inlet pipe where the corner sits near the power steering pump will allow you to tug the hard pipe more towards the front of the car, allowing the coupler to decompress. Wouldn't need to mess with the coupler's worm gear clamps very much if at all. That's all I can think of. Easy and quick test, don't need to remove the intake manifold that way.

[LittleBlueGT]

I believe you can still streamline airflow through that coupler if you can play with it and especially with the hard pipe until you find a way to get it to sit properly. It looks like the end of the APS hard pipe is too close to the turbo, and needs to be pulled towards the front of your car. How much space do you have between the APS bracket and the bolt threading in the intake manifold? I have well over half an inch. Any less makes my coupler look more like yours. Perhaps just popping up the inlet pipe where the corner sits near the power steering pump will allow you to tug the hard pipe more towards the front of the car, allowing the coupler to decompress. Wouldn't need to mess with the coupler's worm gear clamps very much if at all. That's all I can think of. Easy and quick test, don't need to remove the intake manifold that way.

 

That is a good point.

 

I have about 1/2 inch or so, but not a full inch.

 

I will try that first, then if that doesn't help I will pull it all apart again. Getting fast at that now.

[ClimberDHexMods]

That is a good point.

 

I have about 1/2 inch or so, but not a full inch.

 

I will try that first, then if that doesn't help I will pull it all apart again. Getting fast at that now.

 

FWIW I rerouted the fuel and evap lines, and redid a few vacuum lines, and reran a little bit of the wiring harness so that I can pull off the intake manifold in 10 minutes now. I also have color-coded electrical tape so I know what hoses to disconnect next time, and more importantly which ones to leave alone. I recommend this kind of thing if you will be doing this a few more times during the life of the car.

 

I personally see it as mandatory to take off the intake manifold each time I install the turbo, and it's all because of that stupid offset turbo inlet coupler. At least that allows me to get the kind of coupler shape I'm after (by clamping it to the turbo before installing the turbo, so it stretches into the right shape. It's a total PIA though, I think about going rotated quite often. But I really enjoy turning wrenches so it's all in good fun

[05pearl]

I wonder if the guys that are running 21+ psi at red-line had their turbo ported? FP said that the porting would only help control boost at low levels, like below 16 psi, and since I am EWG it wouldn't matter at all anyways.

 

I was thinking the same thing, but just figured you were ported. My was ported and sent back for further porting. I'm holding 19 to redline at 5200'.

[LittleBlueGT]

I was thinking the same thing, but just figured you were ported. My was ported and sent back for further porting. I'm holding 19 to redline at 5200'.

 

What exactly was ported? Just the WG area? If so, then that shouldn't make much difference as far as overall airflow or attainable boost.

[05pearl]

What exactly was ported? Just the WG area? If so, then that shouldn't make much difference as far as overall airflow or attainable boost.

 

Here is a pic of the porting that was done to my 68.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79207&d=1263921905

[Ridgeracer]

You sure it was ported?...Looks just like my non ported 68HTA.

[05pearl]

Yep, I bought it from an individual on NASIOC. He actually sent back for further machining because he wanted it ported more than they did the first go around.

[LittleBlueGT]

FWIW I spent a bit of time comparing scalings on the 68HTA cars that run 21-22 psi up top vs mine. I am not flowing much less air then they air, but it is a bit less.

 

Maybe my MAF scaling is a bit off due to my using the OEM O2 sensor in the DP to scale things? IDK. It is nice to use it, and it has been very consistent. I will have to throw my PLX in there and compare.

 

At any rate, it looks like my set-up is a bit more efficient then others, and 22 psi up top would be about impossible. I still think I should be able to get 19-20 psi at red-line though.

 

Looks like I may take off the intake on Saturday, ohhhh the excitement!!!

 

FWIW I ran w/o BPV and it made no difference, so my BPV is obviously just fine.

[mattg]

You're going to work on the inlet/turbo connection?

[ClimberDHexMods]

LBGT do you see potential for a 8cm or 9cm or 10cm housing allowing you to make efficient boost up top? Or would the compressor be at the end of the line?

[LittleBlueGT]

You're going to work on the inlet/turbo connection?

 

Yes, again!