6MT Master Swap Thread

[Scooby2.5]

That's what I was referring to... "popping" it out. No need to remove the BJ to pop it out of the control arm / hub interface point. Undo the retaining "clamp" bol (not the castle nut), leverage down on the control arm and pop it loose from its seat in the the bottom of the hub, swing the hub out of the way, slide the axle out, slide the axle in, align the BJ with it's seat in the hub, slide it back in, tighten the clamp bolt, done with the BJ.

 

Yea your right, nut is not bothered if you pop it out of the clamp.

 

That's what I was thinking of.......

 

Maybe some goof ball thought you had to remove nut????

[DeltaNu1142]

I dunno. Update as of this morning, they have no ideas what's making the noise. They're going to pull the FSB & go for a ride. I've been running that bar & end links for at least 6 months without problems, so I don't know how a new transmission would cause the FSB to start knocking.

[SBT]

Did they possibly undo the engine mounts to try to get the tranny in there more easily and forget to bolt it back down. That would explain the sensation you were describing in the other thread... unless I've mixed-up your issue with someone else's

[DeltaNu1142]

Do not know. They haven't been overly communicative, which is a pet peeve of mine.

 

I'm headed there in about 20 minutes to see what they've done. What was the last time I posted... three hours ago? I've taken out & put back in both sways and end links in that amount of time. Of course... I probably have more practice than they do.

[PutnamCO]

DeltaNu1142 i hope they ge things figured out quickly for you.

 

 

HATE TO DOUBLE POST, BUT I'M GOING TO START A NEW THREAD IN THE TRANSMISSIONS SECTION. THANKS!

I may be doing a 6mt swap soon and have a couple questions. Can the oem flywheel be resurfaced or should i plan on getting an aftermarket flywheel?

 

What is the best clutch for my power- 371whp/378wtq? Im only concerned about longevity, not driveability. Ive had a 6-puck for 75k and am fine with chatter, difficulty engaging, etc.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited September 19, 2013 by PutnamCO

[DeltaNu1142]

OK--they found a problem, although based on the sequence of events I'm not sure it's the problem:

 

http://i.imgur.com/Fqq8IqD.jpg

 

This is the front passenger-side knuckle. They couldn't find the noise so they just started pulling things apart. When moving the control arm around, they found that the cup in which the ball joint sits was moving... so, it was loose. They put an impact wrench on it, and snap. Cracked it. They offered to weld it, but I said eff-that. They're getting a new knuckle & installing tomorrow. Did it have a hairline crack before which left the cup loose? Who knows.

 

Now, is that the cause of the noise? I don't know. They replaced the ball joints already, meaning they had the opportunity to loosen that bolt on their own. So... I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

 

In the meantime, what year WRX knuckles are the same as LGT knuckles? I assume there's a wide range of years that match.

Edited September 19, 2013 by DeltaNu1142

[boxkita]

OK--they found a problem, although based on the sequence of events I'm not sure it's the problem:

 

http://i.imgur.com/Fqq8IqD.jpg

 

This is the front passenger-side knuckle. They couldn't find the noise so they just started pulling things apart. When moving the control arm around, they found that the cup in which the ball joint sits was moving... so, it was loose. They put an impact wrench on it, and snap. Cracked it. They offered to weld it, but I said eff-that. They're getting a new knuckle & installing tomorrow. Did it have a hairline crack before which left the cup loose? Who knows.

 

Now, is that the cause of the noise? I don't know. They replaced the ball joints already, meaning they had the opportunity to loosen that bolt on their own. So... I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

 

In the meantime, what year WRX knuckles are the same as LGT knuckles? I assume there's a wide range of years that match.

 

Unless I missed something, the WRX knuckles don't really swap with LGT, due to the wheel bearing design. However, I'll let others comment on that (tried that route to get into 5x114.3 wheels).

 

There's an awful lot of dirty stock looking parts in there.

Suggested fixes:

SpecB LCA with WhiteLine bushings

new tie rod ends

[DeltaNu1142]

Unless I missed something, the WRX knuckles don't really swap with LGT, due to the wheel bearing design. However, I'll let others comment on that (tried that route to get into 5x114.3 wheels).

Are you sure you're not thinking about STi knuckles?

There's an awful lot of dirty stock looking parts in there.

Suggested fixes:

SpecB LCA with WhiteLine bushings

new tie rod ends

Ehh, it's a photo with pretty poor contrast. Live, it doesn't look bad. And as far as upgrades... I just want to get it solid with stock parts at the moment.

[boxkita]

Are you sure you're not thinking about STi knuckles?

 

Ehh, it's a photo with pretty poor contrast. Live, it doesn't look bad. And as far as upgrades... I just want to get it solid with stock parts at the moment.

 

Oh, I was thinking sti. Ignore me, then, I'm useless on this topic.

[SBT]

That's exactly where I thought it would be when you mentioned ball joints. I have them put a new hub in there. No way I can see that would be cracked on it's own unless dropped while the BJ was out, or subsequently fail if properly installed, without an impact to that area, post install.

[DeltaNu1142]

WRX knuckle installed. They say it's solid, but I'm leaving it for a day so they can make sure before I go pick up. I'm in class all day tomorrow anyway.

 

EDIT: I'm just correcting this because of SBT's info posted below... the shop used a Legacy knuckle, not a WRX. I don't want this to lead to misinformation down the road.

Edited October 22, 2013 by DeltaNu1142

[HAMMER DOWN]

Corrected part# in 1st. post. For R180 diff mount from the spec B - 41310AG040.

 

There was a "T" where the "G" belongs.

 

Mike

[SBT]

WRX knuckle installed. They say it's solid, but I'm leaving it for a day so they can make sure before I go pick up. I'm in class all day tomorrow anyway.

 

I don't know if this matters to you, but there does not appear to be any Legacy Front Axle Housings that cross to WRX items. When you search on Legacy Housing - Front Axle, these are the P/Ns you get.

 

RF: P/N 28313AG00A or 23813AG02A (Alternative)

LF: P/N 28313AG01A or 23813AG03A (Alternative)

 

Opposed Forces has no other Subaru vehicle that these parts cross to in their listings.

 

2007+ WRX P/Ns are:

 

RF: 28313AG020

LF: 28313AG030

 

Your call, but I'd make damn sure they were repairing the issue with the right parts before I took it back.

[DeltaNu1142]

Thanks, I'll be talking to the shop after school. He might have said they found a Legacy knuckle... I've lost track. Will post either way.

[BarManBean]

Question regarding transmissions and the need to change tire sizes: If I go from an OBXT 5mt / stock rear diff to a spec.b 6mt with matching rear diff--what will that do to my speedometer / odometer, if anything? Will I still want to run outback-sized tires, or will I want to swap to LGT-spec tires?

[DeltaNu1142]

The speed comes from the wheels, not from the transmission, so the only thing that's going to impact your speedo/odo is your tire size.

[BarManBean]

Got it. Is there a part I can swap to 'complete' the lgt drive train swap so I could run smaller tires? Speed sensor or something? Or is that asking for loads of trouble with little electronic issues once I start doing that...?

 

Sorry if this has been covered somewhere in the thread already

[DeltaNu1142]

Not sure--but couldn't you modify a speed sensor multiplier in the ECU using ROM Raider to run whatever size tires you want without screwing with the speedo?

 

EDIT: I'm looking through my hex file & I'm not finding much. I'm curious what's going to happen when I log gear position with a 6-speed mounted in a car with a 5-speed ECU

Edited September 21, 2013 by DeltaNu1142

[BarManBean]

If it was that easy wouldn't odometer fraud be pretty damn easy? I'll have to poke around and see what's different between the outback and legacy--I thought it was the drive ratios of the trans / diffs, but maybe not.

[Th3Franz]

You can change the revs/mile in the ROM for the ECU.

[BarManBean]

And that affects not the speedometer and the odometer? If so that's pretty sweet--would allow you to run just about any tire size and just adjust the tune for it? Only the gearing would be changed at that point based on outside tire circumference, yes?

[SBT]

And I thought it was all dependent upon the speed sensor itself, taking the reading from what the transmission was doing, similar to what the gearing will do to the wheels/tires. The speedo should be agnostic. The correct sensor would send the correct signal and the speedo would respond correctly.

[BarManBean]

Yeah, overall I'm confused. I've been concerned about maintaining a consistent outside circumference when picking tires, but maybe that's not necessary. It would sure be a lot easier to fit 245/40s instead of 245/45s, I'll tell you that much...

[DeltaNu1142]

...well... for MY interest, I've found these in the ROM:

 

http://i.imgur.com/YGNa4nS.png

 

...but I haven't found the rev/mile parameter yet.

Edited September 21, 2013 by DeltaNu1142

[BarManBean]

Isn't that engine revolutions per mile, not tire rotations per mile? With the same tires, tire rotations / mile would always be the same, so with the different numbers in those tables I think it's talking about revolutions per mile--in higher gears the engine is turning less per mile due to the higher speed. Or am I way off there...?