PutnamCO

I sold my 06 LGT two years ago because I had a newborn and a catless car with 400wtq on coilovers that needed time and love that I did not have. I bought a 2012 Audi S4, but unfortunately, I could not find a manual in the timeframe that I had. I like the Audi, and it's a comfortable car that has been reliable, but I miss a manual, and I find it frustratingly slow compared to my LGT. I don't have the time or money to build a beast of a car again, but I would like something a little faster. While the Audi has been totally reliable, I don't like the idea of modding an S4 with 73k miles. I think that a low-mile 07-09 Spec B with a VF52 on E85, tuned by cryo, would be a good compromise. I had that setup for a year, but that was 10 years ago, so I don't remember how it felt. If anyone has that setup, I would be interested in taking a quick ride with you.

Sounds good, thank you. We'll see if I can get the spec b driveshaft quickly and cheaply enough for it to make sense.

Does anyone see a big advantage to have a used Spec B driveshaft instead of a new Dorman Legacy 4EAT replacement? I'm putting down 400wtq.

Gotcha, thanks. It's from a Legacy so it should work. I may have time to take a look next week. The vibration is minor and only when I floor it, so I should have some time.

I think that the 05 4eat driveshaft that I've had on my car is on its way out. I bought a replacement 08 4eat driveshaft, took it to a reputable transmission shop to have them swapped, and they say that the mount is different. Unfortunately I havent had time to take a look myself, but does anyone know if there are differences amongst 05-09 driveshafts?

The actual headlight lens.

Anyone know if I can buy an OEM replacement headlight lens without the housing assembly? I have a set of RX300 retrofits that I really like, but one of the headlight lenses was cracked last week. Everything else looks to be in good shape and I would like to avoid swapping everything into another housing. I could also probably get a new headlight, take off the lens, and put it on my old one. I doubt the resale value of the housing assembly without a lens is very high.

There's a Firestone that I used during college while in the Springs. It's on Cascade downtown.

+1 for Scott with Auto Glass Authority. Flexible, quick and cheap. New windshield and molding look great.

Mine blew last summer at around 100k. Here's a pic of 1st gear. I had been stage III for about 40k, but never hard-shifted, never did 1/4 mile runs and almost never dropped the clutch. I always ran Extra-S.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'm assuming the Amsoil is 75w-90?

When I purchased the differential, the vent was missing, so I couldn't tell how clean everything was. I wanted to put a couple thousand miles on it and change the fluid to be sure it's clean.

I want to replace the fluid in my 04 STI R180 differential. I just learned that Subaru has discontinued the 1L LSD fluid, and only sells a 4L can. I do not want to lug around a 3/4 full can of gear oil during my move in a few months. Will Motul 90PA be a good alternative? I've read about it on NASIOC about it, and it seems like the next-best option, but wanted to see if anyone else here is running it.

I had this same problem recently. Try reverse bleeding it by bleeding out of the slave cylinder, but by pushing in the slave cylinder instead of the clutch pedal. That solved it for me after a dozen traditional bleeds. I think since the bleeder isn't the high-point in the system, that's why reverse bleeding may help.

Clutch felt perfect on the way to school, and I'll be leaving in a couple hours, so I'll report back. That's interesting about the Clutchmaster pressure plates. That makes sense, and although I don't mind a left leg workout, it is a nice change.

Just drove nearly 20 miles of stop and go, and the clutch felt perfect. On a side note, my new Clutchmaster FX400 is way easier to drive than my old Spec stg 3. It is a full-face, so I'm sure that's part of it. Much smoother engagement and the pedal force required feels about half of the Spec clutch. Would the different pedal force have anything to do with the pull style STI clutch compared to the push style LGT, or is that strictly the different pressure plates?

Yeah, I'm still a bit puzzled, so that would be great. Thanks.

I don't think so, as I checked both connections at the ends of the line that have the 10mm bolts. I think in all the bleeding I did, I would have seen a leak. I'm wondering if there was air caught at the top of the slave cylinder that wasn't being bled out the standard way. Do you think that is possible? My only other guess has to do with the cap, which I replaced with something with a smaller top when I had a Perrin-style TMIC. It still creates a seal, but it's the only part that's different. However, I've been running that cap for the last 60k miles.

We reverse-bled everything by pushing in the slave cylinder instead of the clutch pedal, and everything feels great.

Clutch fork and TOB are installed correctly. What I don't understand is after bleeding, it feels totally perfect, but that only lasts a few dozen shifts before the pedal falls to the floor, or the engagement point rises by 6 inches, and getting into gear is very difficult.

Yesterday, I drove my car for the first time after installing a new engine and an 04 STI swap. I was able to drive for a few minutes, but then the clutch went to the floor. I limped it back to the shop and bled it again. Drove for a few minutes with the same result. Repeated this a total of 6 times. I bled from the bleeder on the line and also on the slave cylinder. The 10mm bolts on the line are tight. It seems weird that the bleeder on the slave cylinder is not the highest point on the cylinder. However, I don't think that is my problem. I'm guessing maybe a little piece of something got into the reservoir and is disrupting the o-ring. I'm going to replace the master cylinder and try to bleed the system again. Has anyone had this much trouble bleeding the clutch, or thoughts on what the problem might be?

DeltaNu1142 i hope they ge things figured out quickly for you. HATE TO DOUBLE POST, BUT I'M GOING TO START A NEW THREAD IN THE TRANSMISSIONS SECTION. THANKS! I may be doing a 6mt swap soon and have a couple questions. Can the oem flywheel be resurfaced or should i plan on getting an aftermarket flywheel? What is the best clutch for my power- 371whp/378wtq? Im only concerned about longevity, not driveability. Ive had a 6-puck for 75k and am fine with chatter, difficulty engaging, etc. Thanks in advance.

Glad everything went well. The first time I replaced my clutch, I resurfaced the stock flywheel (even though people say you can't do it), and had no problems with it. The second time, I installed a single mass LWFW, and prefer the feel of that over the stocker. What clutch are you putting in? What stage is your car? If you are putting down more power than stock, I wouldn't use the stock clutch, but that's just me.

I was over at Matt's today and saw your car. It looks great!

Somehow missed this post, but really glad to hear you had such a good experience. Did you get a new tune from cryo, because that's definitely who you should talk to. PM me if you have any questions about order and type of mods that I've done. Welcome to the club!