lyndon Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 I'm about to bleed the brakes on my wife's 06 2.5i, and I'm not sure which order to do it in. I've got a service manual for my 02 WRX that says front R, rear L, front L, rear R, but I'm not sure if that's still good for this car. I did a search and found the same sequence for an 05 Legacy, so am I right to assume the same order for the 06 2.5i? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookslikeanevo Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 i was always taught, furthest to closest to the master cylinder... Current:MY05 SWP wagon - 253/290 UP, AEM CAI, Invidia Q300, tuned@yimisport OLD: MY06 GRP - 274/314 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoWagon Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 05 and 07 Legacy factory manuals quote opposite sequences... I do RF, LR, LF, RR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyndon Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 05 and 07 Legacy factory manuals quote opposite sequences... The 07 should be identical to the 06. Does this mean I should do RR, FL, RL, FR? Does anyone have a copy of the 06 or 07 factory manual to confirm this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I have a copy of the 2005 Legacy/Outback factory service manual. On page BR-33 it states "Perform the brake fluid replacement in order from the farthest wheel cylinder from master cylinder". This implies RR > LR > RF > LF But on page BR-34 it states the opposite: "Perform the operation in order from the closest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder". This implies LF > RF > LR > RR. And on page PM-32 there is yet another version. They show a diagram of the bleed sequence, which indicates a sequence of RF > LR > LF > RR So even the Subaru tech department is unsure about the correct bleed sequence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Always do furthest from the master cylinder and work your way forward. This insures that you replace all of the fluids in the lines and none was worked back through the system by going in the wrong direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 05 and 07 Legacy factory manuals quote opposite sequences... I do RF, LR, LF, RR. I think the order really doesnt matter too much as long as you get all the old fluid out. The only time I have seen it matter is when you have fixed piston calipers where you have 2 bleeder screws on each side of the caliper, normally I bleed the outside as much as i can and then bleed the inside one last. That way, you end up forcing as much of the bubbles out, and any of the remaining bubbles are caught up in the in-board nipple/bleeder. I've always done all my cars furtherest corner from the ABS unit if the car has one, and if it doesn't I go by the furthest from Master cylinder. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aigochamaloh Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 BR-32 in the 2009 vaca pics states "Perform the brake fluid replacement in order from the farthest wheel cylinder from master cylinder" This is also the way I have learned on all other cars so I guess I will continue to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 ^with that being said, which order do we go in? There seems to be much confusion in the posts above about the order... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aigochamaloh Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 ^with that being said, which order do we go in? There seems to be much confusion in the posts above about the order... rr, rl, fr, fl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 16 - Brake Fluid Replacement.pdf Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 The real question is what type of brake fluid should you use?? This is a VERY important decision. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elpete77 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 The real question is what type of brake fluid should you use?? This is a VERY important decision. mmmm, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 The real question is what type of brake fluid should you use?? This is a VERY important decision. Back from the dead. DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid is recommended for a 2005. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Lesson learned, make sure the sealing surface on the caliper is not damaged. The one I bought from NAPA today had a gouge where the crush washer seals, of course I don't notice it until trying to bleed the brakes... Took that one back and ordered another, they said it will be there after 4:30 today...But it wasn't there, so they will deliver it to the house in a few, it's 4:45 now. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Good thing I kept the banjo bolt from the other caliper, because the one NAPA delivered didn't have one. Got it on and fluid to it, but had to come in and get showered and head out for a family dinner in a few. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Looks like I've been doing it wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Now that this is back alive... Last year I bought one of these, https://www.google.com/search?q=motive+power+bleeder+subaru&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=motive+power&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0j0i20i263j0l4j46i175i199j0l2.4695j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Should have done that years ago. Picked up a qt bottle of DOT3 from walmart, $7.00 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Now that this is back alive... Last year I bought one of these, https://www.google.com/search?q=motive+power+bleeder+subaru&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=motive+power&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0j0i20i263j0l4j46i175i199j0l2.4695j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Should have done that years ago. Picked up a qt bottle of DOT3 from walmart, $7.00 So Max one thing I noticed with my Motive power bleeder is the cap that you put on the fluid res, is SO tight that when I’m done, I have to wrestle with the thing so much I feel like I’m gonna snap the reservoir right off the master cylinder. I did opt for the nicer metal cap instead of the plastic option from Motive. Which cap did you buy and do you have this issue at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dease42 Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 So Max one thing I noticed with my Motive power bleeder is the cap that you put on the fluid res, is SO tight that when I’m done, I have to wrestle with the thing so much I feel like I’m gonna snap the reservoir right off the master cylinder. I did opt for the nicer metal cap instead of the plastic option from Motive. Which cap did you buy and do you have this issue at all? Obviously not Max, but you aren't kidding. I found that a good size pipe wrench worked wonders - didn't feel like I was torquing the master cylinder at all and twisted it right off. Felt like overkill, but it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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