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Cobb Accessport & ECUTek Info LOOK HERE FIRST!


SUBE555

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Just download & go right to 1.15.

 

I have found that it takes a good 100 miles to be totally adapted. I only have about 10 miles on 1.15, and while a couple of things feel a bit different, I won't know for awhile yet.

Ron
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Depending on the tune, either can happen. If the map is too aggressive you will loose power over time. If the map is not setup quite right it will learn to get stronger over a couple hundred miles. If the tune is perfect it will be strong after just a couple pulls.

 

Jarrad

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Depending on the tune, either can happen. If the map is too aggressive you will loose power over time. If the map is not setup quite right it will learn to get stronger over a couple hundred miles. If the tune is perfect it will be strong after just a couple pulls.

 

Jarrad

 

Not sure that I agree with that. With the adaptive learning that many cars have (besides Subaru), the adaptive learning will fine-tune to your driving style. With a fresh AP base map load, I always feel a difference right off, but it does improve over time. I had the same situation on my previous Fords after doing resets to the EEC-IV ECUs, both with & without chips.

Ron
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  • 2 weeks later...
if i get a crucial UP n a shorty DP can i still run stage 2 or do i need to do something about my stock 3rd cat(immediately) ?

 

You'll want to review the FAQ at Cobb a bit more in-depth. :)

 

Like jim1969 said, even the shorty DP will allow you to "run Stage II," however, as stated in Cobb's FAQ, optimal AccessPort Stage II mapping benefits are not realized without a full TBE.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Not sure that I agree with that. With the adaptive learning that many cars have (besides Subaru), the adaptive learning will fine-tune to your driving style. With a fresh AP base map load, I always feel a difference right off, but it does improve over time. I had the same situation on my previous Fords after doing resets to the EEC-IV ECUs, both with & without chips.

 

I think that is a myth. The transmission might adapt to your driving sytle but the ECU spends most of it's time trying to adapt to the fuel/air/temperature conditions and keeping your engine from detonating itself to pieces.

 

In my case, the 91 octane we have a round here doesn't seem to be quite good enough for the engine. So right after a reset it performs great and works smoothly. After 100 miles or os it feels like the ECU has pulled back significantly (probably because of knock) and the stutter shows its ugly head. I don't think it has anything to do with my driving style and everything to do with the quality of the gasoline.

 

I've tried a few times to put Sunuco 94 octane in it and the power comes back while the stutter completely disappears. That stuff is expensive though...

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I think that is a myth. The transmission might adapt to your driving sytle but the ECU spends most of it's time trying to adapt to the fuel/air/temperature conditions and keeping your engine from detonating itself to pieces.

 

 

Not a myth at all. It's been around at least since the late '80s with Ford, and Subaru has in in their description of the LGT. On Fords (and others I'm sure), tuners will remove the adaptive processing (with either chips or the SCTuner devices) on highly modified cars so that they can keep a consistent level of tune without the ECU trying to correct things.

Ron
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just one dumb question

after you uploaded the new map into the onboard ECU you can unplug your AP no problem right?? and what is the most updated version availiable @ the moment? 1.15??

 

ps. if you guys DO keep the AP on the car, where did you guys place it?? in the glove box? the storage above the center console?? storage afterthe cup holders??

 

best regards

alan

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  • 2 weeks later...
Need help, when i plug the two test plugs together i don't get the flashing check engine light. The fans run thru their cycle but no check engine light. Do i proceed to reflashing? I looked everywhere for a second set of test connector but with no luck. Need quick help.
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Need help, when i plug the two test plugs together i don't get the flashing check engine light. The fans run thru their cycle but no check engine light. Do i proceed to reflashing? I looked everywhere for a second set of test connector but with no luck. Need quick help.

 

Read... Search... Seek...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17640&highlight=cobb+flash

 

 

COBB: Update the freakin' manual already! :icon_roll

-=- Livin life at 140 BPM -=-

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why is it if you just have the AP from Cobb it is considered Stage 1 but if you get the AP with PDXtuning maps it is a Stage 0?

 

It's because these "Stages" are not truly defined:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1526&highlight=stage

 

These very arbitrary "stages" - as you can see - is very confusing to just about everyone involved. The "stages" are often defined by both the community involved (i.e. a "Stage I" Scooby can be very different, from, say, a "Stage I" SRT-4) and/or the retailer/tuner who packages such modifications.

 

As you've cited for yourself above, drewster, your confusion stems from the latter of the two reasons.

 

I, for one, would love for this type of reference to be chucked-out-the-window.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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;) NP - and don't worry, everyone gets confused about the UP/DP stuff the first time around! :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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so, i bought my AP and finally got it last tuesday... my basemap is stage 1 93 octane.. i run sunoco 94 octane... but i decided to play around with the other maps, like valet mode and the antithefts and stuff... and a question about the economy mode that i downloaded from the site... i don't feel a difference between econ and stock or even stage 1.... i couldn't feel a difference, they say the turn off the boost controller... buttt i still feel boost and the car still moves.. i don't see how it's in any way, shape, or form "economical".. is that map messed up or something? did i do something wrong? the two antithefts are no different from each other... they are both crank, no start conditions... it's just one runs about a second longer before stalling. ALL IS APPRECIATED.
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