Cobb Accessport & ECUTek Info LOOK HERE FIRST!

[km580]

I would like to know how many AP users have gotten rid of the dreded stutter probem with the AP. I plan on getting an AP in the next week or so.

[TDC Tuning]

I would like to know how many AP users have gotten rid of the dreded stutter probem with the AP. I plan on getting an AP in the next week or so.

 

for a $150 custom map i have it elimiated (and more power than stage 1 and 2 )

or WITH an ap for $700 shipped!!

[psucaptainkickass]

I would like to know how many AP users have gotten rid of the dreded stutter probem with the AP. I plan on getting an AP in the next week or so.

You know what I noticed:

I tried out my friends AP for the weekend back during Thanksgiving, and it was cold. When I did that the stutter was gone. I know that the ECU is effectively reset when putting a map on, so I figured that was why it was gone, and eventually it will come back.

 

The weekend comes to a close and I take the AP off, and go on my merry way. The thing is, its like a month and a half later, and I still don't have the stutter. I have driven at least another 1000 miles on the car, so it should have showed up.

 

Now here is my theory..I don't know if it holds water, but here goes.

I bought my car in July, and at the time, I didn't feel too much stutter..at least enough for me to complain about it. So I am driving it for like 3-4k miles and then Fall hits and things start to cool down. Then I start getting the stutter, so I am like..oh it is because of the cold weather that it is getting more apparent.

 

I then do that AP stuff mentioned earlier Thanksgiving weekend, effectively resetting my ECU. But when the ECU was reset, it was COLD outside, like 35-40 degrees, and the weather has been like that ever since then. Is it possible that the COLD brings on the stutter, and that by reflashing in the cold, and having the ECU relearn in the cold, it has learned to control or reduce the stutter?

[PDXTuning]

When you removed your friends AP from your car you likely got a new map on your ECU. The AP puts a stock map back on, not necessarily the same map your car had on it. The map they put back on may not have the stutter problem.

 

You know what I noticed:

I tried out my friends AP for the weekend back during Thanksgiving, and it was cold. When I did that the stutter was gone. I know that the ECU is effectively reset when putting a map on, so I figured that was why it was gone, and eventually it will come back.

 

The weekend comes to a close and I take the AP off, and go on my merry way. The thing is, its like a month and a half later, and I still don't have the stutter. I have driven at least another 1000 miles on the car, so it should have showed up.

 

Now here is my theory..I don't know if it holds water, but here goes.

I bought my car in July, and at the time, I didn't feel too much stutter..at least enough for me to complain about it. So I am driving it for like 3-4k miles and then Fall hits and things start to cool down. Then I start getting the stutter, so I am like..oh it is because of the cold weather that it is getting more apparent.

 

I then do that AP stuff mentioned earlier Thanksgiving weekend, effectively resetting my ECU. But when the ECU was reset, it was COLD outside, like 35-40 degrees, and the weather has been like that ever since then. Is it possible that the COLD brings on the stutter, and that by reflashing in the cold, and having the ECU relearn in the cold, it has learned to control or reduce the stutter?

[psucaptainkickass]

When you removed your friends AP from your car you likely got a new map on your ECU. The AP puts a stock map back on, not necessarily the same map your car had on it. The map they put back on may not have the stutter problem.

 

Very true, I hadn't thought about that. What happens if you disconnect the battery? Will it reset the ECU totally - making it like it came from the factory? Or does it retain the stock map that the AP put on? Not saying I want to do that since there is no stutter, but I am just thinking out loud here.

[PDXTuning]

Nice post TDC, very informative, but I wanted to add a couple things to this.

Long term fuel trims will actually change the open loop fueling. So some of the effects of the intake will diminish as the long term fueling adjusts.

As TDC stated the larger MAF housing will increase timing. The ECU is primarily run off the load calculated from the MAF voltage. Anytime you decrease the MAF voltage you are making the ECU calculate the load incorrectly. Since as a general rule less timing is run for more load, you get more timing with the leaning out effect. This is what is so dangerous about running intakes on our cars. The entire architecture of the ECU requires the load to be properly calculated.

Most intakes can be tuned for, but you really should only run an intake when required. The timing changes and fueling changes should be accomplished through proper tuning, not with a global alteration of the calculated air flow into the motor.

Jarrad

 

99% of intakes WILL LEAN THE CAR OUT

and most will affect the timing a bit

 

 

Some of you guys are QUITE mislead about ahow the ECU "adjusts"

 

ill go into a bit about it:

.........

[nhesketh]

Very true, I hadn't thought about that. What happens if you disconnect the battery? Will it reset the ECU totally - making it like it came from the factory? Or does it retain the stock map that the AP put on? Not saying I want to do that since there is no stutter, but I am just thinking out loud here.

 

If you disconnect the battery, it goes back to whatever BASE map you have loaded from the AP. If you are running a stock AP base map with other real time maps over it, then it will go back to the stock AP base map. If you are running a stage 1 93 octane map as your base, it will revert to that. Disconnecting the batter clears out the real-time map. To get to the absolute stock setting like straight from the factory, you have to un-install the AP, which has the effect of flashing your ECU back to the factory setting, like it was never modified at all.

[jcole05]

Question for Christian (if he's still monitoring this thread) or for anyone else. Thinking of going the AP route, but trying to understand the graphs posted on Cobb's website. Under "stage 1 power pkg" for the legacy GT, you see a beautiful graph clearly showing a nice increase in power throughout the rpm range.

 

But looking at the map notes for v1.15, the curve isn't quite so pretty. You get NO increase in power until above 3200rpm or so, and the overall increase looks more minimal.

 

Any reason for the difference in these graphs? Power down low in the rpm range is important to me, as I often stay in the 2500-3500 range for daily commuting. If I go stage 1, will I see any difference down here? As I say, one of Cobb's graphs says I will, the other says I won't.

 

My guess is, a lot of you will say go to stage 2 w/ up and dp to get quicker spool and much more overall power. I may do this, but was still thinking about starting at stage 1.

 

Thanks for any input.

[km580]

Her is a quick (and maybe stupid) question. Would I damage anything by useing a stage 2 R/T map without any modifications. I know I would not get the potential of the map without at least a downpipe. I was just curious.

[derffred]

Her is a quick (and maybe stupid) question. Would I damage anything by useing a stage 2 R/T map without any modifications. I know I would not get the potential of the map without at least a downpipe. I was just curious.

 

i was thinking the same exact thing... maybe you'd get a quicker car... however i don't think it would run very efficient.. it would put fuel and boost in areas that's not necessary and would probably make your engine run terribly... that's my assumption.. any others?

[rporter]

If you do a search through these AP threads, there is a post from either Christian or Trey from Cobb about this. IIRC, they basically say that the car would probably run slower, with less power, if you don't at least have a better downpipe with Stage 2.

[AWD-Turbo]

Her is a quick (and maybe stupid) question. Would I damage anything by useing a stage 2 R/T map without any modifications. I know I would not get the potential of the map without at least a downpipe. I was just curious.

If you don’t have any engine mods, that’s what cobb stage 1 is for. You will make more power with cobb stage 1 on an otherwise stock engine than with stage 2.

[km580]

OK, thanks guys.

[LegacyGTSC]

I got my AP like 4 days ago and I am running stage 2 93 oct. which should yield around 16psi, correct? Well I'm only getting 11.5 or 11.8psi which is upsetting me. LOL. I need more power, but don't we all. I talked to Cobb and the rep. said that it may take up to two weeks to reach desired boost levels. Is this true? Is it like this with every AP on the 05 LGT's ? I know that I'm new with the whole AP thing since my last car was a 92 SVX LS-L but I would expect something more like the instant difference from the ECU chip that I installed on my SVX. But I'd appreciate any feedback on that subject.

[TDC Tuning]

I got my AP like 4 days ago and I am running stage 2 93 oct. which should yield around 16psi, correct? Well I'm only getting 11.5 or 11.8psi which is upsetting me. LOL. I need more power, but don't we all. I talked to Cobb and the rep. said that it may take up to two weeks to reach desired boost levels. Is this true? Is it like this with every AP on the 05 LGT's ? I know that I'm new with the whole AP thing since my last car was a 92 SVX LS-L but I would expect something more like the instant difference from the ECU chip that I installed on my SVX. But I'd appreciate any feedback on that subject.

 

 

Check out my E tune thread in 2.5L powertrain forum

and PM me

[rporter]

I got my AP like 4 days ago and I am running stage 2 93 oct. which should yield around 16psi, correct? Well I'm only getting 11.5 or 11.8psi which is upsetting me. LOL. I need more power, but don't we all. I talked to Cobb and the rep. said that it may take up to two weeks to reach desired boost levels. Is this true? Is it like this with every AP on the 05 LGT's ? I know that I'm new with the whole AP thing since my last car was a 92 SVX LS-L but I would expect something more like the instant difference from the ECU chip that I installed on my SVX. But I'd appreciate any feedback on that subject.

 

You need to do at least a 100 miles of varied driving to let the ECU adapt. I have seen this on moving from the 1.02 - 1.10 -1.15 Stage 1 maps. I saw it on the dragstrip when I ran with about 30 miles on the initial 1.02 AP load, then later when it settled in. Very noticeable difference on the street, also.

 

This is not uncommon, my previous "car of choice" had the same deal. Now, some tuners will disable the adaptive learning to better control the tuning for serious mods, but for a basic daily driver with Stage 1, and even a mild Stage 2 setup, it works just fine.

[coug06]

I've noticed a few people have asked questions about how the accessport affects subaru warranty and engine life, but no one's answered. Anyone have any insight on warranty issues with the accessport?

[sduford]

Technically, it voids your drivetrain warranty. However, from I understand in the USA at least, Subaru would have to prove that the damage was done by the AP.

[dvdt]

Anyone have any long term reviews of different Stage 1 maps in regard to the stuttering issue?

 

I have been using the latest standand stage 1 map from cobb for over a month now. At first it seemed to fix the stuttering. But now its back, but happens under different conditions than before.

 

Basically wondering if I buy custom map, will this "truely" elminate the stuttering or will is just come back later in a different form?

[Spawn11587]

Here is my Newb question...which i looked through this entire thread, and didnt find it answered.

 

Now im aware that the ECU can only be reflashed about 100 times with regardes to its base maps, but the real-time maps can be done almost infinitly amount of times.

 

The real time maps...poeple say that you put them on when you go to the track, but how long will the real time map stay in the ECU, will it divert back to the base map when u shut the car off? or will it divert back to the base map only when u tell it too.

 

Basically the BASE MAP is the default map, and the real time is the modified map, but how long/HOW? does the real time map stay on there?

[rporter]

Real Time map stays there until you disconnect the battery (or disconnect power to the ECU for any reason). It's just like the Adaptive Learning logic in your ECU, that also gets reset when power is cut. Power stays active to the ECU when you turn off the key.

 

You can go to Cobb's site and download the Manual for the AP,which will give you more info. The 100X is a "guesstimate" for reloads of base maps. IMHO, it's a non-issue. I've done a few base map reloads in the 9 months I've had mine, but that was primarily for new map releases from Cobb.

[Alex25]

Can I use Cobb Tuning AccessPORT on my JDM Legacy GT B4 spec.B?

[rporter]

Can I use Cobb Tuning AccessPORT on my JDM Legacy GT B4 spec.B?

 

Contact Cobb and ask them.

[mkalbarc]

Is there any place I can DL the 1.10 map?

 

Thanks

[rporter]

Is there any place I can DL the 1.10 map?

 

Thanks

 

I still have most of the 1.10 maps saved, so I coud send you one (if I have what you need). But why? I found 1.15 to be a touch better.