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Real question here: My vaccum line popped off my BOV the other day while I was driving and I threw a CEL. No prob, just re-attached the line and disconnected the battery to reset the light.

 

Would throwing a code, vaccum line popping off causing a temporary stall condition, the ECU trying to compensate or disconnecting the battery, require me to re-flash my stage 2 tune? Thanks.

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When the vac line was disconnected the car will want to stall. disconnecting the battery resets the ECU's stored learning, not the tune. it relearns for about the first 50miles after a reset. In that period it may idle weird and respond slower.
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Real question here: My vaccum line popped off my BOV the other day while I was driving and I threw a CEL. No prob, just re-attached the line and disconnected the battery to reset the light.

 

Would throwing a code, vaccum line popping off causing a temporary stall condition, the ECU trying to compensate or disconnecting the battery, require me to re-flash my stage 2 tune? Thanks.

 

If you have an Cobb tune that includes a 'real time' map you need to re-install the real time stuff. That is in RAM, so it is lost when you reset the ECU. With a Tactrix tune, everything is in ROM so nothing is lost when you reset.

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If you have an Cobb tune that includes a 'real time' map you need to re-install the real time stuff. That is in RAM, so it is lost when you reset the ECU. With a Tactrix tune, everything is in ROM so nothing is lost when you reset.

 

It's an infamous tune. I checked for knock after i reset the CEL and it's clean, 0's accross the board, so I'm happy. Thanks for the reply's gents!

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It's an infamous tune. I checked for knock after i reset the CEL and it's clean, 0's accross the board, so I'm happy. Thanks for the reply's gents!

 

When you reset the ecu it resets the tables back to 0's. Drive for a bit at all load ranges

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Hey all .. new here. *waves*

 

Sorry for budding in here, but I've spent some time searching and can't really find the answer to my questions.

 

I'm looking for the most cost effective power/throttle-response upgrade for an 05-06 LGT. Reliability is of paramount importance, since this is my DD. I'm not looking to change the turbo, intercooler, or anything like that. Simply a tune + exhaust, which is where I'm confused/need some help:

 

At first I was looking at the Cobb AP but I saw the raving reviews of the Infamous1 tunes, I'm convinced.

 

Now I'm pondering between Stage I and Stage II. The reason I'm having trouble is twofold:

 

1. I need to pass emissions. So I will need a cat that will do so.

 

2. I want to keep my exhaust (relatively) quiet. I want the boxer rumble, and I don't mind it to be a screaming banshee when I rip it (high rpm WOT); BUT city driving (under 3k) I want her to be somewhat hushhush.

 

So... I see my options as follows:

 

Should I just stay stock exhaust and get a tune? How much WHP/WTQ improvement can I expect? At least I know it will be quiet (too quiet perhaps) and will pass emissions. (stage1)

 

OR should I upgrade the catback? Will this net appreciable gains? I'm thinking a custom single 3" stainless mandrel bent with a res and a muffler. (for weight/cost reduction) I'm thinking both Vibrant? This should keep me emissions-legal, but might be loud.

 

OR should I keep the stock catback and replace the downpipe/cat? I've heard the that this is the biggest "bottleneck", and the stock catback flows quiet well. The issue is with emissions. Are there any high flow cats that are guaranteed to pass emissions?

 

OR lastly, should I just get a full turboback? Custom or otherwise. Most expensive, and runs into the same emissions issue... (stage2)

 

Thoughts? Can anyone give approximate whp/wtq figures for each of the options above?

 

Thanks so much!

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You want stage 2 with a catted dp and stock exhaust.

 

At stage 2 I think you'd be beter off with an intercooler than a cutback with your goals.

But numbers can be all over the place depending on climate and tuner.

 

Be sure to replace your up pipe too, 05-06 up pipes have cats in them that infamous can remove the code that removing it will throw in the ecu.

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^^Good advice. However, there are quiet aftermarket CBEs. The Borla is pretty quiet and has nice flow, though pricey. I have it on my sedan. And you can still pass emissions with a proper (e.g., Infamous tune) wit a louder CBE. I enjoy the (loud) sound of the cheap GMS on my wagon
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You want stage 2 with a catted dp and stock exhaust.

 

At stage 2 I think you'd be beter off with an intercooler than a cutback with your goals.

But numbers can be all over the place depending on climate and tuner.

 

Be sure to replace your up pipe too, 05-06 up pipes have cats in them that infamous can remove the code that removing it will throw in the ecu.

 

^^Good advice. However, there are quiet aftermarket CBEs. The Borla is pretty quiet and has nice flow, though pricey. I have it on my sedan. And you can still pass emissions with a proper (e.g., Infamous tune) wit a louder CBE. I enjoy the (loud) sound of the cheap GMS on my wagon

 

Thanks!

 

So I'm thinking:

 

-catless uppipe

-catted downpipe

-custom single 3" exhaust (mandrel bent stainless), with res/muffler

 

If I don't want to go any further (turbo, internals, BOV, intercooler), that will get me some respectable power to the ground?

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  • 1 month later...

Quick Tuning question - a buddy of mine who I tuned a few months back just installed ULH to his STI with EWG/HTA Green/850cc/FMIC/basic stage 2 mods.

 

I was wondering what the general effects of adding a header without a tune? Dispite me telling him to not drive hard until I can update his tune, he says he "thinks" he hit fuel cut the other day.

 

I would have expected an underboost issue with a header - not an over boost one.

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Those mods are not stage 2.

 

 

A buddy of mine who is stage 3 went from stock headers to ULH agency powers and EFI said it should be fine with it....I logged with him after some pulls and everything was good, no boost problems, no knock, trims were fine...don't know about AFR though....

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So I am going to Stage 2 on my 08 Spec B on Friday and I have a couple of questions.

 

I have already installed my Cat-Back and a Larger TMIC, I am having the Cat-less Downpipe installed on Friday. I am wondering if it will be okay to run the OTS Cobb Stage 2 Map on my car till I can get a Tune done. I am looking at getting Tune done next month.

 

This is not my DD hence why I went with the Catless DP.

 

I have already had custom tunes done before as I have a 400 HP WRX so I am not new to Subaru's or their tuning, just new to the 2.5 motors and Legacy's and how they react to the OTS maps. :)

 

Thanks!

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The Cobb map can still knock, it's not the safest out there but for the most part it will do. If you want to be even more safe, run the map designed for bad gas, iirc called 91 ACN. It will be a bit more conservative. Ideally you should try to keep the Accessport hooked up and watch the Dynamic Advance Multiplier, Boost, Feedback Knock and Fine Learning Knock. Even after you get a tune you should still datalog occasionally to make sure it's running fine.
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The Cobb map can still knock, it's not the safest out there but for the most part it will do. If you want to be even more safe, run the map designed for bad gas, iirc called 91 ACN. It will be a bit more conservative. Ideally you should try to keep the Accessport hooked up and watch the Dynamic Advance Multiplier, Boost, Feedback Knock and Fine Learning Knock. Even after you get a tune you should still datalog occasionally to make sure it's running fine.

 

Cool. Thanks.

 

What numbers will be warning signs for me when it comes to D.A.M., F.K. & F.L.K.?

 

I usually only have my AP hooked up when I am at the track, but I will be sure to leave it hooked up after the install just in case I need it.

 

Thanks again.

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First off DAM should be 1.0. If it is lower than that, it's bad news and you should back off boost until you get it tuned. As for the other two, in broad terms, you may see fine knock learning activity which is not the end of the world unless it is severe (high numbers). Same goes for feedback knock, if it is consistent and high in values, it's a reason to worry. I mentioned boost as well just to keep an eye for overboost.
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First off DAM should be 1.0. If it is lower than that, it's bad news and you should back off boost until you get it tuned. As for the other two, in broad terms, you may see fine knock learning activity which is not the end of the world unless it is severe (high numbers). Same goes for feedback knock, if it is consistent and high in values, it's a reason to worry. I mentioned boost as well just to keep an eye for overboost.

 

 

Awesome, thanks. I will definitely keep all that in mind.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK so the 05Lgt 5EAT came w/ the Cobb Accessport-no wire for PC

I will get one from Radioshack (me hopes)

manual self explanitory?

I donated to LegacyGT.com which allows me to have this nifty signature. :p

 

 

If anything SCASEYS posts ever becomes a sticky i'm gonna light this whole place on fire :lol:
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