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5EAT Rebuild by IPT


jerseyglock

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Wow, I didn't think the 5eat had such issues:icon_surp.

 

Particularly since failures have occured on smaller frame turbo upgrades. I wonder, if going bigger(on the turbo) to reduce the instant onslaught of trq seen by these smaller turbo's. Perhaps, I had a point in saying that the bigger turbo's actually appear to be gentler on the drivetrain?

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Wow, I didn't think the 5eat had such issues:icon_surp.

 

Particularly since failures have occured on smaller frame turbo upgrades. I wonder, if going bigger(on the turbo) to reduce the instant onslaught of trq seen by these smaller turbo's. Perhaps, I had a point in saying that the bigger turbo's actually appear to be gentler on the drivetrain?

 

That is a theory. Since larger turbos don't reach their peak till later on in the rpm band, then it will be a little easier on the tranny. This is just a thoery i heard.

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I have added a tranny cooler and tranny temp gauge. Will see what temps get up to in the summer. As far as switching to synthetic tranny fluid, what is the best way. I have been told how by amsoil and don't like their answer. Start draining and start filling at the same time and turn the car on. I think not. Any ideas?
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Well it should be known that any auto with long cushy shifts is destined to fail. The only question is when.

 

The quicker and firmer the shift, the longer the trans lives. First off the line pressure needs to be increased, this creates greater clamping force on clutches and bands, second the quicker the clutches, or bands set, the less heat causing friction they experience.

 

The auto's I used to do in the days of American Muscle Would just about break your neck, and sometimes break driveline parts, but the trans never failed. (Made great 1-2, and 2-3 tire chirps while just crusing with a nice firm bump when shifting) Hell you could get manual V.B.'s shifted quicker than M.T.'s but no clutch.

 

Jim

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I have added a tranny cooler and tranny temp gauge. Will see what temps get up to in the summer. As far as switching to synthetic tranny fluid, what is the best way. I have been told how by amsoil and don't like their answer. Start draining and start filling at the same time and turn the car on. I think not. Any ideas?

 

what tranny cooler did you use?

Semper Fi.
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tx for the quck re's, hybrid.

 

I have added a tranny cooler and tranny temp gauge. Will see what temps get up to in the summer. As far as switching to synthetic tranny fluid, what is the best way. I have been told how by amsoil and don't like their answer. Start draining and start filling at the same time and turn the car on. I think not. Any ideas?

 

+1; would also like to hear what the consensus is on the "best way".

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i took mine to a lube shop in town and they have a machine that will suck out all the fluid and fill up with the new synthetic. This is what I was told at least. Someone might want to chime in on this. I guess I wonlt have to worry about this now, since the tranny is new and fresh. I will fill it up with BG synthetic. Got my BG atf from the suby dealership. You can go to BG's website and usse the dealer locator. It's $75 for a box of atf. 1 box should fillup the tranny. Great way to use Suby Bucks!:icon_wink
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Wow, I didn't think the 5eat had such issues:icon_surp.

 

Particularly since failures have occured on smaller frame turbo upgrades. I wonder, if going bigger(on the turbo) to reduce the instant onslaught of trq seen by these smaller turbo's. Perhaps, I had a point in saying that the bigger turbo's actually appear to be gentler on the drivetrain?

 

is the JDM twinscroll legacy having the same problems? same 5EAT. The twinscroll should spool as fast as the vf40 or an 18g and deliver a fair amount of power. maybe apexjapan would know.

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is the JDM twinscroll legacy having the same problems? same 5EAT. The twinscroll should spool as fast as the vf40 or an 18g and deliver a fair amount of power. maybe apexjapan would know.

 

JDM 's run a 2.0l, much less trq than a USDM 2.5l

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the tranny mod by IPT costs more than all of the power mods put together.

 

My tranny ran 4750 with shipping. Thats a darn good price for a fully built race tranny. I don't think you can do a full race manual tranny for that much. When people think this is a lot for a tranny, it really isn't for what you get. I think there was an article on nasioc about people complaining on auto rebuilds.

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This is the tranny cooler I purchased: http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=HH41310

 

Install not too bad. Just remember, this is the largest on they offer for our cars. So it was a little of a tight fit. Put it right up front connected to the pillar running up and down in front of the radiator. Now temps where around 65 the other day, gauge did not move on highway, in town got up to 140 at most. Will see when summer gets here.

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This is the tranny cooler I purchased: http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=HH41310

 

Install not too bad. Just remember, this is the largest on they offer for our cars. So it was a little of a tight fit. Put it right up front connected to the pillar running up and down in front of the radiator. Now temps where around 65 the other day, gauge did not move on highway, in town got up to 140 at most. Will see when summer gets here.

 

Looks nice. A lot of people have been recommending the hayden 677 one. Is there any reason you chose this one over the hayden?

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That is a theory. Since larger turbos don't reach their peak till later on in the rpm band, then it will be a little easier on the tranny. This is just a thoery i heard.

 

I really wish there was an easy way to prove this.

 

The consesus I'm getting here that first a tranny cooler should be installed to avoid higher tempratures($40-100). Then a temp gauge like the prosport one i linked earlier. Thirdly some Synthetic ATF ($75). Finally Get a valve body mod to firm up the shifts (500). Price doesn't seem that bad If it can give some kind of assurance, and some performance

 

This looks like the only way to protect our tranny other than getting it completely rebuilt or buy a new race tranny (475).

 

 

Then all you have to do is add a 20g and the supporting hardware to reduce insane low-end tq :)

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I have the hayden 1677... it is smaller than the one Prime Power linked: ~5ish x 11ish x 3/4 versus 7ish x 11ish x 3/4.

 

Makes mounting it easier, but the larger model is a bit heavier duty. Jegs, summit, other places have tons of different ones as well.

 

 

Mike

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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Any cooler will be fine, I just went above and beyond. Install would have been easier with a small one, but mine wasn't too bad. If you live in cold weather, I don't recommend both the cooler and synthetic, as the fluid may never warm up. Really, just adding the cooler should be enough.
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Any cooler will be fine, I just went above and beyond. Install would have been easier with a small one, but mine wasn't too bad. If you live in cold weather, I don't recommend both the cooler and synthetic, as the fluid may never warm up. Really, just adding the cooler should be enough.

 

 

Hmm...I'd rather error on the overkill side. The thing is I live in blacksburg va (southern va mountains) 80% of the year. Temp's usually don't go above 80 degrees in the summer or spring months and in the summer avg temps are 35-40.

 

I saw where firming up shifts would help extend the life of our tranny I was coming back and I started playing with manumatic mode again. Using it actually makes the shifts quicker and firmer (as opposed to some lazy shifts if left in normal mode). I know its no comparision to an upgraded trans but would using manumatic more often help increase the life of the trans?

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  • 3 weeks later...
alright, i'm trying to figure out what all i need to do. looks like the valvebody upgrade will help fix some of my issues. as described earlier, my gears are grinding from the low end torque w/ the STI swap. I'm assuming, I can contact IPT and find out about how or what is needed for the valve body upgrade??
Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!!
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as described earlier, my gears are grinding from the low end torque w/ the STI swap.

 

1. where is this described ?(I just reviewed the entire thread)

 

2. you have "grinding" as opposed to "slipping"?

 

This is one scary thread.....six thousand dollars for a rebuild?!?

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