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edmundu

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Everything posted by edmundu

  1. Rich, Just grab the AccessEcu folder along with any subdirectories, it should be in the %system drive%\program files directory. Drop it onto your new laptop/pc, then install the HAsp key software, which is in AccessEcu\StreetTuner% directory. Then plug in the Hasp key, then fire it up. That's it:) You can do this for as many pc's as you wish, because you need the Hasp key to run it, you will not exceed the single user license for it. I find this helpful when bored at my previous job, I could be editing maps, then trying them out on my commute home:lol: Not anymore though, my present position is kicking my tail....
  2. Well, I needed to check my rear pads, and while I didn't remove the claiper's to get a completely accurate measurement, I did eyeball it, as well as measure the piston imprint on the backing plate. It came out to about 35mm, close enough to 36mm, that I think the factory quotes on the STI BRembo's seem to be accurate. After recently driving a stock LGT equipped car, and then immediately stepping into my car, it was evident that there was more braking action coming from the rear on my car. IT just hunched down and stopped much better.....
  3. I just had a chance to measure the rear LGT caliper's on a bone stock '06 GT, and they indeed were 32mm!
  4. I have had full F&R Brembo's for a while now, and LOVE them:)!!! The stock brake pads are pure garbage. Period. Maybe the newer revisions changed the compound, but my early '05 had the crappy ones. I made the switch in stages: Front Brembo only: With stock Sti pads & rotor's. Huge improvement over stock, excellent pedal feel, and modulation. This was even with the stock rubber lines to boot. Front Brembo's w/2pc rotor's, Ferodo ds2500 pads and SS lines: Phenominal pedal response. The SS lines definitely stiffened up even the Brembo caliper's. The ds2500 pads are awesome, but pricey. Still had the stock rears, as I had trouble getting custom rear brackets fitted. Front & Rear Brembo's w/Ferodo's & SS lines: Words cannot describe the braking response from just leaning a toe on the brake pedal. With the addition of the rear Brembo's, the car really came together. As has been recently uncovered, the stock rear Lgt caliper's have but a 32mm piston to the Brembo's 36mm. So adding the Brembo's on the rear does alot towards shifting the bias rearward, and helping to balance out the braking. Brembo's F&R, 1pc rotor's, Axxis Ultimate's, SS lines: After chewing up the ds2500's, I looked for some less expensive pads, and these Axxis pads did the trick. They even have better bite than the Ferodo's. And cost 1/3 the price, so win win. Also of note, I didn't perceive any real difference between the much more expensive 2pc rotor's vs. the plain jane 1pc rotor's. So I will be sticking with the 1pc, and just toss them when they are worn, since they are economical enough to do so... I'm sure the Stoptech's, AP's, Alcon's or Brembo GT's would be even better. But, they cost a fair amount more, and like hp, the first 80% is pretty cheap, to get the last 20% is much much dearer.
  5. Yes, I did crank my AVCS to 40 from 1.2 load & up across the board up til the 3.6k area, then it was stepped down to zero. It did create more trq about 200 rpm earlier than my previous AVCS which was a little above the Cobb values. On the dyno, it doesn't generate the same amount of load seen on the real pavement, and especially with these bigger turbo's. On my way home that night, I started getting that dreaded driveline shudder in 4-5th gears, under heavy load in the 2.9-3.7k rpm band. I started dropping AVCS timing a little at a time, til it resolved it completely! I think my avcs peaks somewhere around 32, and tapers to 0. I rather lose a bit of trq, then to find out just how much trq that driveshaft carrier can handle;). Like it has been said, there are some gains to be had, but it isn't all that much, and you needn't spend a ton of time on it. Perfect your fuel/timing/boost curves instead.
  6. Really it depends on what the tuner did with the Primary Ign tables in the affected cells. Generally speaking, you need LESS timing if you add AVCS timing in. It is something you can add upon little by little to see when you need to make adjustments, or just leave it alone.....especially with anything smaller than a 20g turbo. Even then there aren't that many gains to be had.
  7. Not possible..... By using only a BM, you are effectively running the same map for RT. You see certain parameter's are stored in RAM, and the rest in ROM. In Cobb's lingo a Base Map is the ROM, and Real Time is RAM. So even if you pull power, and hard reset the ecu, the AP code will still load up a RT map. Whether it is the same as the base depends on who's map it is. With Cobb's standard OTS maps, the Stg1 & 2 BM and RT are the same. So if you had been running BM stg2 prior to loading a economy map, then just switch to the Stg2 RT map. IT will be exactly the same as the BM, except you will not lose learned fuel trims, knock correction, etc... Now this cannot be said for Etunes nor Protunes. Many tuner's choose not to store their intellectual property in it for other's to see. But other times they are forced to use an RT map because there isn't enough space for all the changes they wish to make. This is only a limitation of AP V1, as I understand it, V2 doesn't.
  8. Hey Rich, Here is what I turn off: P0137 - Rear O2 Sensor Low Voltage P0138 - Rear O2 Sensor High Voltage P0139 - Rear O2 Sensor Slow Response P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold P0545 - EGT Sensor Circuit Low P0546 - EGT Sensor Circuit High P1301 - Misfire Detected (High Temp Exhaust Gas) P1312 - EGT Sensor Malfunction P2096 - Post Catalyst Too Lean P2097 - Post Catalyst Too Rich And for my setup, I also have all the TGV codes off as well.... Actually, looking back, I'm not sure why the rear O2 is turned off? I think Cobb had this off, so I just left it...
  9. Nice work!! Takes a little more than an avg backyard mechanic's skill & patience...I think I would have chickened out, and removed the parts to get to the driver's side bolt, which is why I held off looking at mine until I replace the timing belt. What surprises me is the amount of sludge you had accumulated in 73k, using high quality synthetic oil. The filter's are not much of an issue....even though some definitely have more pleats, or higher bypass spring psi, ultimately from my exprience in trying various brands, they have all proved the same filtering capability in 5-8k drain intervals. Have you ever had any UOA's performed on your extended Amsoil OCI's? From the plugging up of your filter's, I would say the oil was not up to the job for that long an interval. I have 79k, and my filter was practically new looking. My OCI's have always been at least 5k, and usually between 6.5-7.5k miles. I have used plain 5w30 dino oil & high grade synthetics, they all came back with almost identical wear number's. I would highly suggest a few oil analysis' be performed to assess the health of your engine, as well as finding a suitable OCI for your conditions.
  10. No worries there.....That's the whole purpose of a banjo bolt:). The fluid travels throught the center of the bolt, and then follows the holes/groove at the head of the bolt. IT doesn't need any specific orientation.
  11. Rao has posted pics of exactly where it is(see first post in this thread), and it becomes super obvious with the turbo removed....
  12. SeeeeeYa, Interesting that the bolt didn't come with the screen. And that there is not a part # for it? Perhaps SOA has done away completely with these screens on '08+'s???? Anyone with an '08 care to look?
  13. ^^^Dude, wrong bolt! You pulled the oil supply banjo at the CHRA inlet. The one referenced in this thread is at the back of the cylinder head, just in front of the turbo. WIth the turbo in place, it is a tight fit to get at it. IT can be done, just need to have some patience.
  14. While not officially endorsed, the Tactrix can indeed be used with ST for live tuning. I have been doing so for going on a year now:). And while you still need the AP cable for Base Map flashing, and marrying/unmarrying duties, the Tactrix blows it away in every other aspect. The Tactrix is both smaller, and fits way better in the socket than the Cobb supplied cable. Not to mention that the Tactrix is USB, so no need to hunt for serial adapter's on today's serial less laptops;). I have seen the AP V2 cable and while it is smaller than the V1, it still employs the same connector style, and cannot be used with the opensource datalogger's.
  15. This was well north of Concord, NH. Where TDC is located. IT would be about a 1.5-2 hr drive from their shop location... Yes, I was there, and the car was with me:).
  16. Silver LGT, had 5 spoke wheels, and a TdcTuning sticker on fender. I think the town was Bartlett, NH. I was vacationing up there with the wife/kids & family. This was around 8am Saturday morning, at a Dunkin Donuts. Supposedly the only one around for miles. Seeing the TDC sticker has me believing you are on here:)
  17. Add me too! I'm official as of this morning:)
  18. I know, I should have picked some up beforehand.That's what I get for thinking I could reuse it. It is always the little stuff that get ya.... 2hrs of running around, and no one has it in stock:mad:! So, I hit up a Mitsu dealer, in hopes that they might have something in metric to work. Bingo!!! It is actually a fuel hose gasket, but it is a match for the stock copper ring!
  19. Yeah, the battery hold down clasp broke, so everytime I pull the SD card out it loses the date. Got tired of setting it, and am too cheap to buy a new camera..... I actually got turned onto ST filter's from BITOG, and they are made by Champion labs, same maker's of Bosch, K&N, and M1! Not a bad filter, and for $2.17 a steal! I have also had a number of oil analysis done, and it didn't matter if I had the ST or the oem filter, same results.
  20. Well, I have taken out and inspected my screen too! As you can see in the pics, the filter was practically brand new, there was a very tiny sliver of something, but it was hard to tell. After just a quick little spray of carb/choke cleaner, it was good as new:)! That didn't convince me to keep it in there, as I left it out. I did however manage to lose one of the copper washers. Now I need to hunt one down.... Anyway here are the pics, so you can come to your own conclusions. And BTW, my car has always seen synthetic oil from 5k up, and has also never seen an OCI interval of less than 5k, with the exception of early breakin period. I would say the majority of my intervals were in the 6-7k mile range. I predominantly used Walmart ST7317 filter's along with oem Toyo Roki's. Specific oil used was GC 0w30, PP euro 5w40, and now M1 HM 10w30. These are all HTHS oils, with at least a 3.5 Acea A3 rating. Very robust. I also currently have 76,719 total miles:eek:!
  21. 12mm x 16mm x 1mm. ID/OD/Thickness. Around by me, no one carries these types of washers in metric.
  22. And thanks for answering the question. I'll report back what mine winds up looking like.
  23. Maybe I used the wrong term, but they do compress to form a seal. When I tried reusing ones from the coolant banjo fitting, it leaked on me. Had to redrain the coolant, and then track down some new ones, as no one seems to carry metric ones:spin: So I assumed these would be similar?
  24. Why do you say that? They are soft, and made from copper to seal the banjo bolt/pipe to the head. W/o them it is a guaranteed leak. I haven't touched them yet, but planned on looking at my screen, and/or removing itwhen I pull the turbo to convert over to an LGT fitment comp cover.
  25. Have any of you that have checked the screen/bolt replaced the crush washers? Or did you just reuse the existing ones. Any concerns over having a leak from reusage of crush washers?
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