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Headlight clearing (w/pics)


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^ Yep. Plenty of APBs with this. Sister AKLGT's ABP was among the first, and was what inspired me to follow-suit. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 3 weeks later...
So I read from page 1 to 45 and saw no picks of cleared lights on ABP color models, Does it just look terrible or something? I want to do this but the lack of examples to my color scares me, lol!

 

 

You quit right before the magic happened. Page 45 near bottom are pics of my ABP freshly cleared.

 

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3737&page=45

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  • 3 weeks later...
I'd recommend using the heat gun method over the oven method. I've done both now with a few sets of headlights and the heat gun works just as well as the oven method as long as you are patient and work the heat around before prying them apart. The oven method is much, much easier to screw up and depending on where you place them in the oven and how close they are to the heating elements its uuuuuber easy to **** up.

JDM'd All to hell

:cool:

Thanks Jimmy @ Hkc-Speed.com!

RIP Coxx & Thanks

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okay i have a question , when you guys are blacking your headlights out are y'all prepping the surface like normal painting ( fine grit sanding , and a tack cloth ) then primer , paint ? or is it tear the headlight apart spray color put it back together , just wondering , my cars white im thinking about going with white headlights to be different , meh maybe not , black looks good and havent seen white done yet ( might not look good ) Edited by WTBmoreboost
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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm clearing my headlights out this weekend. Finally got off the stupid 08-09 bumper. (pain in the neck until you actually figure it out). Got everything pulled apart and am ready to pull apart the lights.

 

I wanted to know what type of silicone people are using to re-seal. I have searched around and noone has actually stated a brand that they have used and that works. I was planning to use a little silicone just to help make sure I don't have any breaks in the seal. I already have DAP brand Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone sitting on the shelf. It is for indoor/outdoor around the house projects and is waterproof. Will this work well enough or do I need to buy something else that is specifically silicone? Thanks for any comments.

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I wanted to know what type of silicone people are using to re-seal. I have searched around and noone has actually stated a brand that they have used and that works. I was planning to use a little silicone just to help make sure I don't have any breaks in the seal. I already have DAP brand Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone sitting on the shelf. It is for indoor/outdoor around the house projects and is waterproof. Will this work well enough or do I need to buy something else that is specifically silicone? Thanks for any comments.

 

DO NOT USE YOUR HOME DEPOT DAP ON YOUR LIGHTS!!! Auto supply silicone operates from something like -75 to +450 degrees. DAP does not. Auto silicone has excellent oil resistance, DAP does not.

 

PERMATEX

 

This is the shiznit:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesives_sealants/sealants/Permatex_Black_Silicone_Adhesive_Sealant_b.htm

 

Second choice (holt out for ^ if you can!)

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Black_Maximum_Oil_Resistance_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

 

DAP is for Honda CRX.

Edited by LosAngelesLGT
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I'd recommend using the heat gun method over the oven method.

 

It is uuuuuber easy to **** up with a heat gun - OVERHEAT an area and ruin your headlight! A heatgun roasting a spot by accident (or even burning yourself) will not repair but sitting by the oven and checking the headlight every 4-5 minutes gives peace of mind and even convection.

 

1. Preheat oven to 200.

2. Get cookie sheet and put several layers of newspaper on it

3. put you light on the cookie sheet, insert on lowest rack of oven (unless your heating element is actually at the bottom) making sure none of the light is too close to heating elements or the edges of the oven. (Do not let the edges/corners of the light touch metal.)

4. leave in for 20 minutes

5. remove carefully and pull apart with bare hands starting at the innermost tp, anywhere you have to tug HARD, heat up hotter with the heat gun.

6. Clear carefully not to smudge with dirty hands (remove the amber)

7. REHEAT the light sealing beutyl (it is beutyl right?) with the HEAT gun and slap it back together.

8. Option: reseal the outside of the light with black auto silicone

 

Please note: NEWSPAPER WILL NOT IGNITE AT 200F. The newspaper acts as a insulator from conduction (hot cookie sheet) by the hot cookie sheet allowing the light to be heated evenly by convection (hot air).

 

Thank you so much... I'll be out seaching the town today

Edit: just called around and found some... time to get busy.

 

Just dont add it in the seam when you put them together. Use the black silicone around the OUTSIDE of the seal so that nothing could get past the black you add to the original seal.

 

If you want to put the car back together while the silicone is still wet... The easiest way is to hold the light in your hand and cover the bottom and sides with the black gunk. Put the light back on the car brackets and THEN goopy the top seam on the headlight.

 

If you do 360 degree on the light good luck balancing them to try or putting them back in the car without making a mess.:lol:

Edited by LosAngelesLGT
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I really think that heat-gun versus oven is a personal preference thing - there's dangers to be had either way.

 

Even though I'm decent with a heat-gun (popped-out plenty of bumper skins before :)), I still favor using an oven, at low temps, for this procedure.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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