Tehnation Posted December 1, 2023 Author Share Posted December 1, 2023 Now I remember the major difference, its the top feed and side thing. The center piece between the manifold inlet pipes has a different shape to accommodate the top feed fuel rails. I had to butcher the oem top feed fuel rails I got to make it play nice with my 05 intake manifold when I switched to topfeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 (edited) I've got an 05 intake with JDM tgvs and 2011 wrx D25 heads. I think it's all pretty interchangeable. Edit: looks like you discovered some shape differences Edited December 2, 2023 by seanyb505 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 2, 2023 Author Share Posted December 2, 2023 The blox tgv and ks tech spacers came in. I must say they look and feel well made. Will take some pictures when I get a chance. I got them here for like $300. They don't make them anymore so all thats left is old stock I believe. https://www.jmautosports.com/product/blox-racing-5-axis-tgc-delete-kit-subaru-ej-series-black-bxim-51002-bk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 2, 2023 Author Share Posted December 2, 2023 Can a P2088 code come from the camshaft position sensor or is strictly the ocv and its wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 3 hours ago, Tehnation said: Can a P2088 code come from the camshaft position sensor or is strictly the ocv and its wiring? It's the wiring. Here is the diagram for troubleshooting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 3, 2023 Author Share Posted December 3, 2023 I bought a new engine harness, i' didn't want to start playing with wires. I need it anyway, because once you have one problem other problems are right around the corner when it comes to wiring harnesses. When I shake the harness things get all wonky. I just hope the issue is on the engine harness side and not the other side that goes to the ecu. If so I'm just going to replace the entire harness. I really don't like playing with wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 16, 2023 Author Share Posted December 16, 2023 I installed the 18" spacers and new tgv deletes, as well as the killer b turbo inlet. The turbo inlet is an absolute pita. You have to adjust and trim the coupler a bunch of times to get it to work right. I just barely got it to work but the front mounting point is not aligned. Not sure if thats cause I raised the intake manifold 18mm or whatever. The 18mm spacer does give a lot more room for the turbo inlet, allowing little to no interference from the tgv. Darkness caught me so I will make another attempt tomorrow. Also got my new engine harness, hopefully that nips any electrical issues in the bud, otherwise..... I need to buy more harnesses lol cause I am not troubleshooting wiring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 12 Author Share Posted January 12 New harness got rid of that code, and now everything is running good. Got the killer b turbo inlet to line up properly. Tons of power, the dangerous kind LOL! I love it, I can punch 7k rpm like its nothing and it seems it likes it. I go for a flex fuel tune next Friday, hopefully I can break 425-450 awhp. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 A lot of people dream about those numbers so post some acceleration videos so we can live vicariously through you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 I'll see what I can do, I don't really have any recording devices other than my phone, so not sure how I would record both windshield and instrument panel stuff at the same time, I think I can do one or the other fairly easily. Its funny but I love technology and hate it at the same time lol. Part of me is like, uploading footage of me doing reckless sht is probably not a good idea! The power I have now seems like plenty, I just have some hesitation between 2-3k rpm when easing into the gas, basically normal driving, WOT or a heavy foot and it works fine. Probably something with the tune, has always been an issue since the latest tune, I just drove away thinking car needs to learn and I didn't do much "normal driving" obviously lol, so it was overlooked until I calmed down days later and realized this isn't going away. Atm I like where I'm at where 93 octane gets me enough, granted I get rid of this 2-3k hesitation, and then having the option to get some more kiss my ass room when I fill up on e85 and pull another 65-100 awhp hopefully. Its like a nice little nitrous kit without all the fuss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 The quicker spool is going to blow your mind. 1 "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 I’m always more interested in the cluster view since the windshield view doesn’t do much justice even in an 8sec car. And whats reckless about recording yourself doing a pull on a closed competition course . Every legacy gt or outback xt I’ve ever driven has that same hesitation in that same exact spot, drives me nuts. Supposedly the Sti fpr is a fix for it and supposedly it isn’t. I grabbed one to try and it’s sitting on my shelf of mods that are waiting for me to not be lazy that I’m going to try out. The sti’s and non ej255 wrx’s don’t seem to have that issue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 And it snowed, melted and froze.... I got summer tires, its gonna be a pita getting it there Friday if it does not warm up and melt the ice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 K. I am lazy scrolling through the whole thread . So what turbo and mods did you end up doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Nothing really. I added an IAT sensor to my intercooler for tuning it with speed density, added the killer b turbo inlet, IAG AOS with competition kit so it vents all the air to the atmosphere, added DW FPR with a DW pulsation damper to smooth out fuel pressure, installed a new engine harness to get rid of some electrical gremlins, and the biggest mod would be installing the iBuildRaceCars flex fuel kit so I can run E85. Rather than spend like 5k+ on turbos, EWGs, FMIC etc. It made more sense to spend 600 on the kit to see if E85 can get me past 400awhp. If I can get another 75hp I would he content. I'm at 360 atm. This route is probably much safer for the motor as well. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subisubisu Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 On 1/14/2024 at 12:30 PM, blackobxt said: I’m always more interested in the cluster view since the windshield view doesn’t do much justice even in an 8sec car. And whats reckless about recording yourself doing a pull on a closed competition course . Every legacy gt or outback xt I’ve ever driven has that same hesitation in that same exact spot, drives me nuts. Supposedly the Sti fpr is a fix for it and supposedly it isn’t. I grabbed one to try and it’s sitting on my shelf of mods that are waiting for me to not be lazy that I’m going to try out. The sti’s and non ej255 wrx’s don’t seem to have that issue. Hear hear! With no windshield view, won't everyone just assume it was recorded on a closed competition course, professional driver, do not attempt? And while I don't have the specific STi FPR, I do have a Radium FPR replacing the stock unit in my 2005 OBXT, with the vacuum reference relocated to the BPV connection, and I have that hesitation in the 2k's. Plus now I have diminished hopes of getting rid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 I think its a tune thing, cause I didn't have it before, and I was already running the sti fpr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 (edited) On 9/26/2023 at 3:13 PM, Tehnation said: I already have a 20g, and it put down almost 360 awhp/trq, dyno results file attached to 1st post. I think @xt2005bonbon meant this. You're already running a larger turbo and built block... Cams too? Or am I misremembering that. Something about trying to push the powerband up into higher RPMs. Edited January 17 by KZJonny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 ah yeah. I thought he was on a vf40 or vf52. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Just now, xt2005bonbon said: ah yeah. I thought he was on a vf40 or vf52. Yeah, exactly. If those were VF40 numbers, I would be asking what the adjustment factor on the dyno was..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 -BC Stage 3 Cams BC0622 -BC Springs BC0600 -Manley Turbo Tuff Extreme Duty Pistons 632800CE-4 99.50 -17cc 8.5cr -Manley H-Tuff Rods 15024-4 -ARP Head Stud Kit 260-4701 -Subaru STi 11mm 15010AA360 Oil Pump -DeatschWerks EV 1000cc Top Feed Injectors 17U-07-1000-4, -Modified fuel rail from 07+ lgt fuel rail and 05 lgt fuel rail. https://www.legacygt.com/topic/104256-top-feed-injector-plug/ -DeatschWerks DWR1000 Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator on return line with vacuum source from OEM Recirculating Blow Off Valve, OEM FPR was replaced with Fuel Pressure Gauge -AEM 50-1215 fuel pump with upgraded wiring, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html -BNR 20g Billet Turbo -IP&T Turbo Oil Feed Kit w/Oil Filter -Cobb 3 Port Boost Solenoid -Grimmspeed TMIC -Grimmspeed Cold Air Intake -Blox Racing 5-AXIS TGV DELETE KIT and KSTech 18mm Aluminum Cylinder Head to TGV Spacers -MAPerformance 4-1 EL Headers version 1 -Catless Uppipe -CNT Bellmouth 3" Catless Downpipe -Manzo 3" Exhaust, I butchered in a resonator - looking to get rid of it. -FluidAMPR Harmonic Damper -Spec Stage 3+ Clutch w/ Lightweight Flywheel -Killer B Motorsport Extreme Flow HARD Turbo Inlet -iWire Hybrid MAF Wiring Kit with AEM IAT Sensor part number 30-2010, Welded the Bung to the TMIC -IAG Air / Oil Separator (AOS) IAG-ENG-7181BK with Street to Competition Series Conversion Kit IAG-ENG-7210 -iBuildRaceCars FLX01 - Flex Fuel Sensor Kit - Custom Order for 3 pin TGV I think thats about it engine wise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 So atm I can drive the car up to 7k rpm easy, but the tuner said if the oil pressure readings are correct then you can't go to 7 or 8k, which he doubted (oil pressure readings) cause he said it wasn't a good one, I have the Innovate oil pressure and temp gauge. I agree and getting a more consistent and accurate oil pressure gauge is on my list. He also said that it could be a blow by issue, considering its my 1st attempt at building an EJ motor i may have made my piston ring gaps to big, but then he said the PCV system is trash on these cars so theres that. So they recommended an AOS system with the competition kit to better vent the crankcase, which made sense. I'm not going to pull the motor until it blows up so at that point you just gotta deal with it. The possible issue is the excess blow by could be pushing the oil to the sides which screws with the oil pressure. So even though I feel and drive it over 6k rpm, they stop the dyno prior, from the dyno chart you can see that they let off around 6.1-6.3krpm, cause it shouldnt drop that steep if your foot is still on the gas and they said as much. Does the oem oil pressure sensor not send readings? If I recall correctly it doesnt.... smh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 As far as I know, we don't have an oem oil pressure sensor. I mean, it is a 'stupid' sensor which only turns on when you are below, like what? 2 psi? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 They said you want like 20 or 30 psi at idle or 1k rpm can't remember exact numbers, and then an additional 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. So if I had 20-30 psi at 1k rpm, which is my idle, I would need 80-90 psi for 7k rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 I can't make this stuff up..... so I'm driving and everything is running good, I mean when I romp the gas in 2nd gear the tires are breaking loose, so everything was allll gravy. Then all of a sudden it dies and wont start. I pull maf codes, so I start playing with that cause I'm in the middle of the road during rush hour traffic and everyones honking their horns. After like 15 minutes of fiddling I realize its the maf line that goes to the maf sensor. A long while back, I had some issues and now it seems that maf line thats running mighty close to the uppipe and turbo is getting hot and causing all sorts of nonsense. Old story short, when I 1st starting modding I installed an uppipe with a bolt in the bung for the egt, that bolt ended up shooting out like a bullet and the fumes and hot exhaust that came out the bung melted that maf line and shorted a fuse for the ecu, one of those odd fuses under the hood that you would least suspect. Now it seems this old injury is coming back to haunt me at the absolute worst fckin time when I'm about to go for a dyno tomorrow..... I just went to get some dinner.... and now this. So tomorrow morning I'm gonna have to figure something out. Shaking and moving the line away from the exhaust seemed to get it start again but it went out several times and I had to get out and shake the line to get the car to start again. Is there a maf line part number? I just want to replace the entire thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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