LegacyLGT05 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 Found the problem the injectors on my blown motor were bigger lol put them in and runs great now thx everyone for the help it's very appreciated 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 The last turbo car I'll ever own... The turbo just blew broke in half exhaust side was a wreck and intake side was ok so no metal shavings.. my coolant tank on top of the turbo one pipe broke so it starved of coolant... But now dropped my mellet one in and these codes makes it look like the damn banjo filters and I right?? Ffs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Did you remove the filters when you installed the used engine? Do you know the condition of the used engine? Those codes mean certain doom for the turbo (which is now gone) and potential doom for the motor too. You need to remove all 3 screens, flush the motor multiple times, and cross your fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 That is not a 'turbo car' problem, it's an old car problem. @rhino6303 is right. Best case scenario, you pull filters, clean OCVs and replace the oil cooler and flush the everloving crap outta your "new" engine. Low percentage chance it survives to boost on again. Worst case scenario, you already trashed it, so you're on the lookout for another EJ now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 The engine has 170000km and I should of took those screens out , hoping for the best working on it rn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 So one behind turbo on the head the other under timing cover, where's the third one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 One each in the actual OCVs themselves, where the oil feed line goes through a banjo and into the solenoid. Or maybe only one side has a screen, but I don't recall. I pulled all the easy ones a long time ago, and finally pulled the one out from behind the timing cover last year after spending a day grinding the nut down with a dremel. 170k kms on the engine should be 'new' enough if well taken care of to have some life in it still. Did you dump the oil yet, or cut open the filter to look for junk. If you find much of anything after destroying the turbo, it's rebuild time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 (edited) Some years have them for each OCV feed whole some only had it on one ocv. I recall the easy way to tell if there is a filter is if the banjo bolt has a hump on it. Hump is filtered, flat is not. Locations to check: 1. Turbo oil feed line 2. Passenger (right) OCV (easy) 3. Driver (left) OCV (difficult)-behind timing cover Link for walkthrough: Edited January 10 by rhino6303 added link 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 So it got no filters , but my oil Im starting to see miniscule flakes, oil cooler is expensive, can I just delete it and flush the engine with no turbo on it new filter afterwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Delete isn't a great idea unless you put an auxiliary oil cooler in somewhere else. The OE one serves to help warm up fluids when cold and cool when oil is hot. It's there for a reason. Get an OE one off of Ebay, like 1/3 the cost of going through a dealer. Temporary delete this time of would be fine, I would think, assuming you're having as warm of a winter out East as we are here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 Is diesel good enough to flush? here it's pretty cold down north -10 avg. -25 in full bown winter time.. so your saying I could run it like a week and be ok before getting an aftermarket cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Dude, I would start by dropping the oil, then pan and cutting up the filter. If you see stuff that's bigger than glitter, it's probably already game over. You'd be throwing good money after bad. Diesel would be fine to flush, cheaper than kero I assume. If you really want to give this thing the best chance it has to survive, you should at least consider pulling the heads and cleaning them, or having them cleaned and hot tanked. It's the maze of passages there that are probably going to hold debris and screw you over. Clean (or have cleaned) the AVCS gears as well. (Cam phasers, whatever you want to call them.) This shouldn't cost you more than a set of headgaskets and your time. If you have an engine stand you can work on, you should be able to get the rest of the engine as clean as possible by pulling the pan and running cleaner through all the oil passages, followed with compressed air, assuming you have a compressor. Even after all that I would very seriously consider something like a 1 minute run with the cheapest oil you can get, then dump + change the filter. (x repeat) All that is more time and money, but not tonnes, and it is a lot less than trying to source a new block, plus you'd end up with fresh head gaskets etc.... Given that it's winter in Canada, I think you'll be fine without the oil cooler until the Spring. You've got bigger fish to fry than right now. Save the money. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Flushed the engine like 5 times, cooler removed. cost me a bit but don't see much in the oil now , runs ok but misfire cyl 1/2/3 maybe I messed up some wires by unplugging removing most of it, put new plug n coils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 11 Author Share Posted January 11 Will check comp next. Thx again everyone without this forum I'd be at my wits end and lost lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 Comp good, runs better now it was a bad coil connector, but lean at idle but runs good ??? This is bad afr maxxed at 20 closed loop. Bad fpr? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Pressure test on fuel lines is as easy as putting in a tee and a pressure gauge, even one borrow from a compressor or whatever. Fuel pressure should be around 40 psi. Failing fuel pump/clogged internal filter? You had problems with leaning out before yeah? O2 sensor going bad maybe? You'll be doing damage pretty fast at afr of 20. I am 99% sure mine will run at around 12 until warmed up, then idle hovers and pretty much 14.5-7. No need for more than dead on stoichiometric burn at idle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 16 Author Share Posted January 16 Ran 15aft idle max 14.9 but now maxed at 20.23 or something.. will check pressure , what I'm stumped about is a little blip of throttle and it dips to 12-13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 Sounds like a vacuum leak. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Good pressure so got my diy fog machine out and this is what I found lol nothing on the blue T , my first time I see it coming off the intake manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Runs like a champ but a t WOT 5k and past that it studders , changed all plugs and coils same thing and not a single code but only thing was the #4 cyl plug was rich as hell so put that new stuff in , went for a lil pill and same studder.. new code pending #4 misfire , pulled plug . It looked like it was burning great tan colour , checked voltage at connector and was good bent the coil tabs a bit, cleaned MAF . Afr 14.3 idle but runs mint other than that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 But it's -19 here I was thinking maybe overboost? Can't find my vag cable , recently moved and my boost gauge hose broke so can't really know for sure. Was thinking on playing with the wastegate since the one I got on is adjustable . Thx again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 On 1/16/2024 at 8:14 PM, LegacyLGT05 said: Good pressure so got my diy fog machine out and this is what I found lol nothing on the blue T , my first time I see it coming off the intake manifold Throw a couple of zip ties on those if you can reach. Better yet, replace with a barbed ‘tee’. The blue one, I’m sure you’ve read does tent to let go, since the plastic is smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Don't go WOT if you're having problems. It's a good way to blow another motor. As to why, it sounds as if you're experiencing knock and the engine is pulling enough timing that you can feel it. You need to pull a learning view and post it for us to help with troubleshooting. No more WOT. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Ok thanks will look for my vag and log.. in the meantime is it fine to drive it like a grandma just for a day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Probably best to stay out of boost as well, if you need to get around in the meantime, and haven't diagnosed the problem correctly. *Most likely* fine to drive for the day, but you pays your money and you takes your chances. You can change the hoses on the wastegate to allow only spring pressure to build, but your best bet is going to be stay under whatever RPM you normally start seeing boost. 3K or so for most? Using only minimal throttle will help as target boost is of course related to pedal position.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now