LegacyLGT05 Posted December 7, 2023 Author Share Posted December 7, 2023 Passed a car and the car started loosing power I'm guessing oil starvation and oil pump let go.. after I tried starting it wass almost seized but it started and as soon as I heard knock I shut it off ..The motor still turns but wont start , time to pull the thing out.i need advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 (edited) You CAN do anything. How deep is your wallet and how good are you with making custom wiring and programming an ECU? If you want a 3.0L, which you should want, best to get the whole car it came with and all the wiring + the automatic trans that they all came with, and want to talk to. People have mated them to manuals, but from my reading, not usually without a standalone ECU. etc.... Consensus is a 2.5 turbo rebuild is $4-6k including a new short block, unless you happen to be an engine builder. Plenty of threads on that in the engine ECU folder, or should we google that for you? Edited December 8, 2023 by KZJonny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 8, 2023 Author Share Posted December 8, 2023 Uderstand . Will check that and My pockets have more lint than cash rn, also there's a ton of 2.5i could that be swapped with the ecu of the 2.5i and key and ignition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 8, 2023 Share Posted December 8, 2023 Sorry the hear that man. Honestly, if you're low on cash, probably your best bet is to part the GT, or sell it on for what you can get and put that towards something else. Not that you CAN'T transplant an EJ 253 or whatever into the chassis, but the exhausts won't match up and you'll need the 2.5i harness, etc... LOTS of electrical differences in the engine bay. If you can find a donor car in a scrapyard that doesn't charge too much, then maybe it would be okay? But there are some interior differerences,especially if you have the Limited integrated HVAC control etc... and I do not know how they interact are controlled by the ECU. May or may not work out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 8, 2023 Author Share Posted December 8, 2023 Quick peek from the pan, think the oil pump let go or sum, 2 burnt rods and seems like the mains might be fucked too? I see the crank ears rubbed the bottom end not sure... Would the ej255 heads bolt on the ej253 bottom end and is the crankshaft the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 8, 2023 Author Share Posted December 8, 2023 Burnt as heck, alot of play on the conrods that turned black, just the two rear cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 9, 2023 Author Share Posted December 9, 2023 Ok my plan is to buy a full engine gasket kit, a low mileage donor ej253 motor for the bottom end aka middle end new rods, con bearings , rings and if I see ring land failure new piston and rings, get the heads lapped and cleaned, resurfaced new oil cooler? Check the pistons and wrists pins while at it or just buy the whole shabang.. Are the 253 rods the same as 255 or not I think I still need to get the crank ground cause if it was the same I'd just mark the caps etc and use the same but not sure if It will be ok to throw new rods n bearings on a used crank if the crank is mint ? New valves etc I hope my cams are ok.. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 9, 2023 Share Posted December 9, 2023 Talk with the machine shop. My trusted family friend told me, it was cheaper for me to buy a new ej257 short block and have them rebuild the heads. They also assembled the long block for me. Looks like your oil pick up tube cracked and fell off. Late 05-early 06's had a issue with that tube. I don't think a ej253 will be a good match for your heads...(?) Have you found proof that they will bolt to a ej253 ? Read my, click here link to see how to do it right the first time. 1 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 9, 2023 Author Share Posted December 9, 2023 Same crank diff rods and pistons and read that 253 heads fit on 255 block just diff rods length. So assuming my 255 heads will bolt on the 253 bottom end My heads are fb25 and put new ej255 pump In the 253 bottom end il pulling the motor rn I need to research more but might get a whole 255 but have to pull the engine no matter what Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 9, 2023 Author Share Posted December 9, 2023 Will pu 255 oil pump on 253 bottom end but first gotta check my cams and heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Couple of things to consider if you're really going to go with a 253 block and all 255/7 internals. The blocks would definitely be similar, but are you sure they have all the same ports for oiling and coolant for the turbo. The factory won't always maching everything if it isn't required for the application. I don't know, but it's very possible an EJ253 won't suit the turbo, etc... Add up all the costs for parts, and the tools you'll need to either have, borrow or buy to complete a bottom end rebuild, calipers, mics, bore gauges, etc.... and the skills to use them at engine building level accuracy. Small mistakes at that point could be super costly, like trashing the rebuilt engine. Not shit talking here, and if you have all the skills and tools, then great. Nevermind what I'm going on about, but there is a reason that lots of folks around here, even those who really probably can rebuild a bottom end choose not to, and save up for a new SB. You get a new 0 mile block, that's at least been assembled as well as Subaru can do it. The cost difference between all new internals + working over the donor block and getting one assembled may be worth the time + tooling you save. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) Your right about the oil passages and turbo oil feed and drain but I'll do more research and maybe tap somewhere for the feed and drain . Also the coolant lines, I'll get the block for 120$ it has 113000km . From there might decide on getting a 3.0 30D Edited December 10, 2023 by LegacyLGT05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) Hi All, I have a similar problem to this on my LGT B 2007... Idle is unstable issues all started after the secondary air pump blank off but from the feedback I received from the Subaru specialists that would not cause this issue. The MAF has been replaced, Plugs, O2 cleaned. None of it makes a difference. Symptoms: Poor idle (If I add 100rpm in Romraider it idles at 850rpm and seems to idle better) Random Lag (When hitting the throttle there is a significant delay in acceleration) Lag in Boost (When around 4000 - 5500 rpm the car rpm and speed will not increase for a moment then the car will launch, while in this state if I let go of the throttle the car gives a huge jerk) I have attached some logs and not sure if my issue is similar to this but I really don't know what to try any longer.... PLEASE HELP... romraiderlog_20231210_152025.csv Edited December 10, 2023 by Deltaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) @Deltaking Check for KC, knock when doing a pull. For me the fix was up pipe rattle aka loose heat shield registering as knock,, I put in new plugs/coils and had some broken rear 02 sensor wires. Check for boost leaks after maf to throttle body. Intercooler leaks, unplug the MAF and if the hesitation is gone at 4-5k it's boost leaks. Edited December 10, 2023 by LegacyLGT05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 No lose heat shields... Will try the check with the leak and see what happens thanks for the feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 Ok I went scratching again and found that 2 wires were torn (not broken) and you could see the copper wire sticking out on coil 4 adapter. So I soldered it up, taped it up and it's driving better but still has a strange thing happening. I let the car warm up till fans switched on then switched off and on again then took a drive... No problems till I was almost back home. When trying to accelerate in gear 2 car has a delayed response. Didn't pick it up on gear 3 or gear 1. Couldn't test gear 4, 5 & 6 because it was a road with bumps... Idle is better but isn't perfect. Didn't get to check boost leak but would assume I can scratch it off as it isn't doing what it did before in the 4000 - 5500 rpm range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Block torn into, cylinders are fine no broken ring lands surprisingly... Top heads lightly scored and on the cams caps and top head side , mains look ok ,bah feeling like sending my top heads for repair but then cams etc too expensive gotdamn puzzle ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Found a whole ej25 for 500$ 200000km is it worth it if I redo timing belt n remove avcs filters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 36 minutes ago, LegacyLGT05 said: Found a whole ej25 for 500$ 200000km is it worth it if I redo timing belt n remove avcs filters EJ 25(5)? For that money, 100% yeah. If you have any kind of compression numbers etc… or can have a quick look to make sure nothing is terribly wrong. $500 (cad?) for a 200k km long block is good. Around here, that’s what you’ll pay for an engine with known knock, just parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 (edited) Do you think I my exhaust cam and top of the headsare rebuilt able? So I could part them out Edited December 10, 2023 by LegacyLGT05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 @deltaking check and remove driver side avcs banjo filter and passenger avcs turbo feed line banjo filter. If you ever get a p0011 or p0021 , could affect idle and power loss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 10, 2023 Share Posted December 10, 2023 47 minutes ago, LegacyLGT05 said: Do you think I my exhaust cam and top of the headsare rebuilt able? So I could part them out Better to ask a machinist. Based solely on two photos where they are still covered in oil an schmutz, no, not really Cams look damaged beyond use without weld + grind. And as you can see there are no cam bearings, they’re line bored and honed. So the heads may be cooked. Hard to say without a proper full cleanup and assessing how bad those grooves are. So, maybe good for fodder if someone wants to put the money into a full rebuild? For comparison, I sold a set of B25 heads +cams + valves covers last year that had zero damage to another member here at mate’s rates for ~$300 USD…. so….$425 CAD for a set that were ready to use? Machining and repair is likely $5-6 hundo at least. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 11, 2023 Share Posted December 11, 2023 About the $500... how long do you plan to drive this car ? Is the body in nice shape, not much rust ? I'd put that 500 into a new ej257 and "do it right the first time". 1 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 11, 2023 Author Share Posted December 11, 2023 Sadly where I'm from there's not much for sale just two ej255 for sale, the closest ej257 I seen are in Quebec , all of the salvage yards have 0 ej255/7 just 253s and a 3.0 . and yeah the body is mint no rust still has paint under the rear subframe and body , that's why I Wana keep it cause it can save me from spending more on a another car with transfer taxes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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