KZJonny Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 BtSSM is a free app now apparently. Might be worth looking in to once you get set up. Torque is pretty good. Do you have the paid version? It has more options available. It can definitely give you a misfire count or roughness by cylinder, whatever it calls it, but that might not be an option on the free version... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 11, 2023 Author Share Posted October 11, 2023 btssm needs a dongle that supports ssm and my Vlinker MC eml dont. I have torque pro and cant find misfire count Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/reading-misfire-count-with-torque-pro.313121/ Yeah. I see. Seems like either it will work or not depending on the obd scanner and the ecm model and year. Bummer if the option isn’t in a menu somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 12, 2023 Author Share Posted October 12, 2023 So got my new coils, they were not cheap but still it runs the same. Checking for leaks rn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 12, 2023 Share Posted October 12, 2023 18 minutes ago, LegacyLGT05 said: So got my new coils, they were not cheap but still it runs the same. Checking for leaks rn Ah... sorry to hear that man. This is the problem with using the parts cannon, sometimes you win, others not. On the plus side, you can at least rule out the coils, and I think you said the plugs had good colour, so without more diagnostic tools at your disposal, you can probably tentatively rule out spark as the problem at idle anyway. When you get the new cable and can start doing some more in depth diagnosis is when reasonable theories as to the underlying problem can begin to be formed based on data.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 15, 2023 Author Share Posted October 15, 2023 Got new injector seals , runs the same... well ok so I had a leak but wasn't sure . Thought the hiss I was hearing was just coming out the turbo oil drain tube since the tube is hard/old its not sealed completely but metal tube is in the pipe . Bam my turbo is leaking from the cartridge , not from the back side clamp but from the front. Not sure if this is the cause of my misfire but might be the problem of my power loss... is this re sealable with some high temp gasket maker like motoseal? Sucks cause the turbo is tight and dont feel like trashing it for that . Ah and now my turbo oil feed line is leaking behind the head , will get at that too when I take the turbo out . Runs better maf unplugged and thinking that leak would b the same as a post MAF leak. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 15, 2023 Author Share Posted October 15, 2023 (edited) Ahhh no just thought of it im not sure if I can seperate it unless I remove the inlet turbine wheel to get the back plate off?? $#### Edited October 15, 2023 by LegacyLGT05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 15, 2023 Author Share Posted October 15, 2023 (edited) Weld im screwed unless i jb weld it or somthing.. but just for a picture. Its the middle part u can see old sealant well theres my leak. Edited October 15, 2023 by LegacyLGT05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 People have had success installing new cartridges when the turbo housing is fine, and there hasn't been any damage to any compressor fins etc..... I don't have anything to say about that, since I did leave that job to the pros (JMP in my case.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 24, 2023 Author Share Posted October 24, 2023 (edited) Got a Melett cartridge Installed, no more leaks. Not sure if a turbo needs a break in but I primed it with the coils unplugged then let it idle for like 15mins , drove the car easy for the last two days of instal. Maybe the plugs I got are Just bad , checked the spark plug gap to be sure. It runs way better and just went max boost today for two or three times , it builds boost good, but at WOT it falls on its face. It feels like the rpm climbs very slow starting at 4.5k rpm all the way up 'in any gear""" with slim to not much more acceleration when it happens. ""And still, with the maf unplugged I can feel it pulls a little better in the highs in all gears but then pcm detects that its unplugged and my car just stalls. Plug it in and starts again. Also my idle is very low, maybe because I skipped the idle relearn ? Tried three different MAFs from buddies same thing Ordered a Tactrix and its supposed to get at my place in like a week or so. its soo annoying when such beast aint at its peak xD Thank you for your time Edited October 24, 2023 by LegacyLGT05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 24, 2023 Author Share Posted October 24, 2023 in neutral it can rev high no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 24, 2023 Share Posted October 24, 2023 No load in neutral, and the ECM won’t let the boost build…. Kind of a safe mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 30, 2023 Author Share Posted October 30, 2023 Hey dude , Tactrix almost at my place.. I messed arround and the car and pulls great with the vac hose off the FPR.. i did see a drop of fuel from it ,so im suspecting its bad. Idle pressure 34.. When the pump primes it goes to 51 and sometimes the pressure drops to 0 with just the key on. Plugged the vac hose and map pressure is higher than before. Sometime it will cut at wot like if a coil was discnected but they are al tight and bent the tabs. Sometime i get a code misfire cyl 1 and cyl 2 so maybe a chaffed wire somewhere? But still rough idle after unhooking fpr . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 30, 2023 Author Share Posted October 30, 2023 But before unhooking the fpr vac line, i could only go wot with no hesitation only after gassing up for 1 time but thats strange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 Fuel pressure rises one psi with each psi of boost pressure. 1:1 ratio. Reference for this is supplied by the vacuum line to the FPR. Remove it and you are locked at a single pressure and destined to GRENADE your engine. Do not play with fire. You need a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (even temp) to verify pressure under idle, load and boost. If you have a bad coil or wiring to the pack you have a misfire all the time. If you get the wires to the coils backwards you get a misfire (and probably a no start) all the time. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 7 minutes ago, m sprank said: Fuel pressure rises one psi with each psi of boost pressure. 1:1 ratio. Reference for this is supplied by the vacuum line to the FPR. Remove it and you are locked at a single pressure and destined to GRENADE your engine. Do not play with fire. You need a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (even temp) to verify pressure under idle, load and boost. If you have a bad coil or wiring to the pack you have a misfire all the time. If you get the wires to the coils backwards you get a misfire (and probably a no start) all the time. 30 minutes ago, LegacyLGT05 said: Hey dude , Tactrix almost at my place.. I messed arround and the car and pulls great with the vac hose off the FPR.. i did see a drop of fuel from it ,so im suspecting its bad. Yeah. This. Stop disconnecing things like the MAF or vacuum lines and driving the car, especially if you're not sure what that function of those parts is, etc... If the car 'drives better with the MAF disconnected', you've got problems somewhere, and driving without it is absolutely not the solution. It's been a while since I've not had an AP to help me diagnose things, but I believe the engine CEL codes will at least tell you if you are getting a misfire on the #1 or #2 bank? Knock sensor has some calibrations to sort out noise like that, I think. IF SO, did you try moving the coil packs from side to side to see if the misfire follows? If not, then hopefully you can see where misfires are coming from on the tactrix soon. FPR should be mainly sealed to fuel, but it's not unheard of to get a drop or two on the other side of the diaphragm. If you suspect it is on the way out, either diagnose as Mike suggested to confirm fuel pressures or fire the parts cannon again. A mechanical vacuum gauge is cheap and can be teed into the line easily enough. Look up Shralps(?) write up on changing to the STi fuel pressure regulator instead of replacing the LGT one, if you find that yours is on the way out. Not necassary, but it is an improvement and takes up like 1/4 the space in the bay that the OG one does. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 30, 2023 Author Share Posted October 30, 2023 Yes i plugged it back in i think i already got the sti fpr not sure but hrres an old pic of my engine when the intercooler busted that wasnt too loong when i got the car and noticed the fpr hose was off probably since i had the car. Last thing is injectors or knock , but now going to read up on how to use tax and romraider or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 30, 2023 Share Posted October 30, 2023 That does look like a STi type FPR, yes. I would also suggest keeping the hybrid BPV at full recirc, especially if you are troubleshooting. Best to lose the noise and have no metered air leave the system, but people seem to like noises more than performance sometimes. Good luck with the daignosis dude. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 So before I come back with some proper logging data. Oh and I forgot to mention something... Would it be possible that the timing could of skipped a teeth or so from a failing tensioner? The last good pull was when all of a sudden the car backfired thru the intake, jerked then stalled in 3rd gear. I was able to start it after it happened but I cant remember if its at that exact moment I lost high rpm power with rough idle. Even to this day sometime taking off lightly it will pop thru intake and almost makes me kiss the windshield" lol So I got a brand new gates timing belt kit that was in the trunk when I got the car, since I cant do anything more to really find out the true root cause of my issues, ill go and replace the timing belt and idlers and the tensioner to keep me busy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted October 31, 2023 Share Posted October 31, 2023 Timing belt isn't going to hurt anything, and being off by a tooth will definitely cause some rough running, so it's never a bad idea to replace those parts. Especially if you don't know how old they are. I barely drove my GT after buying it until I had time to do the timing belt kit, for fear of it being old/aged out and me not knowing it. It was in decent shape when I pulled it, but showing it's age, and probably OE therefore 15 years old.... Moreover, I would definitely consider doing at least a compression check, and preferably that + a leakdown on your engine before you start throwing more money at it. If you've done a 'pull' and by that I assume it means you hit boost, with the FPR unplugged (almost certainly hit disastrously lean condition) among other problems... and you have the above described symptoms I wouldn't be very concerned about not whether or not you've had bad knock, but how much and if there is damage to the rings or ringlands. Those are the kinds of conditions that grenade engines. The test are simple and cheap even if you have to buy the tools, and if they results come back OKAY, then you can have some condfidence moving forward. If you've got a bad cylinder that is misfiring because it can't hold compression now.... it's rebuild time, and no amount of fiddling with a tactrix and coils will fix that.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 31, 2023 Share Posted October 31, 2023 I would check timing. A tooth off can run, though not well. Considering the new info I would make it a priority to verify timing and then perform a compression/leak down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearJamr Posted October 31, 2023 Share Posted October 31, 2023 Speaking from experience, if the timing belt tensioner goes south, you won't be driving. Mine luckily died in my driveway, engine died. When I went to restart, got a lovely screech sound, and pushed it inside. Got a tow to the garage, they changed everything, and fortunately everything has been good (engine related) since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 Ok so i was getting knock , found bolts hanging next to the knock sensor , removed those and fixed some rattles. Pulls great now but takes like 8 secs to get to 60 mph. Compression is good I bought the car from a guy who bought the car from a guy, and the guy I bought it from told me it had a vf52 when he got it but it didn't idle. He then told me he swapped a vf40 in and was better. All he knows, the car has a perrin intake , 3bar map, 255lph, 3 port boost control solenoid , uppipe no cat , catted downppipe with obx racing catback... is it possible that this was just done with a tune for the vf40 or there should be a vf52 in the car and thats why my car so slow ? Lol and now the lgt is now going in closed loop a few second after a cold start?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 What were the compression numbers on each cylinder. 8 Sec to 60mph isn't great, but if the tune was for the VF52 and someone just decided to throw in a VF40 you could be waaaay off on a lot of parameters. Especially with the 3-port. I believe the 40/52 behave quite a lot differently in regards to wastegate duty. That said, the VF40 comes on boost pretty quick, and under 60 it should come close to the 52 in general. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted December 7, 2023 Author Share Posted December 7, 2023 So bad news I just spun a bearing , compression seems ok no rods went thru the bloxkwhat is the best thing to do? Can I swap a 3.0 6 ? I can only find a same engine in my area but he wants 1k 180k miles good running already out? I can find a low mileage 3.0 for 400. Or rebuild kit? Send me threads so I can learn thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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