LegacyLGT05 Posted December 18, 2023 Author Share Posted December 18, 2023 So I was tearing up my old block to see if the mains were good but the damn flywheel torq stripped and I took the sledge hammer and busted the whole thing found 3 piston with broken ring lands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 Quote 9 hours ago, Max Capacity said: I seem to recall the seal between the turbo and timc is the same as the T'stat gasket for a small block chevy. You can get one from any auto parts store. https://www.google.com/search?q=small+block+chevy+T+stat+gasket&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=small+block+chevy+T+stat+gasket&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCjEyMjkyajBqMTWoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Unfortunately isn't the same but this wouldn't just be easily available in my country either XD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 3 hours ago, LegacyLGT05 said: So I was tearing up my old block to see if the mains were good but the damn flywheel torq stripped and I took the sledge hammer and busted the whole thing found 3 piston with broken ring lands Which engine did you end up getting? The EJ205 or the EJ255 and is this on the engine you just got? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 (edited) 8 hours ago, Deltaking said: this wouldn't just be easily available in my country either XD If you put your location, or at least country in your signature/information it'll help people to get a better idea what may or may not be available. Where in the wolrld is there no aftermarket for a small block chev engine? Somewhere deep in Europe? 12 hours ago, LegacyLGT05 said: I took the sledge hammer and busted the whole thing found 3 piston with broken ring lands Are you saying you broke the block apart with a sledgehammer? If so, that alone might be why you've got those broken ringlands..... Edited December 18, 2023 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, KZJonny said: If you put your location, or at least country in your signature/information it'll help people to get a better idea what may or may not be available. Where in the wolrld is there no aftermarket for a small block chev engine? Somewhere deep in Europe? Are you saying you broke the block apart with a sledgehammer? If so, that alone might be why you've got those broken ringlands..... Just added it now... South Africa If it's not original I may as well 3D print the thing lol. Oh yes and it's not the same part as the chevy Edited December 18, 2023 by Deltaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 41 minutes ago, Deltaking said: Just added it now... South Africa If it's not original I may as well 3D print the thing lol. Oh yes and it's not the same part as the chevy Well, welcome to the party. Not too many members here from South Africa, but a couple from the Continent in general. Mainly EDM guys, but we're all here 'coz we still like this old girls. I only have a little experience with the twin turbo models, and that is limited to driving one when I lived in NZ for a while. (A friends car, I just took it for a spin.) Or is the SA GT-B different than those from other parts of the word? Most people just did the twin delete for a single more modern turbo, but I am sure you already know that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 (edited) Isn't the twin turbo version the 2.0T? can't remember... Mine has a single Turbo, twin is all good an well but too much more room for error and more work... My car is an ADM model when pulling ECU Subaru Liberty 2.5 GT B (Its the Sti Tuned version by the looks of it but could be wrong). Have attached ECU extract Edited December 18, 2023 by Deltaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 1 hour ago, Deltaking said: Isn't the twin turbo version the 2.0T? can't remember... Mine has a single Turbo, twin is all good an well but too much more room for error and more work... My car is an ADM model when pulling ECU Subaru Liberty 2.5 GT B (Its the Sti Tuned version by the looks of it but could be wrong). Have attached ECU extract Ah! That was a long time ago, and we never got GT-Bs here in Canada, so I'm not super familiar with which years got what in that regard. What is the difference in the ADM car, out of curiosity. It's still the 2.5L then, presumably with a VF46 and the plastic intake etc....? Even the USDM Spec B cars are essentially the same except for suspension and the 6MT... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 Yeah this is what I have gathered since driving the car over mountains and working on the car Turbo - VF46 Yes Pretty much the below without navigation in place of glove box (I have bought one though, its nice to have an android screen and bluetooth but it feels like it takes something away from the interior when its installed. So I removed it for the time being until I can get over it lol) https://www.whichcar.com.au/reviews/2007-subaru-liberty-gt-spec-b-review Not sure what the power or torque differences really are but torque generally stays up there (320 - 330) from 3600rpm to around 5200rpm. I'm going to take if for a tune early next year to see what the car can really do... The car really drives fantastic when everything is working... (After all the previous work mentioned lol) The car just has this way of telling you I can do alot more and your just playing around with me... Take off is slow (Turbo - Gear 1) but from previous posts I don't have a real significate amount of lag even outside of boost at around 3500rpm just in Gear 1. I mean I could increase the idle from 750rpm to 800/850rpm and then that slow/delay is gone in gear 1 (Tested with Romraider logger) just not sure what leaving it like that does to the general performance and don't generally like pushing hard in gear 1. I generally don't really drive the car hard only while I was trying to solve this problem thats why my logs barely have 100% throttle open but when checking the logs today in boost between 4100rpm and 4800rpm mph from 60 to 70 takes 995msec, the same more or less for mph from 70 to 80 but don't have any other untuned Legacy GT B 2007 to compare the stats too. (Note this was while I had the boost leak and strange idle problem so I don't know what it would look like now) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 18, 2023 Share Posted December 18, 2023 Oh apologies, heres a link as well to thingiverse. People design parts for the cars you never know what you might need... Some of my designs are there too. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=subaru_Legacy&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 25, 2023 Share Posted December 25, 2023 Hi All, So just an update... I have been driving the car for a while and it is much better. It still has a random dip in RPM on idle and in some cases there is a delayed response in throttle. It isn't consistent so I am really not sure what to check any more. No leaks found anywhere, compared ECU with Base map and they are identical. O2 sensor readings seem fine swopped MAFs back and forth not much of a difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 25, 2023 Share Posted December 25, 2023 Ok Guys so I double checked the spark plug they gave me which was one step colder... This is what they gave me (It seemed to make sense due to gap but I just noticed something the reach is totally different... Could this be causing my issue and does what I'm thinking here make sense? If the reach is too short it would definitely cause misfire and issue I previously mentioned?) https://www.ngk.com/ngk-2667-bkr7eix-iridium-ix-spark-plug This is the original as I understand according to Subaru part list https://www.ngk.com/ngk-7913-silfr6a-laser-iridium-spark-plug https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2007_Legacy-GT-B-SEDAN/SPARK-PLUG-------------------------------NGKSILFR6A/49231673/22401AA670.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted December 25, 2023 Share Posted December 25, 2023 1 hour ago, Deltaking said: Ok Guys so I double checked the spark plug they gave me which was one step colder... This is what they gave me (It seemed to make sense due to gap but I just noticed something the reach is totally different... Could this be causing my issue and does what I'm thinking here make sense? If the reach is too short it would definitely cause misfire and issue I previously mentioned?) https://www.ngk.com/ngk-2667-bkr7eix-iridium-ix-spark-plug This is the original as I understand according to Subaru part list https://www.ngk.com/ngk-7913-silfr6a-laser-iridium-spark-plug https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2007_Legacy-GT-B-SEDAN/SPARK-PLUG-------------------------------NGKSILFR6A/49231673/22401AA670.html Most of us run LFR7AIX https://www.ngk.com/ngk-2309-lfr7aix-iridium-ix-spark-plug BKR7EIX could be an issue, as they seem to be much shorter in their picture compared to the LFR7AIX or the stock SILFR6A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted December 25, 2023 Share Posted December 25, 2023 Thanks Infosecdad, I put in the spare ones I had which I removed... the ILFR6B which isn't apparently recommended for the 2.5T not sure why as its practically the same spark plug spec as the original. After replacement the car has no jerk or hesitation nor idling strange... Oh and Merry Xmas to all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Guys where can I get those rear cam bolts to set toe, mine are frozen up need a PN#. And also what is this ribbed pipe ? My blown engine doesn't have that and the flange on the head is closed idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 (edited) Pipe is for the secondary air pump just move the blank offs over there should be one on each side of the engine. Edited January 1 by Deltaking 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 @LegacyLGT05 Since you opened your original engine... From what I understand the rods should be forged as well as the crankshaft... Are you able to confirm? The pistons are not on all vehicles as I understand it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10148232&cc=1430733&pt=10259&jsn=849 You'll very likely have to cut the old ones out if they are seized. That has been the case for most people anyway. A carbide tipped metal blade and a recip saw are the usual formula for success. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Ok so the ej255 I got is taller? Cause of the EPA shit and has top feeds will this fit or I need to cut my hood the oil drain is lower ?? Paid 1500 for this shit will my tune for my intake and map sensor and 3 port work if I put it on it and idk could switch my old side feed but got no gasket rn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Is it possible it's a 07 WRX engine? It has d25 heads top feed and air pump will this fit and work if I swap my sensors or it wont Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 1 hour ago, LegacyLGT05 said: Is it possible it's a 07 WRX engine? It has d25 heads top feed and air pump will this fit and work if I swap my sensors or it wont Dude. Chill out and make some sense. What engine did you get and from where? Your posts read like texts from someone in middle school. We’ll help, but not without a little background info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 I know but Everybody has their personal problems and my English is ass .. I'm stuck and no car but I spent my last bills for the engine, not sure if it will fit in my car it's a top feed d25 ej255 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 (edited) 1. Buy an air pump delete kit to replace the metal pipe on your new cylinder head. 2. Use the intake manifold, tgvs, and side feed injectors from your old engine. 3. The turbo oil feed setup is different for D25/W25 heads than B25 heads. You can swap your B25 setup over and plug the top port. See the following images in this pdf to help visualize the differences. Your heads have either type B or type C. https://www.iagperformance.com/content/instructions/IAG/IAG-ENG-2072/AVCS-Turbo-Oil-Feed-Line-BB-Turbo.pdf 4. If you swap the intake and side feed inector setup over, you shouldn't need a retune. Your new CR will be slightly higher and a retune would help but in general you should be good. Edited January 3 by rhino6303 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLGT05 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 Hey everyone, now the leggy got codes for misfire 1,2,3,4 and p0171 lean code, won't idle and can drive but afr stuck at 20.29. wot is choppy but when I go wot afrs drop at 12.9 - 13 . Is this clogged injectors? I put new 02 and acting the same , when I unplug MAF it runs mint but stalls then won't start back til I plug it in... 22 hg vac , tested no leaks checked all connections all good it just randomly started to do that and got those codes ran fine day before. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Not totally sure on this one but would check the fuel pump and regulator first, think you can get a reading in Romraider. Then perhaps the fuel rails on the injectors since it's missing on all 4 cylinders. Think the other events may be a result of the ECU trying to do corrections but I could be wrong here... Think its the below readings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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