08SpecB_DE Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Sorry Sub, I thought you had a shimmy when hitting bumps in the road. You debunked your own theory, if the caliper is not biting properly, the car would pull to the side that is doing the braking. There is a chance that the brake hose is collapsing and not allowing the piston to retract or the piston is getting stuck and not releasing, causing aslight drag and the shimmy. Do the pads move freely in the brackets? Are all the pads evenly worn? Do the guide pins float with little to no resistance? I find those rubber sleeves jam up. Do any the pistons compress tighter than another? Do the rotors have a clean wear surface? Do you feel the shimmy in the body or does the steering wheel shake as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 The car has had numbers sets of rotors in the 16 years I've owned it. But yes, when I picked up the NAPA rotors from being turned, I was told those had quite a bit of run out. I have the rotors that were on it last Summer and they were turned by the same shop and nothing seemed out on them.... Sounds like your rotors have never been measured for runout mounted on the car, only when mounted on a lathe? On the car axial (aka lateral) runout should be 0.002" or less, per Subaru specs. If you already own a magnetic base and dial indicator this is a no cost trouble shooting step. If runout exceeds 0.002" reindex the rotor on the hub after cleaning the mounting surfaces, and measure again. Here is one example of the runout variation seen with a new rotor on an old hub: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/importance-hub-cleaning-measurements-timken-hub-assembly-228582.html how to measure runout: https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/brake-shop-measuring-brake-discs-hub-flanges/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) Sorry Sub, I thought you had a shimmy when hitting bumps in the road. You debunked your own theory, if the caliper is not biting properly, the car would pull to the side that is doing the braking. There is a chance that the brake hose is collapsing and not allowing the piston to retract or the piston is getting stuck and not releasing, causing aslight drag and the shimmy. Your point is absolutely valid, however at implies an assumption that the other side is actually biting substantially stronger thus pulling car to the side. What if it does not? What if the flow to the other side is more severely restricted? So one side is somewhat trying to bite and the other side does not bite at that moment with any comparable force? Do the pads move freely in the brackets? Yes, they do. At least at the moment of the installation I made sure they are freely moving. Tabs are greased with copper grease. I have all new hardware - all calipers are NEW OEM. Same problem is there as with old original OEM calipers. that i had rebuilt once to no recourse. Are all the pads evenly worn? I believe so. This problem spans several sets of pads and second set of rotors, so... Do the guide pins float with little to no resistance? I find those rubber sleeves jam up. Yes. There is more to this. I did put new OEM pins when I had original calipers rebuilt with OEM kit and new rubber sleeves, greased properly after cleaning caliper mounting holes for those pins. Still had the problem. Then I bought 4 new OEM calipers with new brackets and new pins. In both cases I could move the caliper in bracket by hand. Do any the pistons compress tighter than another? This one I am not sure since I did not test this. However, I'll repeat that this problem spans original OEM calipers, then these original OEM calipers getting rebuilt with Subaru OEM rebuild kit, and finally new OEM calipers that are on the car now. Do the rotors have a clean wear surface? They do. These rotors are less than 2 years old. I thought about rotor surface since as I mentioned before sometimes when I roll to a stop I get a periodic/pulsing drag as if a sector of the rotor has different resistance that the rest. In this case I feel that the car body "waves", as if that pulsing drag is only present in one corner. When this happens there is nothing on the steering wheel. Sometimes you get pad material deposit that can cause this, but I have not been able to pinpoint that to be the case. Again, this problem spans several sets of different pads, and two different sets of front rotors. Both Centrics. Do you feel the shimmy in the body or does the steering wheel shake as well? Only the steering wheel at speed when the shimmy is most noticeable when it occurs. The body does not shake - except when rolling slowly to a light as described above. Just to rule out the pads and rotors, I am thinking about just going OEM for both sometime in the summer when I'll have more time and free money to start throwing money at this problem again. The intermittent nature of this and the fact that other people with these cars are seeing this issue makes me believe this is more likely to be related to wear/detoriation of parts than to incorrect settings/adjustments, tire pressure or alignment. I have driven my car and other Subarus we have with mismatching/incorrect tire pressure, alignment out of specs, and cheap pads that were wearing unevenly. These problem show different symptoms. FWIW, my oldest son's 2005 NA OB is at 238K, runs on cheap Autozone rotors and pads that I had to file to fit in calipers, and still has original OEM calipers that are rusty beyond recognition. I never rebuilt the calipers unlike on my LGT. It has one of the rear calipers dragging and in severe need of replacement. Despite all of that, it never had the shimmy and always brakes on straight line without pulling to either side. I drove it many times and brakes on it work great. Same body/suspension arms and almost all other brake system components as on my LGT. Go figure. Edited May 21, 2020 by SubOperator spacing... 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 I agree Sub, I think this has something to do with wear/ deterioration of something rather than incorrect settings / alignment. Really don’t want to keep throwing money at ideas that won’t work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) One thing I'll add is that at some point during my active Auto-X years I ran ATE Super Blue Dot 4 brake fluid. Not the racing blue DOT 5.1, since that one damages seals on street cars, it was just easier to flush brakes as ATE was offering Super Blue and Yellow 200 DOT 4 brake fluids at that time. Now I wonder if that did anything to my brake system components up the stream from calipers. I do flush the brakes on my LGT *somewhat* regularly, like at 2-3 year intervals. and I used Yellow and Blue so easier spot when fresh fluid would reach each caliper. I have since switched to Pentosin (few years back) but have lingering suspicion something may be not right in ABS controller - since it is the only point afaik where the pressure lines split to individual corners. I am almost willing to take the ABS controller off and flush it, or put a spare one I took off Mike HAMMERDOWN's LGT when I parted it out on my car and test that. Another thought is to check if services that offer rebuilds for BMW ABS controllers can tell something about that. Our cars ABS controllers are Bosch so chances are Bimmers run them too. I know in Roundel those ads are present so there has to be something about that. Edited May 21, 2020 by SubOperator 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 I agree Sub, I think this has something to do with wear/ deterioration of something rather than incorrect settings / alignment. Really don’t want to keep throwing money at ideas that won’t work... I also think the same, todays drive home at 70mph sometimes much more...there was a very light shimmy most of the drive. The past two day's it was pretty much shimmy free. I will say I do notice this set of Conti DWS06's seem to flat spot more then other sets in the past. I don't feel anything in the drivers seat now that I had that left rear wheel with a hop in it fixed. I keep going back to the Hub on the right front. That OEM unit has been on there since 2013 I think. The left front has been replaced last Nov. There was no mention of the hub being a concern during any of the work the two different shops did. I remember after I replaced the first hub when it went bad the intermittent shimmy went away. But that hub was making noise and showed itself to be an issue. I didn't realize the intermittent shimmy was a sign a hub was going bad. But I have been chasing this shimmy for over 8000 miles. If the right front hub was bad...it would have failed by now. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Sub- Have the hoses ever been replaced? I think its safe to assume the calipers are fine so you can rule them out. I would think if there was an issue in the abs module, it would throw a code for a dump valve or something of that sort. I think the keyword is "intermittent". Can you pinpoint when you feel it the most (i.e. after driving for an hour in the city, only cold in the morning, after heavy braking, etc)? I concur with it not being an alignment issue, for some reason I was stuck on a shimmy after hitting bumps or dips in the road. This may sound silly but if you guys frequently wash your cars when the brakes are hot, it can warp the rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Nothing upstream from calipers was replaced, all is still factory original. I will probably check FSM for ABS codes, wonder if the module does the work but if there is some debris it does not have the smarts to detect something going haywire. I do have stainless steel braided brake hose kit ready to go on the car but Max's experience with replacing the hoses kinda cooled me off. I wish there were a pattern to what causes the shimmy or when it happens. I tried to pin it to ambient temp, engine (engine bay more likely) temps, load, tires, or pads. Alignment is not that either - I spent too much money going to alignment appointments. Car got aligned once by a master technician at local Tire Pros shop and it drove beautifully. It did not however get rid of the shimmy. Car wash is not my problem I think. Whenever I wash my car at home it's typically sitting for few hours on my driveway. If I do it at work, the car wash is about 1.5-2 miles from the office and I don't believe brakes are that hot when I get there, there are 3 lights on that distance. I am happy this thread was started by Max, at least we can bounce ideas of each other. Btw one of my front hubs is still original iirc... No noise but makes me wonder... 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 I normally wash the cars in the driveway before i driven them. But I will say in my 50 years of driving, I have noticed the rotors steam when they are hot when you wash the car. I try not to fo that. Even on a nice day in Winter when I go to the car wash on the way home from work. The place is a couple miles off the highway, so I think the brakes have cooled a bit by the time I get there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 Today on the way into work the highway rt84 west had low traffic levels. I was able to drive in all three lanes with CC at 63mph. In the right of course it drifted right slowly. in the left lane it would tend to stay straight but would slowly move left. The second time in the center lane going down a slight hill, very slight, I was surprised how far I could go hands free before the car did anything. I mean it was good for at least a 1/4 mile. I assume that lane was pretty flat. A few miles later when the asphalt ended and change to cement the ride was much smoother. That rt84 (exit 64-66) section in both directions has had a number of paving issues in the 10+ years I've been driving on it. West bound is some of the worst pavement around, it really is a mess. I have learned the smooth path through the 2 mile section over the past year or more. There's another guy at work that drives the same road and he complains about it too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 Has any one tried one of these ? Do you think it would help solve the issue ? https://www.perrin.com/shop/drivetrain/steering-dampener-lockdown 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Has any one tried one of these ? Do you think it would help solve the issue ? https://www.perrin.com/shop/drivetrain/steering-dampener-lockdownIt's cheaper to just buy and use a solid steering joint from an sti. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 One of these from a junk yard ? would be less money. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&ei=ogIKX_PBHa-zggfgsoIw&q=subaru+sti+solid+steering+column+joint&oq=Subaru+STI+solid+&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgAMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjoECAAQRzoECCEQCjoICAAQ6gIQjwE6BAgAEEM6BQgAEJECOgsILhDHARCvARCRAjoHCAAQsQMQQzoLCC4QsQMQxwEQowI6BQgAELEDOggIABCxAxCRAjoCCAA6CAgAELEDEIMBOggILhDHARCvAToECAAQCjoGCAAQFhAeOggIABAWEAoQHlDW2QFY84kDYM2jA2gCcAN4AIABqAGIAfsQkgEEMTYuN5gBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXqwAQo&sclient=psy-ab 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 One of these from a junk yard ? would be less money. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&ei=ogIKX_PBHa-zggfgsoIw&q=subaru+sti+solid+steering+column+joint&oq=Subaru+STI+solid+&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgAMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjoECAAQRzoECCEQCjoICAAQ6gIQjwE6BAgAEEM6BQgAEJECOgsILhDHARCvARCRAjoHCAAQsQMQQzoLCC4QsQMQxwEQowI6BQgAELEDOggIABCxAxCRAjoCCAA6CAgAELEDEIMBOggILhDHARCvAToECAAQCjoGCAAQFhAeOggIABAWEAoQHlDW2QFY84kDYM2jA2gCcAN4AIABqAGIAfsQkgEEMTYuN5gBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXqwAQo&sclient=psy-abYes. 08+ sti linkage should fit. I bought one for $45 from ebay a couple of years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 Yes. 08+ sti linkage should fit. I bought one for $45 from ebay a couple of years ago. Thanks, I'll look into that once the cooler weather show's up. Only have a few more weeks of driving the wagon everyday. Retirement is less then a month away. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Thanks, I'll look into that once the cooler weather show's up. Only have a few more weeks of driving the wagon everyday. Retirement is less then a month away. Enjoy it! Congratulations! 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Awaiting results with bated breath. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 Did some searching, found this. Thanks Febreze Mee https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-sti-solid-steering-linkage-2005-lgti-250270.html I'll PM boxkita and see if its really an easy bolt in. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Did some searching, found this. Thanks Febreze Mee https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-sti-solid-steering-linkage-2005-lgti-250270.html I'll PM boxkita and see if its really an easy bolt in.It is. It only installs one way. Tip is to remove the bolts and then slide the linkage up and over the rack. Then move it down and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 (edited) It is. It only installs one way. Tip is to remove the bolts and then slide the linkage up and over the rack. Then move it down and out. Thanks, I have a retired buddy a few miles from me that wants me to come over and use his two post lift any time I want. This will be a good project for us when the weather cools off a little. I can find new ones for around $135.00 part number 34170AG022 I'll keep looking around the web and junk yards, I have a couple junk years I can ask to get one too. Edited July 12, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 13, 2020 Author Share Posted July 13, 2020 Yes. 08+ sti linkage should fit. I bought one for $45 from ebay a couple of years ago. Found one on ebay for $45.00 should be here by July 20th. Thanks, 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Sweet. I'm eager to hear the results. While you're in/under there will you please take pictures? If anything I would just like comparison picture between the LGT & STi linkage. Thanks in advance. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 13, 2020 Author Share Posted July 13, 2020 Looks like its a under thing. I checked the Spec B last night quickly and there's way to much stuff in the way from the top. The one I bought was from a 2014 STI. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I just installed the Perrin lockdown a couple weeks ago. Did it from underneath. Drove up on ramps, clamped it in (didn't have to loosen anything) 20 min total Easy peasy from underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 I just installed the Perrin lockdown a couple weeks ago. Did it from underneath. Drove up on ramps, clamped it in (didn't have to loosen anything) 20 min total Easy peasy from underneath. Whats that? any links? I love buying sh** lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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