Max Capacity Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) Update, dropped off the wheel today, he said it will be ready tomorrow. $80. Dropped off the AM Auto PArts rotors at Eastwoods Auto Machine. While Mark and I were talking, at a safe distance, I noticed in the lighting that those rotors were beginning to show the same raised portion on the outer edge of the inside surface. They'll be ready tomorrow too. $60. Brembo pads, I should may be call tirerack and see what kind of warranty they may have. The steering rack is made by https://www.mavalgear.com/ I might drop the NAPA Premium rotors off with Mark and have them turned too. I'll coat them with some light grease so they don't rust. Mark Eastwood did correct me and said he will grind them. Edited April 27, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 The pads don't cover the whole surface of the rotor? That looks odd, don't regular pads cover the whole thing? Since Max's replacing the steering rack didn't fix the shimmy projecting on my car with same/similar issue that leaves braking system imo. Since I replaced whole calipers/pads/rotors I am going to go up the stream starting with brake hoses. My MC is still original, I have to figure out if that may be the culprit. One observation I made is that very very rarely I noticed while rolling to a stop light the car would feel like something was grabbing on one of the sides, in sync with wheel turning. As if a sector of the brake rotor had different (more in this case) resistance to pads. It would only last a few seconds but would happen sometimes. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 The pads do cover the full surface, the outside of the rotors shows full coverage. Its funny that both inside surfaces on two sets of rotors show the same. Must be the Brembo Pads. My trusted Mechanic called today to see how the car was. I told him about the rotors and pads. I'm stopping by shortly to show him the NAPA rotors and Brembo pads. Then, the next stop is a 1/4 mile down the road to Eastwoods to pick the other set of front rotors and drop these off. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 Had the car back together and on the ground in under an hour. Test drive of 3 miles on the highway at 68-72 mph was good. No intermittent shimmy. Tomorrows drive to work will be the real test. CarQuest premium ceramic pads and freshly ground rotors from AM Auto Parts. Both the trusted mechanic's and Eastwoods were amazed to see the odd wear in the Brembo pads and both sets of rotors. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 The pads don't cover the whole surface of the rotor? That looks odd, don't regular pads cover the whole thing? Since Max's replacing the steering rack didn't fix the shimmy projecting on my car with same/similar issue that leaves braking system imo. Since I replaced whole calipers/pads/rotors I am going to go up the stream starting with brake hoses. My MC is still original, I have to figure out if that may be the culprit. One observation I made is that very very rarely I noticed while rolling to a stop light the car would feel like something was grabbing on one of the sides, in sync with wheel turning. As if a sector of the brake rotor had different (more in this case) resistance to pads. It would only last a few seconds but would happen sometimes. How long ago did you replace the brakes? Take everything apart and see if any of the pads are wearing unevenly. Make sure the guide pins slide easily and the pads aren't stuck in the brackets. Many people dont realize running through a cold carwash after driving around for a while, will warp rotors quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) On the drive into work on the first highway RT84 there was a very slight shimmy, but when the pavement changed from asphalt to concrete it stopped. On the RT291 to RT91 to RT20, all multilane highway's some asphalt or concrete all was fine. Brakes feel real good. I also updated the first post as I found some errors in it. Sorry. Updating my note book for the car now. Do any of you keep a written record of things you do on the car ? Edited April 29, 2020 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 How long ago did you replace the brakes? Take everything apart and see if any of the pads are wearing unevenly. Make sure the guide pins slide easily and the pads aren't stuck in the brackets. Many people dont realize running through a cold carwash after driving around for a while, will warp rotors quickly. I believe the calipers and pads were changed last year. I made sure the pads move freely in the brackets, as I had problems years back with some cheaper pads. Pads end points are lubed with copper grease. I may try putting OEM rotors on as I grew suspicious of aftermarket rotors quality lately. Then again my oldest son's 05 OB runs Autozone rotors and as cheap as they are the brakes on 05 OB are just fine, I drove on the highway many times. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I always found the Napa Ultra Premium rotors to be great to use. The aren't the cheapest for sure but definitely a less than your typical "performance aftermarket" rotor. Part of me is getting suspicious of my nice DBA 4000 rotors on my Outback. Would get them turned to ensure that everything is flat but no one wants to turn a slotted rotor around here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 On the drive into work on the first highway RT84 there was a very slight shimmy, but when the pavement changed from asphalt to concrete it stopped. On the RT291 to RT91 to RT20, all multilane highway's some asphalt or concrete all was fine. Brakes feel real good. I also updated the first post as I found some errors in it. Sorry. Updating my note book for the car now. Do any of you keep a written record of things you do on the car ? Not to rain on your parade but in my experience the shimmy goes away after some work is done with brakes, only to come back few weeks later. So keep an eye on it, may be early to call it gone. I used to keep detailed log but then got lazy. I do however keep all the receipts for parts ordered as well as for oil with date of oil change. In fact I make a copy of the oil receipt (thermal paper of original receipt fades away quickly), then cut out the sticker portion of the oil filter box, write date, oil brand/type and mileage on the top of that cutout and then staple those together. That whole thing goes into the file folder for the car. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 So here's another observation, when the car drives over some bumps (bigger ones) on the highway, I can almost feel the steering wheel shimmy during the impact. I don't recall the Spec B doing that over the same roads. Again once the Conti's DWS's warmed up the intermittent shimmy is gone. Seems these set of DWS's flat spot more then others in the past. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 How old are your struts? How often do you rotate the tires? Can you get a printout of your latest alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 The Koni's have been on there since Jan 15 2013 at 166,500 miles. That thought has been in the back of my mind for a while now. There is no indication they are getting worn at 124,500 miles. These tires have been rotated since they have been put on. They have less then 3000 miles on them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 The drive to/from work today was pretty good. May be I'm being to picky for a car with 291,000 miles. No shimmy going over the bumps (bridge expansion joints) on the highway. Tirerack has offered new pads at 50%. I'll take them up on that offer, as there is no warranty on these pads. I can use them on the Spec B when it needs pads, I'll be picking up the NAPA rotors from the machine shop tomorrow after work. So I went to Tireracks site to check things out and stumble on to the sale on the Koni Yellows... Have to stop spending money...retirement is coming soon. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 New tires feathering in under 3k would be struts or the alignment. I just put the DWS on my car about 1500 miles ago and they're smooth and quiet. It does sound like the struts aren't keeping the tires grounded but I'm getting more and more curious to see the alignment sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 2, 2020 Author Share Posted May 2, 2020 Oh, sorry, I forgot to ask about an alignment sheet. I'll assume the car is "in spec" or someone would have said something about it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 I would assume so too, especially if it's a shop you deal with regularly, but it would be nice to rule it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 Yes this shop has aligned the car a number of times over the years I've owned it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 I would expect the shimmy from wrong alignment to be permanently present, not intermittent. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 The toe can be out the same on both sides. Hitting a bump can exacerbate that and cause a quick shimmy in the steering wheel. It would also explain the quick feathering of the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) I get BMW CCA's Roundel magazine, and one of the best sections there is Tech Talk by Mike Miller, a very knowledgeable guy (from what I recall he has a 2005 NA Outback as his winter car). Was reading recent issue today and came across this gem, highlighted the part that may be of interest in context of this discussion here. Now with my 2005 I am right at 15 years mark and few seasons of AutoX may have made the front brake hoses suffer more than they were designed for. Brake hoses were one of my potential suspects as I ut early in this thread: Edited May 5, 2020 by SubOperator 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Great...more money to spend... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Great...more money to spend... Sorry Max. This looks more realistic to me especially given the fact that after some hard braking the shimmy goes away for some time. May be extra pressure in the brake system causes ID to increase to allow brake fluid to work as intended. I have a new set of braided brake hoses but they say do not replace just the fronts with braided and rears are a bitch to do. I am thinking about just buying new OEM front ones if they are not too expensive and trying that while I swap to summer tires. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) pshhh... you know you want stainless steel brake lines front https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HJO2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 rear https://www.amazon.com/StopTech-950-47505-Brake-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0031HSCWC/ref=psdc_15721801_t1_B0031HJO2Y Changing them isn't that bad, took me a couple hours to change all 4, highly recommend using line wrenches. Edited May 6, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 I have a set in the box on the shelf and line wrenches bought for this very job. When I went to change rears, I couldn't undo them no matter how hard I tried. After several engine rebuilds I am not easily scared by a wrench job but here I backed out before doing some damage that would make car sit without brakes at all. So no stainless lines for me yet unless I pay someone to do it. Hence thought about front OEMs since they should match OEMs in the rear. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Remember to pull out the locking clips first, they won't unbolt unless the clips are out, then you unbolt the old line from everything, the brackets, the caliper, etc. You will then have enough wiggle room to maneuver it into an easier position. Spray them down with some liquid wrench or pb blaster first. The hardest part of install was getting the tension and positioning of the new lines right, but after you figure it out the other side is easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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