BoozeRS05 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Got a handful of used parts for my specB: Front and rear solid endlinks Rear sway bar braces Fumoto valve RA flaps I know it's only a cpl hundred bucks, but I'm actually trying as hard as possible to not buy parts. That's the best I could do for now.. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Been running with Morimoto led fogs that were brighter than the headlights. Threw on an Innovited HID kit and adjusted the headlamps. Everything is much better, and they really compliment the yellow LED fogs. Reverse cable came in, PO installed the short shifter... Got the newest revision, looks nothing like what I have besides the length. Different material and it actually has a boot on the exposed cable by the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apacman316 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 recently got OBP 05 wagon. very clean. I used to have GC8 with 04 STI BBS gold wheels. Never got around to selling them. Luckily I didn't. Put them on over the weekend. Beautiful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 recently got OBP 05 wagon. very clean. I used to have GC8 with 04 STI BBS gold wheels. Never got around to selling them. Luckily I didn't. Put them on over the weekend. Beautiful. Pictures...or it didn't happen 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 (edited) Fixed it! Or not. Now I’m getting random super lean/rich spikes. Great, now the issues is intermittent Ordered 20ft of milspec shield avionics wire for the MAF signal wire. I think I have enough automotive grade TXL wire for the rest. Probably going to wire in a cutout point to make swapping the IAT sensor to the post IC one simple. Now the question is how far into the harness do i need to cut back and replace. I have enough wire to get all the way to the ECU, but as it’s like 35C and 90% humidity outside I don’t really want to dig that far into it. Also noticed the engine/ECU grounds are a bit sketch with a 0.2V drop between the driver side TGV ground point and the negative terminal on the battery. Probably need to redo that as well, but I’m not sure how to go about doing this without causing major ground loops. Not taht the OEM system doesn't have them, the block is grounded to the body in at least four places. Maybe one of the other engineers on here with more recent experience with sensor wiring/shielding/grounding might have some tips? Edited July 12, 2019 by utc_pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 First order would be to replace all the stock grounds, give all points of contact a good cleaning and sanding/polish to ensure you're getting good metal-to-metal contact. A difference in ground between TGV sensor ground and battery negative isn't necessarily important; a difference between the TGV sensor ground and the ECU signal ground is a different story. How are you measuring the voltage drop, just a pure 2-point measurement with a DMM? How accurate and how precise is your meter? I personally have difficulties getting millivolt-range measurements with a two-wire handheld DMM with any sort of consistency, especially since it's so heavily dependent on probe contact. I'd really only have confidence in a 4-wire (Kelvin) measurement. My main suggestion is to not worry about any ground loops or similar... the car ran fine from the factory with the stock wiring and stock grounding points, right? I'd expect a simple refresh should eliminate any issues there, unless you're pulling some serious current e.g. for a high-power stereo. In which case, beefing up the stock grounds is probably sufficient. I'd expect your problems could lie elsewhere. On-topic: heads off to the shop. Biding my time till the machine work is done and I can bring the shortblock to them for full assembly. Still need to put the oil pan back on, and clean the deck and pistons before I bring it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 A difference in ground between TGV sensor ground and battery negative isn't necessarily important; a difference between the TGV sensor ground and the ECU signal ground is a different story. The ECU grounds land on a bracket mounted to the back of the drivers side TGV. It's kind of a pain to get to the ground point directly, so I just hit the TGV. I haven't checked the grounds on the TGV sensor connectors. So what I'm implying by that is the ECU ground was at a higher than chassis ground. The MAF is (probably) fine with this as it's ground is the same ECU ground, but in seeing this it makes me wonder about all the other random stuff I have hooked up piggy backing off stock sensors but chassis ground. How are you measuring the voltage drop, just a pure 2-point measurement with a DMM? How accurate and how precise is your meter? I personally have difficulties getting millivolt-range measurements with a two-wire handheld DMM with any sort of consistency, especially since it's so heavily dependent on probe contact. I'd really only have confidence in a 4-wire (Kelvin) measurement. Well I learned something new today about what that is! Measurements were taken with the UNI-T UT210E I keep in the car (it has a DC clamp on meter, super handy for car stuff) with normal test probes. So not super super accurate, but it was enough to think "Hum.... This is higher than expected"... I have a Fluke 117 and some clip on probes that I could use for more accuracy, particularly when I go try to find the MAF wiring fault. My main suggestion is to not worry about any ground loops or similar... the car ran fine from the factory with the stock wiring and stock grounding points, right? I'd expect a simple refresh should eliminate any issues there, unless you're pulling some serious current e.g. for a high-power stereo. In which case, beefing up the stock grounds is probably sufficient. I'd expect your problems could lie elsewhere. Come on, we don't mod and tweak out cars because it ran "well" from the factory . I obviously don't think this is going to add power or anything that those crazy JDM aftermarket grounding kits clame, but if I can reduce the noise in the aftermerket sensor data and improve battery recharge charge time might as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 Finally got around to take my car to get smoke tested for the evap cel I’ve been getting for awhile now. Good news they only charged me $25 for the smoke test, bad news is I need a new gas tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amptramp Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 Carrying on with the grounding discussion, I used to have a 1993 Impreza (first year of production and mine was the third Impreza to come into Canada). I checked grounding and it seemed it could be better, so I added ground wiring. The result was a wonderful improvement once - then the learning feature of the ECU took over, it was back to how it originally ran. I would still consider doing it even though I haven't done it on my car because ground problems may show up over time due to corrosion and poor grounding can make some tuning problems and CEL's show up that cannot be fixed without adding better grounding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 Thought I had a small exhaust leak. Tried tightening the bung on the CNT DP near the turbo and was able to tighten it a good 3 turns. Now I'm hearing a clicking noise. Had a co-worker who's very good with cars confirm it's an exhaust leak this morning. Only thing I can guess is sealing off the bung increased pressure enough to cause another leak to become more apparent. Taking it to an exhaust shop tomorrow to get fixed. Never ends Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 O/F change on the wagon. Rotella/Mazda filter. 236,770 mi on stock block; 136k mi and 9 years on IP&T S2 e-tune and HexMod EAT. Still passes douche bags in Priuses real quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 O/F change on the wagon. Rotella/Mazda filter. 236,770 mi on stock block; 136k mi and 9 years on IP&T S2 e-tune and HexMod EAT. Still passes douche bags in Priuses real quick. You're a damn inspiration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dease42 Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 Finally got around to pulling the engine from the 2005 that's been sitting for a couple years - lost a timing pulley and been waiting to rebuild. Technically did that last weekend, but pulled the second head off yesterday and getting them cleaned up. Going to take it into a local Subaru shop and get it analyzed, but it's looking better than I expected honestly. The car lost a turbo around 100K then this happened after another 15k, I'll be really happy if it's salvageable. What do you guys think? It's not great, but I don't see any obvious signs of destruction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 Are you having the heads rebuilt or just cleaned ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dease42 Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 Are you having the heads rebuilt or just cleaned ? Depends on what they say I guess. If I can get away with cleaning, that would be ideal. Not looking for anything crazy from the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Earlier today....what do you guys think; add a duckbill or not? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 I have the CF Stanza duckbill that I installed about a year ago. Sometimes I love it and sometimes I don’t. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 I have the CF Stanza duckbill that I installed about a year ago. Sometimes I love it and sometimes I don’t. Same one I got... can you post some pics? What is it about it you hate at times? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Changed my oil, replaced the upper and lower rad hoses with new spring clamps, replaced both oil control valves. You guys weren't kidding about B1 ocv being a pita! The worm clamps kept loosening on my rad hoses which caused a very slow drip that was worse in the winter. The hoses were fine but I opted to replace them anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsports Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 (edited) Replaced front wheel hub (drivers side), belts and wiper blades (LoL). Car quiet again. Wife happy. 157k. Edited July 14, 2019 by shadowsports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Ripping apart the donor '05 outback (88k). Gonna take the engine/tranny/diff for mine, along with the black interior. I'll have a part out thread in the next week for the parts left that I think may have value for someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Got around to replacing the reverse cable finally. It's nice to be able to hit 5th and 6th without being careful. On that note, very easy to not adjust it correctly, the wife can hold the collar up while you make final adjustment. Looked at putting the rear diff inserts in, nuts were too rusted and I don't have a 6pt wrench at the house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 DEI lava wrapped my perrin ELH since my ceramic coating was peeling off after nearly 9 years and that desert heat. Definitely noticeable cooler intake temps. Changed my upstream o2 sensor too. Still deciding if I want to install that CF duckbill spoiler along with the jdm spats too. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 Got around to replacing the reverse cable finally. It's nice to be able to hit 5th and 6th without being careful. On that note, very easy to not adjust it correctly, the wife can hold the collar up while you make final adjustment. Looked at putting the rear diff inserts in, nuts were too rusted and I don't have a 6pt wrench at the house. For rusty fasteners PB Blaster or even better Aero-Kroil is great. Give them time to do there job. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 (edited) I second Aero-Kroil. I wasn't sure whether everyone was just drinking the marketing kool-aid, but when I tore down my 180k mile parts car Kroil allowed me to push the front 2 axles out with a finger and the rears with one gentle tap from a 2lb sledge. Got the diff down without any worries too. Edited July 14, 2019 by awfulwaffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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