What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Febreze Mee]

Yesterday, I checked tire pressure, oil level, and set out for a drive with @ckwaters and @Captain Redbeard and another friend. 

Tacoma > Eatonville > Orting > and back up to Sumner for breakfast.

Today, I dropped the car at East Valley Auto Repair in Kent, WA for"verification of engine installation by an ASE certified mechanic."

Looking forward to getting the car back this evening so I may put more miles on it.

[Enlight]

Removed my VF52 to get ready for the @JmP6889928 treatment. Removing the silicone hoses was very difficult as the worm drive clamps dig into the soft hose. The clamp held on so tight that the worm drives backed themselves out before the clamps loosened. I've ordered some non-stripping/embossed clamps to see whether they will help. Received my new fuel line kit from Torque Solutions as the IAG ones were too stiff and didn't fit the LGT very well due to the location of our throttle body.

Where do people mount their FPR's if they have a brake master cylinder brace? @Infosecdad had a very nice DIY bracket at ECM '23.

[KZJonny]

8 hours ago, Enlight said:

Where do people mount their FPR's if they have a brake master cylinder brace? @Infosecdad had a very nice DIY bracket at ECM '23.

I’m assuming you mean the STi FPR swap? Mine is held up by the fuel lines, it weighs nothing, so shouldn’t cause any stress wear over time.

If you are still using the gigantic stock unit, see above!

[Enlight]

I have an Aeromotive A1000 now. I'm basically following the parts list I got received for my estimate from Prime Motoring except doing the work myself.

[Enlight]

On 6/15/2023 at 2:39 PM, effnakedteeth said:

Thats where the real regret comes, because when I installed it with the o-ring(s) (can't remember as its been awhile, but I used whatever came with the pan) I thought the tube went in way too easy compared to how difficult it was to remove from the OEM pan.

Mis-installing those o-rings is likely what cost me my short block, be careful. The oil pan/crankcase is pressurized by blowby that will push oil out of the dipstick tube, even more so if your engine is already tired. I know those o-rings are difficult to install... even with the engine on the stand. It took me multiple tries (and trips to the dealer) to install them without tearing.

@killerbmotorsport (link) :

Quote

A little lube on the o-rings and DON'T force them. Gentle wiggle until it goes. If you force it the second o-ring can tear or move out of its groove. Another trick we just recently stumbled on it to wrap electrical tape one the outer edge of the second o-ring groove. It only takes one wrap, and does a great job at preventing the second o-ring from moving out of it's groove. It's strange, but Subaru made the second o-ring groove walls have less taper so the o-rings move around a lot more

 

[silverton]

14 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Today, I dropped the car at East Valley Auto Repair in Kent, WA for"verification of engine installation by an ASE certified mechanic."

Looking forward to getting the car back this evening so I may put more miles on it.

Ah yes, Mark the Subaru Guru Good guy...good guy.... you should have seen the look on his face though when I told him I had 251 heads on a 257 block with a turbo in my GC-RS, "I didn't know that could work" he says.

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, Enlight said:

I have an Aeromotive A1000 now. I'm basically following the parts list I got received for my estimate from Prime Motoring except doing the work myself.

You'd be amazed at what you can make with some aluminium flat bar stock, a vice/hammer, and either some nutserts or a tap set. I know you know this, but make something out of cardboard that will fit where you need it, mark the bolt holes with Sharpie, then start trimming and cutting up some bar stock. Aluminium only because it bends super easily with any hammer you have lying around. By all means go with 304 SS barstock if you have a big hammer, or want the workout. 

I've used both. Ali is sufficient for automotive needs like an FPR (small and light). SS looks awesome tho.

[Enlight]

I did not know (or at least think of) that and thank you

[effnakedteeth]

2 hours ago, Enlight said:

Mis-installing those o-rings is likely what cost me my short block, be careful. The oil pan/crankcase is pressurized by blowby that will push oil out of the dipstick tube, even more so if your engine is already tired. I know those o-rings are difficult to install... even with the engine on the stand. It took me multiple tries (and trips to the dealer) to install them without tearing.

@killerbmotorsport (link) :

 

That's bugs me now as mine offered no struggle. Lubed up and slipped in. I'm calling shops now to see about them doing a pan removal and reseal. I don't want to screw around with this on my back under the car.

[Enlight]

Take a breath. This is likely something you can take care of yourself in a weekend. If you're only doing local driving you are probably fine, just check your dipstick after each trip until then and top off as needed. I use @Max Capacity's method: after stopping the car, pull out the dipstick, wipe it down, and lay it across somewhere safe in your engine bay. When you get back to your car, inserting the dipstick will give you a clean reading - just don't forget the dipstick and drive off without re-inserting it. It's a good thing you were vigilant... better than me.

@killerbmotorsport mentioned it's almost impossible to insert the dipstick tube correctly without removing it. I wish I knew that the first time I installed an oil pan. Pick up some extra o-rings in the likelihood that you tear some in your attempts.

[effnakedteeth]

3 hours ago, Enlight said:

Take a breath. This is likely something you can take care of yourself in a weekend. If you're only doing local driving you are probably fine, just check your dipstick after each trip until then and top off as needed. I use @Max Capacity's method: after stopping the car, pull out the dipstick, wipe it down, and lay it across somewhere safe in your engine bay. When you get back to your car, inserting the dipstick will give you a clean reading - just don't forget the dipstick and drive off without re-inserting it. It's a good thing you were vigilant... better than me.

@killerbmotorsport mentioned it's almost impossible to insert the dipstick tube correctly without removing it. I wish I knew that the first time I installed an oil pan. Pick up some extra o-rings in the likelihood that you tear some in your attempts.

I think I found a solution to try first...

https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/flexible-dipstick-kit-for-subaru-engines/

[NORULZleggy]

Need the Fams help, I have a Hose from my FPR that has backed out a little and just enough my car shit out half a tank of gas on while driving. I was able to limp the car home and park it outside away from my house just incase. Is there anything special that I need to do to fix this? I figure just let the car sit for a few days, then remove the hose clamp and put new one on. The car has no gas cause it's on my hood and engine bay lol. I am so happy my nice hood cover soaked up the gas and most leaked out on the ground.

I want to fix this myself and get the car back on the road. Any advice please chime in. I can see where it is leaking from easy.

[rhino6303]

8 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:

Need the Fams help, I have a Hose from my FPR that has backed out a little and just enough my car shit out half a tank of gas on while driving. I was able to limp the car home and park it outside away from my house just incase. Is there anything special that I need to do to fix this? I figure just let the car sit for a few days, then remove the hose clamp and put new one on. The car has no gas cause it's on my hood and engine bay lol. I am so happy my nice hood cover soaked up the gas and most leaked out on the ground.

I want to fix this myself and get the car back on the road. Any advice please chime in. I can see where it is leaking from easy.

2 things:

1. Be sure the hose is SAE J30R9 or OEM and not lower (R7, etc).

2. Use a new oem fuel hose clamp. I've had many reused ones lose clamping ablility and most aftermarket ones suck.

Edited June 22, 2023 by rhino6303

[NORULZleggy]

19 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

2 things:

1. Be sure the hose is SAE J30R9 or OEM and not lower (R7, etc).

2. Use a new oem fuel hose clamp. I've had many reused ones lose clamping ablility and most aftermarket ones suck.

Got it, I have new clamps, and will be getting that hose. car is in the garage and I see the hose and will get it replaced and update. Thanks

[tysparks81]

On 6/19/2023 at 11:03 PM, Enlight said:

Removed my VF52 to get ready for the @JmP6889928 treatment. Removing the silicone hoses was very difficult as the worm drive clamps dig into the soft hose. The clamp held on so tight that the worm drives backed themselves out before the clamps loosened. I've ordered some non-stripping/embossed clamps to see whether they will help. Received my new fuel line kit from Torque Solutions as the IAG ones were too stiff and didn't fit the LGT very well due to the location of our throttle body.

Where do people mount their FPR's if they have a brake master cylinder brace? @Infosecdad had a very nice DIY bracket at ECM '23.

I have mine mounted to the block at the front of the motor right beside the battery.  Using a piece of aluminum like KZJonny mentioned using.  I think the placement is going to depend on the route of your fuel lines.

[Enlight]

Spent the better part of the day cutting and installing fuel lines for the second time, opting for the Torque Solutions kit over IAG's. Between the IAG lines being so stiff and the throttle body location on the LGT being different from the STI, it was a real messy fit. I'm still on the lookout for an off-the-shelf adapter for an Aeromotive FPR.

Also fixed the knock sensor connector on the harness Sumimoto connector DL090-2S-4 from Corsa Technic.

Fuji sat at his favorite perch to hunt mice. He already got one earlier that day.

Bonus: Threw in the replacement A/C condenser as a push intall. I love how long the days are in the summer.

[NORULZleggy]

On 6/23/2023 at 8:48 AM, NORULZleggy said:

Got it, I have new clamps, and will be getting that hose. car is in the garage and I see the hose and will get it replaced and update. Thanks

So I let the car sit overnight, Hit the Gym and then came back home to fix the car. I started out with the small 7-inch hose at the top of the Green Radium FPR and was leaking from both sides bad. I went with stock gator clamps. Started the car back up and there was no leak from that area at all. 

Then I really wanted to make sure, so i started it up again and saw a very small leak where you see the double gator clamp. I now have no leaks at all, and the car now starts on the first key turn. I think that might have been my problem for a while. It would never start on the first turn, but now it fires right up strong!

This problem seems to be those smooth clamps that you can see on the fuse box. I had to remove all of them and add stock now gator clamps, also I added a new fuel line below. It did not look like a fuel line. 

 

All is good so far; I am going to run it down the road and get some 93 and see it there is a leak. I think I am good; I gave it some revs and saw nothing. It seems to run much better. Also, my car always smelled bad like gas, and this seems to have fixed the problem. 

 

Note:

I have

ID 1000s

ID Rails

STi Radium Engineering KIT with their FPR and gauge

All fuel lines and pump  

[rhino6303]

I dropped my block halves and heads at the machine shop for cleaning today. I also have my pistons and rods ready to go. I ended up getting Manley drop-ins and Manley rods. Now that it's summer I look forward to getting the car back on the road. Oh, and it looks like we'll get to move in to our house this weekend. Stoked to have a garage again.

[m sprank]

First.  I am unfamiliar with the TS (a Chinese knock off brand) or the IAG line kit. In my experience all the kits suck. I made all my own lines.  Want perfect fit, make it yourself. 

Second. Re-route those lines. You want to be above the block and manifold, not under. You want to be able to access the lines and you want them AWAY FROM THE HEAT.  Vapor lock is real.  AN fittings need periodic  checking.  In a perfect world you want all the lines exactly the same length.  I have pix if you need. 

Third, that repair is SCARY.  You should never need two clamps.  That is telling you something is wrong with the fitment. Its the barb to AN adapter or the hose used. Honestly that should all be AN with no barbed fittings. You have a high failure risk with the two clamp rig job.

 

Be safe gents.

 

Edited June 27, 2023 by m sprank

[NORULZleggy]

20 minutes ago, m sprank said:

First.  I am unfamiliar with the TS (a Chinese knock off brand) or the IAG line kit. In my experience all the kits suck. I made all my own lines.  Want perfect fit, make it yourself. 

Second. Re-route those lines. You want to be above the block and manifold, not under. You want to be able to access the lines and you want them AWAY FROM THE HEAT.  Vapor lock is real.  AN fittings need periodic  checking.  In a perfect world you want all the lines exactly the same length.  I have pix if you need. 

Third, that repair is SCARY.  You should never need two clamps.  That is telling you something is wrong with the fitment. Its the barb to AN adapter or the hose used. Honestly that should all be AN with no barbed fittings. You have a high failure risk with the two clamp rig job.

 

Be safe gents.

 

I am guessing your talking about me on the two clamps. I can remove the 2nd clamp I just put it on for peace of mind. I do agree with you on the AN with no barbed fittings. I did not do the install of the lines but I will make sure to get them taken car of. From what I can tell the hose that was one there was fine it was just that smooth clamp that that was the problem. 

The car does start right up with out delay and runs better. Any advice an what i should get replaced or done I will get it going. Please chime in more. I was happy I was not putting it on a trailer again. lol Thanks

[m sprank]

I know this is an STi and has a metal manifold.  It was a quick find.  But you can replicate the same design with a plastic manifold (and offset TB).  All lines are equal length.  FPR is mounted to the firewall near the pitch stop.  All lines from the OE metal fuel pipes are AN. 

@NORULZleggy Many times the problem is the conversion from AN to standard hose.  The fit is not perfect.  If you want to keep the standard hose, you might want to buy a foot or so of a couple different brands and sizes.  I had the best luck with Continental fuel hose.  Remember its not the liquid leak that kills you.   Its the vapor.  Liquid gasoline is actually rather hard to ignite with just the heat of an engine.  Vapor  goes BOOM.  You cant see the vapor. 

Edited June 27, 2023 by m sprank

[m sprank]

Found more with metal manifolds.  Same basic line routing. 

 

Edited June 27, 2023 by m sprank

[NORULZleggy]

Thanks for the pics. This will be something i will have to tackle at some point, or just buy a R35 GTR and really be happy lol

[blide]

The photos are great.  If anyone has photos for the fuel line routing with our setup, especially with the top mount intercooler in place, I'd like to see it.  This is on my to do list at some point and having a reference would make the process much easier.  Don't have to reinvent the wheel so to speak.

[NORULZleggy]

4 hours ago, m sprank said:

I know this is an STi and has a metal manifold.  It was a quick find.  But you can replicate the same design with a plastic manifold (and offset TB).  All lines are equal length.  FPR is mounted to the firewall near the pitch stop.  All lines from the OE metal fuel pipes are AN. 

@NORULZleggy Many times the problem is the conversion from AN to standard hose.  The fit is not perfect.  If you want to keep the standard hose, you might want to buy a foot or so of a couple different brands and sizes.  I had the best luck with Continental fuel hose.  Remember its not the liquid leak that kills you.   Its the vapor.  Liquid gasoline is actually rather hard to ignite with just the heat of an engine.  Vapor  goes BOOM.  You cant see the vapor. 

 

 

 

@m sprank Thanks for this. Great to learn more about the fuel lines. I think out of all the places I went, they all had gates fuel lines. even Napa where I go had them.