xt2005bonbon Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Yep, the front set of TiC tranny crossmember bushings had disintegrated. [ATTACH]293277[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]293278[/ATTACH] The rear pair seem to be fine, the fronts were gone. Installed the Whiteline set, will test drive it tomorrow hopefully. I see oil/grease residue in the area. Do you think it may have contributed to their disintegration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I see oil/grease residue in the area. Do you think it may have contributed to their disintegration? I don't think so, everything I have read on polyurethane says that it should last the life of the car and is more resistant that rubber to chemicals. I looked closely at the rear seat and they are starting to break down, I can see the fractures on the inside of the holes. I think the front pair under the tranny are subject to a lot more force than the rear set, so they went first. I may send pictures to TiC and see if they will tell me if this is a known thing or not. It may be that there was a bad set for a time period; might be they will all do it, it's all speculation. I just know I'm not going back to their bushings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Any chance the crossmember loosened up and allowed too much movement? "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Any chance the crossmember loosened up and allowed too much movement? Maybe? I have a tendency to over torque instead of under torque. My guess is no, because the nuts didn’t appear to be backed off; but I can’t confirm one way or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 No kidding! I just ordered an STi tranny mount the other day, after bouncing back and forth between the Group N and STi mounts. Thanks Max for all of your previous posts. At the same time I ordered Whiteline's KDT901 kit, as I think I'm beginning a similar endeavor to eliminating driveline slop. You're welcome. Let us know if you think the STI mount made a difference. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I'll probably get this kit as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORULZleggy Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Got my JDM DD kit and full system installed. I got my beats back, and I can play my music video dvds while I drive. listening to music is so 1998, having the video play with the music on my screen is nice. Getting my 5 spoke Enkie's on soon for winter, tires will be here today. Just waiting on my customer JDM headlights from Florida to be done. Goin on 4 months. I will get some picks up soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Speaking of oil residue, I'm leaving a tiny spot on the ground every time I park. Feel like at 195k miles I might as well just keep topping it off instead of getting too worked up over fixing everything. Let the thing die and do it all over EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I noticed minor seepage around my Fumoto quick drain valve. Cleaned the area and confirmed a small leak from the drain valve. Very small, but it's present. Next oil change I'll pay attention to the seal at the base of the valve since that's where it's coming from. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 My oil pan is covered in surface rust, but a light coating of oil has taken over the entire thing. I'm assuming they're counteracting each other now though I might actually replace the oil pan, bc then I can get to the groupN motor mounts with less fear of losing fingers. But then why not do the valve covers too. Enter the rabbit hole EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I noticed minor seepage around my Fumoto quick drain valve. Cleaned the area and confirmed a small leak from the drain valve. Very small, but it's present. Next oil change I'll pay attention to the seal at the base of the valve since that's where it's coming from. I have/had these on 4 vehicles and no leaks; the gasket material seems high quality. Not sure how long you've had it on, but did you happen to see if it had loosened up a tad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Speaking of oil residue, I'm leaving a tiny spot on the ground every time I park. Feel like at 195k miles I might as well just keep topping it off instead of getting too worked up over fixing everything. Let the thing die and do it all over My oil pan is covered in surface rust, but a light coating of oil has taken over the entire thing. I'm assuming they're counteracting each other now though I might actually replace the oil pan, bc then I can get to the groupN motor mounts with less fear of losing fingers. But then why not do the valve covers too. Enter the rabbit hole Quick turnaround and well rationalized! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 I have/had these on 4 vehicles and no leaks; the gasket material seems high quality. Not sure how long you've had it on, but did you happen to see if it had loosened up a tad? I've had it on about 5 months now. I'm not too worried about the product bc of all the positive testimonies on here and other places. When I was under there last I didn't back it off any or tighten it to check if it had become loose. But a couple tempts with my hand and it seemed secure. For now, I'm just keeping my eye on it. 600mi till next oil change. I'll look at it in greater depth then. Did you use the washer that it came with or a OEM Subaru copper crush washer? I can't remember what the valve came with. It totally could've come with a crush washer, I just don't remember. I used whatever was in the bag with the valve. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 I use the gasket that comes with the valve. Seems like a solid yet compressible composite that would be better than the typical metal washer to mitigate leaks. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 yaknow the compressible metal gasket with the correct torque won't leak, right? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Yes. Would you use that or what came with the valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Sounds like a real conundrum... Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Carborundum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 (edited) Dum dum learned a lesson. Went to do the 15k mile oil change, and found the DEI Titanium header wrap of the same vintage disintegrating. Applied to an HKS stainless header, 3 coats of Rustoleum header paint, and then sprayed with the DEI sealant after application of the wrap. Between the disintegrating wrap and rust spots, looks like all the advice against using is likely true. On the bright side, if the header has to come down to get cleaned up, I might as well go a bit further right? BCP x500 and EWG pipe that have been sitting in a bin for 6 months are on deck for next time I have a full day to work on the car. The current 5MT is already missing half of reverse, let's see if this setup deletes any of the forward gears. Yeehaw. Edited September 11, 2021 by awfulwaffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 yaknow the compressible metal gasket with the correct torque won't leak, right? This is likely what I'll do next time I'm under there since I have a bunch of extras from the last run to the dealer. It was torqued accordingly. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Yes. Would you use that or what came with the valve? 2 ppl have leaks using shipped gasket. 1000's of oil changes with oem gasket and no leaks. Kind of a no-brainer to me Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Dum dum learned a lesson. Went to do the 15k mile oil change, and found the DEI Titanium header wrap of the same vintage disintegrating. Applied to an HKS stainless header, 3 coats of Rustoleum header paint, and then sprayed with the DEI sealant after application of the wrap. Between the disintegrating wrap and rust spots, looks like all the advice against using is likely true. On the bright side, if the header has to come down to get cleaned up, I might as well go a bit further right? BCP x500 and EWG pipe that have been sitting in a bin for 6 months are on deck for next time I have a full day to work on the car. The current 5MT is already missing half of reverse, let's see if this setup deletes any of the forward gears. Yeehaw. 5th gear is pretty easy to shear off. A couple hard pulls will shatter it. Its still covid, so you could probably get away with it on the highway Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finsta Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Stupid question for people here: Has anybody had any luck or ideas for running a fuseblock and/or placement? I'm looking for a good way to reliably provide power to some goodies (power folding mirrors, HID levelers and LEDs DRLs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 If I understand your question correctly, Ralph makes solid harness for all the above, all with built in fuses for safety. I have all three and they are of nice quality. Haven't wired any up yet. Mirror harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hi-jdm-folding-mirror-harness-284093.html?t=284093 Headlight harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-usdm-headlight-harness-bl-bp-283236.html?t=283236 Headlight Level Motor Harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hi-jdm-switch-bank-w-pnp-headlight-level-motor-harness-283573.html?t=283573 MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finsta Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 If I understand your question correctly, Ralph makes solid harness for all the above, all with built in fuses for safety. I have all three and they are of nice quality. Haven't wired any up yet. Mirror harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hi-jdm-folding-mirror-harness-284093.html?t=284093 Headlight harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-usdm-headlight-harness-bl-bp-283236.html?t=283236 Headlight Level Motor Harness: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hi-jdm-switch-bank-w-pnp-headlight-level-motor-harness-283573.html?t=283573 Yeah, Ralph makes good stuff. I have his mirror harness. That said, because I did my own wiring for the JDM HIDs, I have to run some taps for the motors for HIDs, mirrors and my DRLs. Ergo, I'm looking at something like this: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover Or https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/lv.php?sl=70213 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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