SubOperator Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Say no more! https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mi-wagon-hatch-garnish-jdm-282515.html?t=282515 Thanks! I am in no hurry, the car mostly sits in the garage since the work from home started. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I was thinking of doing one of the home kits but was told by friends with nicer garages to have it done professionally. So another contractor to look at after quarantine. As for the lift, leaning towards the direct lift propack 8000lb. And yes Famaya, it is a 1994 JDM ST205 Celica GT4. AWD, 2.0ltr turbo, with a five speed rated at 250hp from the factory. It’s a blast to drive and RallyX. When you do have it done, do you mind sharing what materials/methods the contractor used? I have heard too that it's best to go with someone doing this professionally. At the same time couple guys at work were happy with the results they had with some Lowe's kits. I am on hold with any car projects for now, priorities. But planning for the future. Via an accident (flipped a full paint tray), I discovered Behr's primer works pretty good. It's useless when its get wet. However its held up surprisingly well for $50/1500sf. I looked into epoxy professionally applied, which involves a thorough cleaning, etching and application. Plus it came with a warranty. Quote was $7000/1500sf. griots/home depot/rustoleum/etc diy solutions require thorough cleaning and etching before painting. This seemed to be the key for good adhesion. Any oil or gas left on the floor will ruin the finish. A white floor really makes the space brighter as well as making almost all parts instantly visible when the land on the floor. I was looking into doing a polyurea coating instead of epoxy. A little more expensive, but I think it's more DIY friendly and a better material overall. Have any of you ever heard of or looked into that? It doesn't seem like there's any downside besides cost, but I haven't really researched it much beyond that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Anyone know where to find the best deal on a 2015+ sti steering rack? Mine has sprung a leak. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I was looking into doing a polyurea coating instead of epoxy. A little more expensive, but I think it's more DIY friendly and a better material overall. Have any of you ever heard of or looked into that? It doesn't seem like there's any downside besides cost, but I haven't really researched it much beyond that. I had a product called “Flexmar” installed at my last house. It is a polyaspartic coating. It was very durable, had anti-slip, and looked good. That is my only experience with any coating. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I bought mine a couple weeks ago from this seller: https://www.ebay.com/i/293188090535?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D5009fb2ee6674b6a85babac0887071bc%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D13%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D293179942531%26itm%3D293188090535%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefault $400. 2018 (probably low miles). A bent tie rod or two. This is the cheapest I could find. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Thanks but I’m buying new. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Finally got the next datalog off to dave @cryotune, my car has been locked in at my work for weeks! Can't wait for the next step. It's already been feeling great so far now in the right section... 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 saw a gorgeous blue wagon w/ jdm tails & big exhaust flying on i5 north bound in Seattle. California plates. Brembos. Anyone on here? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Anyone know where to find the best deal on a 2015+ sti steering rack? Mine has sprung a leak. I got mine from a local junkyard for about $270 (located via car-part), but it was missing the hydraulic lines and the RH inner tie rod, boot, etc. I'm gonna buy a leaky 2012 rack off a friend to salvage the parts I'm missing for about $100, so under $400 all-in for me. There was a guy on NASIOC selling a stockpile of them, but not sure if he's still got any left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Maybe check Craigslist for Subaru part outs. There's usually a few Subaru specific shops between Atlanta and Charlotte that collect and part out cars, STis are usually the headline attention grabbing listings. Obviously different part of the country so ymmv, but it's something I've noticed among larger cities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Today I replaced my battery and drove it after installing a cylinder 4 coolant mod and replacing all of my aos lines. My exide edge agm battery was less than 3 years old. Voltage was down to 7 volts and my battery tender kept giving faults so I replaced it with a Napa Legend agm battery. They are made by East Penn and the same as the Deka intimidator. Last year I had a weird incident that overheated the battery and I believe caused the current deadness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjtct Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 Pulled my intake to do parallel fuel lines and rails but opted out due to routing challenges. Did find most intake gaskets leaking and fixed the regulator screws to socket heads. Subaru needs to stop putting clamps and screws that cant be tightened without removing the intake -bullshit design. Intake removal wasnt too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Very nice! Welcome to the forum. Post up an introduction and tell us more about your Spec B. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Friday evening coming home from work I heard a new rattle/clunk from underneath the car when going over small bumps at low speed. Sounds like mid to rear of the car, definitely not front end. Gave a quick look underneath, and the driver's side plastic undertray was hanging down a bit because it was missing most of the pop-its on the outboard edge. I pulled the rest of the pop-its and the two central mounting bolts to drop it down enough to snake a vacuum hose in there to extract >200K miles worth of accumulated gravel, then buttoned it back up with a pop-it in every spot. Thankfully I had a crap-ton of Honda/Acura pop-its on hand that are the same size. The Hondacura ones just pull out with trim clip pliers, versus the Subaru ones that are Philips head (which I've never really cared for). Still have the low speed rattle/clunk though. Further pondering has me thinking rear sway bar end links and/or bushings, which I think may still be the original >15-y.o. parts. Plus the low speed & mild bump conditions when it occurs are basically the same conditions as what would cause my front end links to rattle when they were toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Yesterday, but: [ame= ] [/ame] Wheel bearing? There isn't any play, but this also does not sound like the breaks grinding ether. Ordered the parts to replace it. Also the ABS computer is now all pissed off because one of the front wheels decided to stop spinning during the testing. Need to figure out how to reset that.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Yesterday, but: Wheel bearing? There isn't any play, but this also does not sound like the breaks grinding ether. Ordered the parts to replace it. Also the ABS computer is now all pissed off because one of the front wheels decided to stop spinning during the testing. Need to figure out how to reset that.... Few thoughts: 1. Have you pulled the wheel to see if something is caught behind the center cap? 2. Have you checked play in the axle? 3. Something between the dust shield and the rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 I have a video just like that. Have two new rear bearings and axle nuts waiting for some free time. I reset my ecu to get rid of the code it threw. Even though i was sure i caused it driving the car in the air, codes still scare me... * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Few thoughts: 1. Have you pulled the wheel to see if something is caught behind the center cap? 2. Have you checked play in the axle? 3. Something between the dust shield and the rotor? Checked 1 and 3, both were fine. Didn't directly check 2 but there isnt any rotational play between the rear wheels and when I put the stereoscope on the rear diff and didn't hear anything there other than a slight hum. Didn't check for in-out play in any way though, and with the more extreme angle at full droop any minor issues in the outer joint would lead to noise like observed. The car is really loud inside now on the highway, almost like a window is open, which lead to this testing. Symptoms SEEM to match, except there is ZERO play in any of the hubs. Found some NTN (OEM brand) replacment bearing on eBay for $55 each so I wont be out much if this dosen't fix it. I'm hoping the front driver side isn't also bad as I have no interest in separating rusty ball joints. I wonder if there is a way to get the hub off without doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 When I replaced my front wheel bearings, I didn't separate the ball joints, it's not required if I remember correctly. It took me about 45 min per side for the fronts. Don't forget to pick up a new axle nut if you haven't yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Just found a YouTube video where they did it by disconnection the front strut. I've been wanting to change the helper springs on my PSS's anyway which would be easy to do at the same time, so maybe I just bite the bullet and do the front one as well. Guess the only question now is do I touch the front one that WASN'T making any noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Might be kind of late now but, if you drive the car on a flyover ramp or highspeed exit clover leaf type with the radio turned off you'll hear the bad bearing as the loading changes. Also if you ride in the back seat while someone drives the car...you'll be surprised what you hear from back there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Getting to that #4 coilpack is a real bastard, especially with the air pump duct routing. So many things are just a little easier with the 2005MY.. Glad I got it out of there though, rusted and separation all over the metal case. Hopefully the source of my cold misfire. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 These were mine when I replaced them. The misfires were so bad it felt like I was skipping teeth on bicycle gears, was afraid I wouldn't make it to my destination. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 I don't get "bling" too often for my wagon, but I did here... The rare (for me) brand new item. A Beatrush rear strut brace, one of the few that can actually fit below the carpet. So pretty, but will be hidden Only took >2 months to get here from Japan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 These were mine when I replaced them. The misfires were so bad it felt like I was skipping teeth on bicycle gears, was afraid I wouldn't make it to my destination. Damn those look pretty rough. I didn't have issues like you thankfully, a barely noticeable misfire at first start, but 2/4 CPs of mine were almost as cruddy looking. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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