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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Struts are back in (was using this as an opertunity to change springs). Slide hammer obtained. I've heat cycled each hub probably 5 times with a propane torch, and given then at least a dozen goes with PB blaster. These things are stuck TIGHT. :spin:

 

I'm about to the point of ordering new knuckles, but I'm worried about getting the ball joints out from the old ones. They are a super pro roll center correction kit, so not cheap to replace if I kill one.

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kred has a 6mt for sale in the classified ads section.

 

 

 

I also have a full 08 Spec B 6MT compete swap available as well for anyone that’s out there looking. And a complete ej255 if anyone needs for one of those ether. Both are located around Parkton MD for anyone local or in the vicinity that’s willing to travel to pick them up.

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/md-pa-spec-b-trans-6mt-axles-driveshaft-rear-differential-282566.html?p=5962050

Edited by Lgt005
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Slide hammer works really well. If you don't have one, try to use a socket with extension on the rear hub bolts threaded in partially. Or, if you have an air chisel, it'll make short work of it.

 

I got a tool at home depot that looks like a beefed up chisel but not really sharp. It was in the concrete section. It has large orange plastic cap/holder that protects your hand when you hammer on it.

 

I put the work edge of the tool on the edge of hub where it connects to knuckle, and go to town changing angles and trying to crack it open. Goal is to start separating hub from the knuckle. spray liberally with Kroil (I don't use PB Blaster because of smell it leaves for days).

 

Once you have a crack just work on it pulling it out evenly so it does not jam itself in the knuckle. Keep the shokck mounted.

 

Sure is not my favorite activity with the car but I've done it enough times to know I can finish it.

 

 

 

Change your dust shield while you have the hub out.

Edited by SubOperator

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Who are people going to for upgrades - Rallispec?

 

 

I did take mine there too. Was a fun trip both times (drop/pickup) except for coming back through CT. 3 hours to get there, 8 hours to come back.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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PB Blaster is your friend. spray it good, go have lunch. Try to get the hub out, if not, spray it with more PB, then go get a snack, then try it again. that worked for me years ago on the left rear.

 

The slide hammer did seem to work as well as the PB Blaster. Its just rust holding it in.

 

Having the knuckle removed from the strut, may not be helping either.

 

There are DYI's for this in that Forum, all the ideas are there.

 

tjLwqax.jpg

 

Apparently PB blaster brand penitrate is the key. Ran through an entire can of Liquid Wrench trying to get these things out, and as soon as I switched they came out.

 

So the last two days went like this:

Whaling on them with a hammer

chizelign the sides of them with a screwedriver

Putting a bolt back into the housing part ways then waling on it with a hammer

heating up the knuckles with a propane torge untill paint starts graying (x5)

Using an entiry can of Liquid Wrench on them

Breaking a wood chizzel hammering it between the bearing housing and backing plate

Whaling on them with a slide hammer for half an hour

using a metal chizzel around the bearing housing/backing plate interface

Applying REAL PB Blaster

And then a little more slide hammering and chizzeling.

 

:spin::spin::spin:

 

With all of that abuse I'm worried about the health of the ball joints. I found this Astro Pneumatic Subaru Ball Joint Puller for $27 which appears to work like the $75 Company 23 tool. Ordered one just incase.

 

Hopefully the one last rear one wont be that bad.

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Changed oil on LGT and Tribeca. 232K on LGT, 219K on Tribeca. Still have few AA160 filters for LGT but it's time to start looking for some Mazda filters. Added a can of Ceratec to each car.

 

 

Son picked some parts from unclemat, thanks man! This community is great.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Had a concern about turbo oil feed line rubbing on the edge of Grimm Speed turbo shield. after fiddling with the line for a long time came up with this genius solution. Thinking about patenting it. This was few months ago and it works just fine.

 

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=284375&stc=1&d=1588557895

IMG_20200503_170935_small.thumb.jpg.b8cd9ea69bc954d3d6ba2e2cd1b7ec85.jpg

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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tjLwqax.jpg

 

Apparently PB blaster brand penitrate is the key. Ran through an entire can of Liquid Wrench trying to get these things out, and as soon as I switched they came out.

 

So the last two days went like this:

Whaling on them with a hammer

chizelign the sides of them with a screwedriver

Putting a bolt back into the housing part ways then waling on it with a hammer

heating up the knuckles with a propane torge untill paint starts graying (x5)

Using an entiry can of Liquid Wrench on them

Breaking a wood chizzel hammering it between the bearing housing and backing plate

Whaling on them with a slide hammer for half an hour

using a metal chizzel around the bearing housing/backing plate interface

Applying REAL PB Blaster

And then a little more slide hammering and chizzeling.

 

:spin::spin::spin:

 

With all of that abuse I'm worried about the health of the ball joints. I found this Astro Pneumatic Subaru Ball Joint Puller for $27 which appears to work like the $75 Company 23 tool. Ordered one just incase.

 

Hopefully the one last rear one wont be that bad.

I have the astro pneumatic tool for ball joints. It's wonderful. I used to use a homemade tool with a pipe and threaded rod that is the same idea as the astro/company23 but the astro tool blows it out of the water. The only thing you could improve is the threads but that's across the board for the tools made in china. The threads always suck.
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Test drove what will be my new beater 2007 Honda Accord SE 5spd manual that I will be picking up tomorrow. I can offically announce, 6 speed swap and built shortblock has been activated and time to proceed!!

 

Did back to back datalogs this evening with my Cobb AP3

 

PS that should be May2020 hahaha 2 hours past my bedtime. I definitely missed by alot.

 

Thats what I get for cooking free meals all day everyday for our county hospital employees. Nearly quadrupled our volume now that its FREE

march2020lgt.csv

march2020lgt2.csv

Edited by tocinoman25

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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Got the Fluidampr installed after work Friday. The Perrin pulley was off within 10 minutes using the bumpstart method. Took a little longer to do the rest but the custom tool worked perfectly. Rested it on the driver's frame rail and was able to torque it down properly. Smoothness across the rev range is a welcome addition as well as reduced random knock.

 

Spent most of the day Saturday swapping the blacked out headlights for clear & chrome ones. Results were great and I'll eventually do a proper headlight restoration and apply the clear lamin-x.

IMG_5104.thumb.jpg.5d746a3503b878acb30910a7edb7f300.jpg

IMG_5117.thumb.jpg.0bf53c1313473a5fcc3340445226dfcb.jpg

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Had a concern about turbo oil feed line rubbing on the edge of Grimm Speed turbo shield. after fiddling with the line for a long time came up with this genius solution. Thinking about patenting it. This was few months ago and it works just fine.

 

 

You can check out the catalog of sleeves at wirecare.com. I'm sure you can find something that will suit your needs. Initial thought is one of these metal braided sleeves.

muFreight.co
A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan 🇯🇵 to NYC 🗽
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Bessie II's Thread

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Was surprised to find an oil leak under my car again. The source seems to be the dipstick receiver on the oil pan... the one I just installed the missing o-ring on to. I'm suspecting a possible bad PCV. These things are more likely to happen after a car sits for two years. Luckily I just ordered one for a valve cover job I thought I had to undertake.

 

It also took two full days to resuscitate my Odyssey battery after forgetting my keys in the ignition for a few weeks. Glad my NOCO G7200 was able to handle the job. The wires got quite warm for a bit.

 

P.S. Where's the PCV valve location? Vacation pics tell me intake manifold needs to be removed but no one else is reporting the same.

 

P.P.S.

Edited by Enlight

muFreight.co
A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan 🇯🇵 to NYC 🗽
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Bessie II's Thread

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Who are people going to for upgrades - Rallispec?

 

 

Just looked at your location now, in your case it's easiest option from NYC. Just call/email them to set drop of time.

 

 

 

They've done a good job for me. Sometimes I think I should've spent more money on SpecB gears but too late now and I have already gotten used to STI gearing on my wagon.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Got so much done this weekend, first we stripped massaiwarriors parts car of its headliner and trunk liner on Sat afternoon.

 

On Sunday I swapped the rear passenger side door for a clean one I picked up a few weeks ago.

Then cleaned and installed the new to me trunk liner.

After I finished that up I vacuumed the interior and installed a new trunk/gas release mechanism.

 

With that all done over the next couple of weeks I will be working on converting the upper trim/headliner to black.

 

Go to bed dammit, no wonder I never get a hold of you in the morning :p

08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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What I did today, I hit a squirrel just after getting on the highway leaving work. Yeah, not a big thing, right ?

 

I saw the squirrel freeze as the car I was following went over him. I had a car coming up on my left, so I couldn't move over.

 

As I hit it, I hear the impact and a popping sound. Also see something small and black fly past the passenger side window. I kept driving to Tractor Supply about 20 miles. While in the checkout line I look out and see something hanging down under the wagon.

 

Lucky, the oil filter door was still there, just missing all 5 clips that hold it closed.

 

I stuck the door back up in the opening, drove home, jacked it up and put new clips in.

 

Can't make this stuff up...LOL

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Noticed my tabs on my Cobb AP3 both broke off and I was barely able to remove the AP. I emailed Cobb Support and they were kind enough to warranty my OBD2 cable. Must be that Las Vegas desert heat that made those tabs brittle and the cold winters back in Chicago. Thats awfully nice of them! Made my day! Now to pick up my new beater car

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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Noticed my tabs on my Cobb AP3 both broke off and I was barely able to remove the AP. I emailed Cobb Support and they were kind enough to warranty my OBD2 cable. Must be that Las Vegas desert heat that made those tabs brittle and the cold winters back in Chicago. Thats awfully nice of them! Made my day! Now to pick up my new beater car

 

 

LOL. Many broken cables. You are not alone. But nice to hear they replaced it under warranty.

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Ordered suspension..........finally!

 

Also replacing a bent rear dogbone and the buggered steering knuckle I mentioned earlier in this thread. Ironically, the ball joint popped out 3 days after picking up the new knuckle so I took it as a sign to get the rest of the suspension parts ordered and stop driving the car for now.

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Lucky, the oil filter door was still there, just missing all 5 clips that hold it closed.

 

I stuck the door back up in the opening, drove home, jacked it up and put new clips in.

 

Can't make this stuff up...LOL

 

 

Rolling like a boss Max with all 5 clips at that door, huh? I have long ago stopped putting the one in the middle on the back side in, saves me precious 3 seconds taking it out and 2 seconds putting back in every oil change.

 

 

In reality lost one long time ago and just forget to bring one out before changing oil.

Edited by SubOperator

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Share on other sites

Yesterday I replaced my manifold-UP gasket with a double-thick grimmspeed gasket. It fixed the exhaust leak but I'm still only holding boost up to about 5psi. Around 5psi the turbo gets all herky-jerky and becomes the opposite of smooth until it tops out around 7.5psi. The tune maxes out somewhere in the teens so something isn't right. I think my next move is to shove a borescope down the DP to look at the cat.
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Rolling like a boss Max with all 5 clips at that door, huh? I have long ago stopped putting the one in the middle on the back side in, saves me precious 3 seconds taking it out and 2 seconds putting back in every oil change.

 

 

In reality lost one long time ago and just forget to bring one out before changing oil.

 

oil change door? I have been doing it wrong all these years. I zip tied the door on so it doesn't come loose. Then take off the whole undertray.

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