What did you do to your Outback today? V3

[rebourne]

OMG that domain name.... so much joy

 

It took me two paces to get it. Australia. Kangaroo. Subaroo.

[xt2005bonbon]

This video is fun to watch :

[rebourne]

That Foz is sick.

[Rester5350]

I put a new battery in yesterday and fearlessly drove it to work today. She still boosts...

[xt2005bonbon]

I put a new battery in yesterday and fearlessly drove it to work today. She still boosts...

 

 

You're still around?

[Rester5350]

I pop in from time to time lol. I have a renewed interest in the ol' girl, as the latest motor seems to be a winner. Currently has 2,600 miles on the motor and 118K on the chassis.

[xt2005bonbon]

2600 miles? That's it? You need to drive her more!

I put almost 30k on my new one (since May 2020).

[Nonamedude]

So I grabbed some used winter tires thinking they were a good deal and not realizing they are 235/55 on 17x8 wheels. Since I'm on legacy struts they were hitting the strut. With a 5mm spacer they are hitting the fender. The stock stuff 225/55 17x7 fit without problems.

 

Is anyone running a 225/55 on an 8" wheel? Or 235/50 or something on legacy struts. Tein springs if that matters. Just looking at putting my hands on something else now.

 

 

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[cryo]

Even though I dont post as much since we are super busy these days at the shop and etuning we still love the LGT.com community and have such pride in what this community was able to do for us. You guys are awesome and always happy when an etune customer mentions a post from here or says they heard about us from one of our writeups on this site..

 

Thanks you guys!

 

Dave

[rebourne]

So I grabbed some used winter tires thinking they were a good deal and not realizing they are 235/55 on 17x8 wheels. Since I'm on legacy struts they were hitting the strut. With a 5mm spacer they are hitting the fender. The stock stuff 225/55 17x7 fit without problems.

 

Is anyone running a 225/55 on an 8" wheel? Or 235/50 or something on legacy struts. Tein springs if that matters. Just looking at putting my hands on something else now.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I don't have any advice, but what is hitting the strut, the tire or the wheel? I assume it's the tire hitting the fender.

 

3mm spacers exist, and are about the max you'd want to go on stock lugs. Maybe that'll solve it?

 

I did 5mm spacers on the rear for awhile on stock lugs, but the next time the wheels came off I didn't bother to put them back on. It was just for more flush fitment, not a necessary spacer.

[Nonamedude]

The sidewall is the tire is hitting the lower spring mount. I tried a 5mm spacer and got 7.5 turns (tire rack says 8 minimum) but then it was hitting the fender on very small bumps. Took off the flare and realized there's not much lip to roll. Thought about cutting the fender to make it a "real" fender flare. Idk how a pull would work out with reattaching the flare.

 

Decided that's all too much headache. Going to buy stock size on stock wheels which I know will fit (and is 0.7" taller than the tallest size that will fit per tire faq). I think in the spring I'll try a 235/45 to get the extra height clearance and should allow the 8" wheel to fit without a spacer.

 

Oddly my passenger side clears the bigger wheel and tire combo without a spacer. Doesn't really make sense in any way I can figure.

 

 

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[xt2005bonbon]

Let's see, what did I do to my outback? I destroyed its clutch

It started slipping a month ago. And this weekend it finally died after a road trip. Luckily it happened right when I exited the freeway close to home. We were able to park in a safe area and wait for a friend to tow us home. The clutch pedal still had its normal feel but releasing it would not do anything.

 

So I just spent almost 800 bucks for a new flywheel, new clutch, pressure plate (Exedy 15804 kit) and TSK 3 kit. This time I went with an Exedy OEM style single mass flywheel instead of lightweight (FF502).

 

It's going to be a fun Christmas break!

 

Also, still debating whether I'll change the clutch by dropping the trans or removing the engine. I've done it twice by dropping the trans. Somehow, it feels like less work but it's not fun working on your back, and then trying to mate the trans back to the engine on your own from under the car. I may be removing the engine this time. We shall see..

[xt2005bonbon]

Look at the carnage!

[rebourne]

Looks like you chose pull the engine. now that you have done it both ways, which is your preferred?

[Febreze Mee]

I put on new wipers today, and topped off my washer fluid reservoir.

 

I also installed a seat-mounted HalGuard fire extinguisher:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/h3rperformance-halguard-fire-extinguisher-installation-287365.html?p=6052767#post6052767

 

[xt2005bonbon]

Looks like you chose pull the engine. now that you have done it both ways, which is your preferred?

 

 

That's a tough one. Before I decided to remove the engine last week, I was starring at the engine for 40 minutes debating which route would be best!

I think both methods have their pros and cons. I think I prefer dropping the transmission instead of removing the engine. I know it is hard on your back but you are removing/disconnecting less things.

 

 

In the case of dropping the transmission, it would involve:

0. put car high on 4 jack stands

1. removing the front axles (easy)

2. disconnecting shifter (medium annoying)

3. draining trans oil

5. removing drive shaft (easy)

6. removing downpipe (also required with engine removal)

7. removing intercooler (also required with engine removal)8. removing 'dog bone' (also required with engine removal)

9. remove starter (also required with engine removal)

10. separate engine/trans

 

 

 

In the case of engine removal

0. remove air box

1. drain coolant

2. disconnect radiator hoses, fan cables and remove radiator/fans as one package

3. remove accessory belts

4. 'put aside' power steering pump

5. remove alternator

6. 'put aside' AC compressor

7. remove engine undercover

8. remove engine ground

9. disconnect main harness, o2 sensor

10. disconnect AOS (just for me -- that was a bit annoying)

11. remove intercooler (I have Grimmspeed - a bit annoying too)

12. disconnect 'dogbone'

13. disconnect fuel hoses

14. disconnect heater core coolant hoses

15. disconnect brake vacuum hose

16. remove starter

17. remove bolts holding engine to frame

18. removing downpipe and disconnect rear o2 sensor

19. disconnect engine/trans

 

 

I may have forgotten a step, not sure. But as you can see, 20 steps vs 11. And more chances to spill coolant in some places (I hate messes when I work). Now, some will say most of the engine step removals are 'easy'. Still, to me it adds more moving parts and potential issues if you mess up something. I don't know, that's just me though. I think next time, I'll drop the trans again. Seems simpler.

 

 

On a side note, this was my 'fastest' job from start to finish: car broke down on Saturday evening, bought parts Monday morning first thing, removed the engine Tuesday evening after work, got the parts on Wednesday and installed them that evening as well as putting the engine back in the bay too. Thursday evening and Friday morning, finished everything and car back on the road Friday afternoon. I have already put 150 miles on it. Clutch and flywheel feel really good.

 

 

I should have mentioned that the other clutch lasted 50000 miles. Not too bad with all the abuse it went through.

 

 

 

/end of book chapter

[Acerguy]

Well, I finally made an appointment to get the 2nd airbag (passenger) recall done on my '08 Outback. I would like to get the sticky dash replaced while they're in there but there seems to be some uncertainty if the dash actually has to be fully removed for this recall. Anyone out there that's had the TKC20-2 recall performed know if the dash has to come out as part of the service? Thanks!

[xt2005bonbon]

Well, I finally made an appointment to get the 2nd airbag (passenger) recall done on my '08 Outback. I would like to get the sticky dash replaced while they're in there but there seems to be some uncertainty if the dash actually has to be fully removed for this recall. Anyone out there that's had the TKC20-2 recall performed know if the dash has to come out as part of the service? Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Go to posts 36 and 37 of this thread. Seems possible to replace the airbag without removing the dash.

 

--> https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/soa-replacing-sticky-dash-there-other-things-look-while-dash-269021p3.html

[Acerguy]

Thanks! I didn't think to look in that thread. Yeah this seems to jibe with what I've heard elsewhere. Sure wish the original owner had done the sticky dash replacement when it was under the extended warranty bulletin. Local dealer quotes me about $600 for the dash but says that the labor could be anywhere from an hour or so to 8 or 9 depending on clips breaking and other unforeseen issues. I'm just not sure that the sticky dash bothers me THAT much. Edited January 3, 2022 by Acerguy

[xt2005bonbon]

I hear you. I hate this issue. I still have to address the recall and on top of that, my dashes are now showing cracks too, even though the cars have been garaged for the past 7 years!

[Acerguy]

I got a link to the actual procedure and it seems to indicate that the current instructions are to remove "the instrument panel assembly in addition to the related interior trim components" (see page 21). Doesn't sound like the top of the dash is actually removed.

 

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V003-7963.pdf?fbclid=IwAR16Gi7pz9jmDnGbPd4MlkkBHh2XtjVKQv7keRfaXq30aS0zaaU5AwcclUY

[xt2005bonbon]

Unfortunately, the 'instrument panel' refers to the dash. From what I gather, some dealership will replace the airbag by removing the dash, and some won't. I believe a higher percentage of dealerships will do the former. So, you want to ask your dealership which procedure they'll follow.

[Acerguy]

Good tip. I'll dig a little further. Thanks again.

 

EDIT: Found out the local dealer does NOT pull the top of the dash for this service. Boo.

Edited January 7, 2022 by Acerguy
update

[rebourne]

That's a tough one. Before I decided to remove the engine last week, I was starring at the engine for 40 minutes debating which route would be best!

I think both methods have their pros and cons. I think I prefer dropping the transmission instead of removing the engine. I know it is hard on your back but you are removing/disconnecting less things.

 

...snip....

 

/end of book chapter

 

Epic post! I would think one of the advantages to pulling the engine, is less brute strength needed. Being able to wrestle with the trans in a position where you have more leverage, vs bench pressing it up from your back. or try to balance it on a jack. not that i have done it myself on the subie, but thinking of other cars i've changed it on.

[rebourne]

I put on new wipers today, and topped off my washer fluid reservoir.

 

 

We were on our way back from Bigbear in the rain, and the wipers on my 2018 car started disintegrating right in front of my eyes. I was waiting as long as possible to manually activate them, hoping to make them last, until we were out of the mountain area and could find a auto parts store. Kids literally said "Wow!" when they saw how well new wipers work vs the last hour of crappy visibility. I had no idea the wipers were trashed, bc no reason to drive in the rain until that.