creep_nu Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) unless you have a garage or some place out of the elements to spray paint the results are just way too hit or miss. little too humid? foggy. too much wind? splotchy. it's an enormous PITA. I'm not particularly good with spray paint either, but that said I have had good luck with 2k clear in the past. it goes on a bit easier than rustoleum or whatever, and flattens out nice since the hardener has a good flash time. i keep threatening myself to take the headlights out so I can really polish em and paint em with 2k in the shed, just haven't gotten around to it. Edited October 30, 2020 by creep_nu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 ^same here! I wouldnt trust myself to spray that on lol! I just keep my buffed headlights liberally coated in whatever wax I use at the moment. Usually I wax the lights every few weeks or so.  It's been holding up, but then again car is garaged so that helps a lot for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 I'm going to do my GX headlights this weekend. I'll post the results. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 I sealed up the joint between the airbox and the radiator support air scoop. Inspired by those that did it before me here. I used 3M double sided tape, put a strip at the top and bottom, and it took 3 strips per side to get the scoop tight in the airbox opening. I can feel the 6whp already and I havent even started the car yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 Well, the Bosch AGM battery I bought a while back (little over 4.5 years) almost stranded me earlier this week (we got down into the teens) when leaving work, so it had to go - replaced it with a new one - really wanted to get a Deka AGM battery, but they aren't very common around here - fortunately, the NAPA batteries are made by East Penn, so bought one there (even got 20% off via their promo) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 (edited) Add me to the headlight restore weekend. With a drill and foam pad, I used black magic headlights lens restore polish, followed by some turtle wax polish. Typically this holds up well for a month or two. This time I used meguiars headlight spray after. Then I messed up. I did it in the garage and while the first coat was drying, some bugs and dust stuck onto it. I tried to pick them out and went down a rabbit hole. I basically had to restart it all. I did maybe 4-5 coats after each drying session. The next day I gave it another hand polish with the turtle polish compound. I'm happy now for 10 year old lights, so much you can do anyway. Looks promising for uv protection. the spray does make it look more glossy and smooth too. Just be sure you do in in a clean garage. Edited November 2, 2020 by ibr_adam09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aphex28 Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 nice!! P.S. I got this Sunshade from covercraft that actually fits perfectly in our windshields and folds up nice https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V2E024/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_wLAOFbMHYJTEF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 or here https://www.carid.com/2010-subaru-legacy-sun-shades/covercraft-uvs100-heat-shield-1677632863.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|Sedan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 oh sweet! but I'm happy with my free one lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 The recent headlight restoration posts inspired me to do mine. I was originally going to just replace them with aftermarket units with black internals, but they all have horrible reviews. My headlights were in really bad shape. It looked like someone sprayed some type of solvent on them to try and and do a quick fix, but just made them worse. Took me over an hour per side to get them to acceptable condition. I might try covering them in a light smoke vinyl, but the reflector lump on the sides looks like that will make it difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 nice!! P.S. I got this Sunshade from covercraft that actually fits perfectly in our windshields and folds up nice https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V2E024/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_wLAOFbMHYJTEF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 or here https://www.carid.com/2010-subaru-legacy-sun-shades/covercraft-uvs100-heat-shield-1677632863.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|Sedan  I think Covercraft makes the Subaru one, too https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/part-ymm/2012-subaru-legacy-sun-shade.html I have that for my car, but a standard covercraft for the wife's van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 So I attempted to do upgrade my FSB and bushings today. What a nightmare. After cutting the end links off the control arms and disconnecting the tie rods, it quickly became clear that I either need to lift the engine or remove the oil pan. I'm leaning toward removing the oil pan since I want to replace it anyway, the problem is that means I'll need to order one. So now I have to cut the end links off the original sway bar so I can install new links and put everything back the way it was for now. Â @foxrider28, did you ever get your belt situation sorted? The 4060653/6PK1657 Elite Poly-V/Gatorback belt I ordered on ebay fit perfectly. No struggle at all to put on. It replaced a Gates Micro-V K060651/6KP1655 that was showing some cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 I'm leaning toward removing the oil pan since I want to replace it anyway, the problem is that means I'll need to order one. So now I have to cut the end links off the original sway bar so I can install new links and put everything back the way it was for now.  Its pretty easy to lift the engine enough to swap it... I'm not sure what's on the inside of the pan to know if that'll get you enough clearance. If you're going to put new endlinks on anyway there's no harm in doing it now, but you don't NEED to have the FSB connected to drive around... just make sure it stays out of the way of the control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 Its pretty easy to lift the engine enough to swap it... I'm not sure what's on the inside of the pan to know if that'll get you enough clearance. Â Is there a simple and safe way to lift the engine enough to get the clearance? I assume it would be a good time to replace the engine mounts when you do this, as well, mine are 10 years old... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 Is there a simple and safe way to lift the engine enough to get the clearance? I assume it would be a good time to replace the engine mounts when you do this, as well, mine are 10 years old... I'm in my garage right now. Decided to just try and lift the engine. I made a major goof and tried to use my engine support bar on the fenders because the strut towers are too far back. Just spent the last 45 minutes straightening the fenders back out because they sunk about 1/4" at the front. As soon as I noticed it happening I jacked the engine up on the front mount to take the weight off the bar. I got the bars swapped, but even with the engine up as far as it would go, it still put up a fight. The AC hose was stretched to its limit and I had to remove the oil fill neck to get the hose to stretch that last little bit I needed. In retrospect, I think the ideal thing to do is just jack up from the front engine mount. I had to use a piece of wood to reach from the jack to the mount. Well, back to work I go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 I got the bars swapped, but even with the engine up as far as it would go, it still put up a fight. The AC hose was stretched to its limit and I had to remove the oil fill neck to get the hose to stretch that last little bit I needed.  I still have not gotten the Whiteline sway bar kit that I ordered, but based on your experience I'll wait until the engine comes out early next year to have it installed. I remember a YT video from MRT Performance in Australia and they mention the front swaybar install is a "nightmare", Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 Welp, that was a frustrating yet productive day. Front and rear sway bars are done. They were both used bars I picked up on ebay. The (epoxy?) coating was worn off were the bushings sit and there was quite a bit of corrosion. I sanded the areas back down to clean metal and then tightly wrapped them in yellow PTFE tape. Before I put the poly bushings on I gave them a thin layer of nickel-graf anti-seize/lubricant.  Took it for a quick spin around the block when I was done. It's a significant improvement to say the least. Body roll is is almost non-existent now and I'm still on the 9 year old factory struts. While I was doing the rear sway bar I figured that would be a good time to install poly diff inserts. That was another mini disaster. There's not a lot of room to work in that area and both the diff studs decided to back out when I was trying to loosen the nuts. Eventually managed to get it done though. Also went to town on the exhaust shields with a DIY hose clamp kit. I used all ten of the screw pieces and and good amount of the 10ft of strap. Got the GT splash guard mounted as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 I'm in my garage right now. Decided to just try and lift the engine. I made a major goof and tried to use my engine support bar on the fenders because the strut towers are too far back. Just spent the last 45 minutes straightening the fenders back out because they sunk about 1/4" at the front. As soon as I noticed it happening I jacked the engine up on the front mount to take the weight off the bar. I got the bars swapped, but even with the engine up as far as it would go, it still put up a fight. The AC hose was stretched to its limit and I had to remove the oil fill neck to get the hose to stretch that last little bit I needed. In retrospect, I think the ideal thing to do is just jack up from the front engine mount. I had to use a piece of wood to reach from the jack to the mount. Well, back to work I go... Did you disconnect the front motor mounts and two transmission mounts. [i haven't done the front sway bar, so I don't know how high you need to jack the engine.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Did you disconnect the front motor mounts and two transmission mounts. [i haven't done the front sway bar, so I don't know how high you need to jack the engine.]Â Yes, the two side mounts and the one in the front. You need to jack the engine up as far as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Yep, what he said ^^. Unbolt all three mounts, and lift it as high as you can without ripping any hoses. I also vaguely remember unbolting the dipstick tube for this as well to get an extra little bit of hose clearance. I happened to have an engine hoist at the time, so that's what I used to lift. Jacking on the front mount is a reasonable option as long as nothing slips. With the engine all the way up, I didn't think it was that bad... the whole process took maybe 3 hours, but more than half of that was figuring out how high it really needed to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Got my car back after repair for this issue: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5996710&postcount=2216 Shop replaced the missing bolt on the v-band with a stainless steel one, replaced the rusted coolant lines on the turbo (2nd time I've had to do this), and had to replace the oil pan on the turbo. Apparently the pan crumbled when they tried to disassemble things to reach the v-band. They inspected the turbo via inspection camera and saw no obvious damage. Guess I'm good to go now... A little worried still that something else could go wrong. I'm debating removing the intercooler and looking inside for any sings of metal shavings and potentially cleaning it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Got my car back after repair for this issue: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5996710&postcount=2216 Shop replaced the missing bolt on the v-band with a stainless steel one, replaced the rusted coolant lines on the turbo (2nd time I've had to do this), and had to replace the oil pan on the turbo. Apparently the pan crumbled when they tried to disassemble things to reach the v-band. They inspected the turbo via inspection camera and saw no obvious damage. Guess I'm good to go now... A little worried still that something else could go wrong. I'm debating removing the intercooler and looking inside for any sings of metal shavings and potentially cleaning it out. Do it man, you'll regret it if you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexmed2002 Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Do it man, you'll regret it if you don't. Agreed. It certainly won't hurt anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Anyone cleaned an intercooler before? I was reading about using kerosene to flush it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 (edited) My trunk has been leaking in heavy rain. ~ 3 inch diameter pools in right side of spare tire well and right shelf next to spare tire well. So not excessive amounts but enough to smell musty if left unattended. Finally got around to folding down the back seat to look in while letting garden hose run down rear window into the gap between trunk lid and glass.  From what I can tell, water was getting under the trunk opening weather strip and flowing down to the bottom of the gasket where it dripped into the trunk at an sheet metal seam. The steel lip that holds the gasket was rusty under the gasket along the bottom of the trunk opening, suggesting it has been channeling water and getting wet for a while.  I treated the rust with POR15 and reinstalled the gasket with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Half an inch of rain expected tomorrow, hopefully it’s fixed! Edited November 11, 2020 by NVAKeith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted November 11, 2020 Share Posted November 11, 2020 Anyone cleaned an intercooler before? I was reading about using kerosene to flush it out. last time i had it off i cleaned mine. i just used a can of brake cleaner, sprayed it in from both sides and swirled it around some before pouring it out, rinsed with water, blasted with compressed air, and left in the sun to bake and dry. mine wasn't particularly dirty, but still had some residue come out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now