bdcvg Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 The swap thread sticky goes over the complete subframe swap. It looks pretty involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruisemobile2 Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 She's still going! We are now sitting at 300,445 miles on the odometer haha http://i63.tinypic.com/2gu0hw3.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2nicksg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 She's still going! We are now sitting at 300,445 miles on the odometer haha http://i63.tinypic.com/2gu0hw3.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2nicksg.jpg How many engine rebuilds in those 300K miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 Pretty sure just one. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADIKT Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellawesome Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 Finally able to post in here! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyr13 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) Koni Shocks Eibach wagon Lowering springs 5/8 aluminum rear spacer from Subtle solutions spec B Aluminum LCA with W0506/KCA334 spec b aluminum upper control arm Spec B Aluminum rear trailing arm with W63398/W63397 Whiteline KTA124 -2 degrees camber rear 04 STI 5x100 BBS No rubbing or fender modification Edited June 30, 2018 by Valkyr13 info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E46erak Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 (edited) Koni Shocks Epic Engineering Springs 3/8" rear spacer - would go for 5/8" next time LGT rear UCA with KCA399 (not happy with these, soon to be replaced with adjustable length Megan arms) ~ 3.3 deg. of negative camber Megan Racing adjustable length rear LCA/toe arm Stock wheel/tire No rub No fender modifications Edited June 29, 2018 by E46erak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisJapan Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Everything stock but wheels: 245/45 18" with +30 offset... The rear tires are being chiseled by the fenders... I have rolled one side with no difference in rub. I think I may have to angle grind where the fender meets the body since that part cannot be rolled. Definitely need to get a camber kit. I'm looking into the BC Racing coilovers (for ride height and dampening adjustability) for the Outback, but it will be a while before I can afford that plus rear upper and lower control arms, new bumpstops (or can I just remove them since I will have coilovers?), and rear trailing arm. Am I missing something? Thank you guys for posting your set ups with id #s... it really helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acerguy Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 First I would recommend you head over to http://www.willtheyfit.com and take a look at what the stock wheel/tire setup looks like compared to what you've got. The 30mm offset with that tire size is going to be problematic without a lot of work is my guess. Second would be to find the post from Thomistopheles that shows how he fit his wheels...specifically how he trimmed the fender flairs. Here you go: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/thomistopheles-06-obxt-limited-baller-husky-hauler-iii-247594.html?p=5337565#post5337565 Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 (edited) Dirty as **** Outback with new toy Everything stock but wheels: 245/45 18" with +30 offset... The rear tires are being chiseled by the fenders... I have rolled one side with no difference in rub. I think I may have to angle grind where the fender meets the body since that part cannot be rolled. Definitely need to get a camber kit. I'm looking into the BC Racing coilovers (for ride height and dampening adjustability) for the Outback, but it will be a while before I can afford that plus rear upper and lower control arms, new bumpstops (or can I just remove them since I will have coilovers?), and rear trailing arm. Am I missing something? Thank you guys for posting your set ups with id #s... it really helps! Take a look at my build thread for pictures of the fender work / hackery I did. I think I am getting rub rear driver side still though. Not chiseling my fenders but actually hitting the fender liner / body of the car. Unsure why the passenger side is fine. Edited July 9, 2018 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellawesome Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Bilstein HD struts King springs- KSRL29/KSFL42 Full legacy gt suspension/spacers removed 255/40/18 What’s the best option for toe and camber adjustment? Does anyone have experience with the SPC lower control arms? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 cruised past 125k yesterday, apparently. filled it with gas and while marking down the numbers i noticed i'd missed it by 22 miles... bought it with 55k on the clock, so 70k is all me. and 7 years. here's to another 70k and/or 7 years, whichever comes first. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) I have the SPC control arm set in the rear. I'm not totally happy with them, as it's pretty tricky to set them to the right length by yourself. I needed to jack the tire up to get it to sit right, and then had to hold the tire in place while trying to tighten the set-bolts. Another way to approach it would have been to just preset the length of the arms, and then match the alignment with the stock bolts. But you're fighting it the whole time, and I'm not totally sold on the strength of the arm after working it so hard to get it into place. Like they were binding just to get them into place. I went with them because they use rubber bushings instead of urethane like all of the Whiteline products. And the cheaper cost of entry. If I were to do it again, I'd just get the Whiteline arms and be done with it. Edited July 18, 2018 by lil'redwagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukasm62 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 I always liked the look of the newer outbacks lowered. Do you guys just drop them by shortening the struts (through springs or legacy struts) or do you have to remove the outback sub frame spacers as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Mostly just Legacy struts / springs. You can remove the sub-frame spacers as well, but not a lot of us go down that path. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 My understanding is if you go with spacer removal you need more of the GT parts like the drive shaft and others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eivind Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTB Limited Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 Two from the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangado1 Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Looks like there are two ways to go on my 06 OB to lower it. Either struts/springs or Coil overs. It's my DD so its going to see winter weather here in Pennsylvania. The question is can I throw a set of KYB's and Tein or H&R's on it with some saggy but spacers and be done with it. Or if I grab a set of the BC Coil's specific for the OB will that be a better application? Where I am going with this question is is it a plug and play or from reading on here is the Upper Control Arm need to be addressed? I understand the bump stops must be remover because of their height and replaced with LGT wagon versions. I really don't want to get into too much. I just went through a full suspension replacement on my 05 LGT with Whiteline and Fortune 500's including new aluminum LCA. I am not looking for slammed either just an inch or more of wheel gap would be preferred.. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eivind Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangado1 Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 Can you elaborate on you suspension set up please.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eivind Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 Sure. -KW Variant 2 coilovers -Legacy rear top mounts -Whiteline rear sway bar (BSR39) -Legacy rear bump stops -Legacy rear UCA's w/Whiteline camber bushings (KCA399) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruisemobile2 Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Haven't posted in a while but thought we could use this here. This is my front right BC Racing BR coilover after 75+k miles on them...yes, they lasted that long. They decided to blow just a few hundred miles ago... http://i68.tinypic.com/fyed77.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/n5o2ex.jpg And here's a nice little comperasion of a BC Racing BR "Outback spec" coilover (taller) and a BC Racing BR "Legacy GT spec". (shorter). There is a difference in shock travel and overall shock length...something that is not mentioned on BC Racing website. Only difference would be in part numbers. This is why I had been able to travel offroad or do some highspeed runs on graveled roads with no harm. http://i68.tinypic.com/152f9yg.jpg So if you plan to order BC Racing BR coilovers for your Outback, make sure you ask the shop you're buying from whether or not they are "Outback spec" because I received a lot messages from people that they bought BC Racing BR coilovers but they got saggy butt...even when the rear coilover is at its maxed height...this is because the LGT spec coilovers are much shorter so that means they bought LGT spec coilovers. So just some fruit for thought Decided to go a little lower since my OBXT spec coilovers were at their lowest setting and couldn't get rid of that tiny little wheel gap up front.... I don't plan to offroad anytime soon so I went with LGT spec coilover shocks up front. http://i63.tinypic.com/bfqdzk.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arsene Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Loving the new height, cruisemobile2! ^^^ Featuring my friend's 05 Legacy, Lexus, and 93 LGT (in the garage). Finally got some decent pics to share in this thread! Mods/parts: Arc 02 18x8.5 +30, Nokian zline a/s 215/45, BC BR Extreme Low Outback Specific coilovers, and Whiteline rear links (thanks to cruisemobile's recommendation!). I have some rubbing mainly in the front, and on the fender guard when the coilovers are on a soft setting and going over bumps. More mods coming soon. This is as low as I could go and still get the jack out from under the car. Now that my roadtrip is over I'll probably make some simple ramps to drop it more. The next roadblock is the speedbump-from-hell that I have to go over everyday. Going to try to measure how much clearance I have and drop an appropriate amount. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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