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ChrisJapan

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Everything posted by ChrisJapan

  1. @%1; how much are those seats? Are they in good condition? Need to look for a junkyard in my area. Any suggestions for the NYC area? My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  2. Another neighborhood shot, but found the same exact year and paint code! It’s really cool to see the before and after side by side. Unfortunately, I could only double park next to it, so the proportions are wrong. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  3. That’s one of my bucket list items!!! How’d you source the items? My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  4. 2008 Outback vs 2015+ WRX Happened to be the only parking spot in a 15 block radius, NYC PARKING!! I always get giddy when parking next to a Subaru fellow Around 10 years difference of development and styling. I think Subaru can do better. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  5. Just loaded up the car with 20 bags of soil and a 12’ x 26’ roll of astroturf and 2 people. I was nervous since I have the car lowered on coilovers, but it handled it much better than the stock suspension since I have the ability of turning the dampening all the way up. It took 800lbs of soil and the 80lbs of AstroTurf like a champ! +1 for lowered outback My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  6. Haha thanks for the 2 cents! I found an image from your build (Damn, you have done a lot!!!) with the HRBTHLPM (hot racer boy tow hook license plate mount). I combed the internet, and I think you have the only photo of an Outback with a HRBTHLPM. Still undecided. Shit, my account is in German now and I don't know why.
  7. CV boots tear frequently unfortunately since their next to the exhaust. I would just replace the boots if the axles are still good. It’s a messy job, but not too difficult and it’s cheap. If you wait too long then you’ll have to replace the axle. Do your best to get OEM since aftermarket have terrible tolerances. Definitely inspect every bushing on all arms, diff, etc. I had a clunk towards the front of the car and it was a broken trans mount. It’s a cheap part. You can tell if the clunk is the trans by jacking it up, and shaking the drive shaft for any play. Other frequent issues are the sway bar end links. I would also change the PCV valve for maintenance. I had shaking at highway speeds. Nothing fixed it, including alignments, multiple wheel balancing, new bushings, new bearings and axle... it ended up being was old rotors (not warped, just heavily rutted). To sum it up, things that went wrong on my 3.0 OBW in the past 6 years... normal wear and tear on suspension components, wheel bearings, CV boots, brake components, and a warn out steering rack (still using it and it’s fine). Most of the miles are from Brooklyn and Manhattan. I’m at 120,000. MrSubaru on YouTube is great for Subaru maintenance. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  8. Yes, 100% agree... although I don’t know how to change caster nor I don’t know if it’s possible??? And lmao I hate that you noticed the car dealer stickers. I literally removed the sticker yesterday. It gave me anxiety every time I saw it. Still need new front license plate frame, or one of those hot racer boy tow hook license plate mounts. It’s in the shopping cart but I don’t have a job because of COVID. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  9. So I was able to perform a partial alignment (reasons below) for the first time since lowering 2” with the car on the ground with two pieces of plywood under each tire. It worked for the most part, but it's hard to make adjustments with less room underneath and with having more weight on the components. The toe was way off, 3/8” off on one of the wheels. I don't have the luxury of jacking up the car, make adjustments, and driving around to see how the car settles since I live in NYC and have street parking. As for the frozen jamb nut on the inner tie rod... I PB blasted it, torched it, PB blasted for 24 hrs, torched it again, then banged it with a BFH, PB blasted... it's now free! Next issue... the jamb nuts on the new rear Whiteline adjustable arms for toe are too big (I think it's 24mm). I gotta get a bigger set of wrenches. I was a wuss and didn't want to ruin them with my pipe wrench. Rear toe is toed in by 1/8" Other issue: when setting camber in the front using the camber plates, I was able set it to max negative camber but I wasn't able to adjust it back from max... it's too much weight to move while the car is on the ground. My Humble Build: https://wheelwell.com/christopher-setter/2sog/2008-subaru-outback
  10. Damn, I'm digging your build! I didn't mean for this to happen but we both have very similar setups... I've got 245/45 with the 18" XXR 530s too. Everything suspension-wise is Whiteline. I installed BC BR with Swift springs for the Outback. I want to go to a smaller tire as well, it's too meaty and it gets chewed up. I just re-rolled the fenders and added more camber so I hope it stops the rubbing, but I haven't given it a drive since I made the changes (I live in NYC and I don't want to lose my parking spot during this crisis) The smaller tire set-up looks great. Would you recommend the change to a smaller tire?
  11. Where are you located? My brother is looking for an Outback/Legacy with manual trans. Nice spec list! Do you have any other photos? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Here’s Turbo Yoda’s advice on the flat 6 line up, he has great insight and has built many H6s in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Here’s a nice photo of my street side NYC garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. So I attempted to align the car yesterday and noticed that my newly installed white line sway bar is in contact with the exhaust... bummer. Anyone run into this issue? It may be my eBay exhaust’s fault which was in contact with one of the rear arms until I replaced it with a white line adjustable arm since it had more clearance. Other issue is the jamb nuts on the inner tie rods are seized. I left them soaking in Pb blaster overnight. I’ll try again tomorrow, and will bring out the torch if I must. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I accidentally posted this in the wrong group(what did you to your OB), sorry for the redundancy! Just made ramps for my car to keep it level using scraps from my wood shop. Used the left over wood for wheel chocks. This is to help keep it level while doing alignments. The street in front of my house in Brooklyn had a 3.5” slope to the driver side, then a stockpile of dog shit (I hate working under the car with wiffs of shit breezing in). To make matters worse, on a couple of occasions I’ve accidentally crawled on poop and cockroaches. Didn’t notice until my roommates told me! To help set camber, I’ve cut a piece of angle iron to the length of the diameter of my rims and attached a magnetic angle finder that I use to true my table saw blade. I will be doing the string method to align. It seems to be accurate enough, this guy on YT did and took to an alignment shop and he was spot on. Next step, wait for a sunny day and start aligning! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Just made ramps for my car to keep it level using scraps from my wood shop. Used the left over wood for wheel chocks. This is to help keep it level while doing alignments. The street in front of my house in Brooklyn had a 3.5” slope to the driver side, then a stockpile of dog shit (I hate working under the car with wiffs of shit breezing in). To make matters worse, on a couple of occasions I’ve accidentally crawled on poop and cockroaches. Didn’t notice until my roommates told me! To help set camber, I’ve cut a piece of angle iron to the length of the diameter of my rims and attached a magnetic angle finder that I use to true my table saw blade. I will be doing the string method to align. It seems to be accurate enough, this guy on YT did and took to an alignment shop and he was spot on. Next step, wait for a sunny day and start aligning! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I definitely followed Rhitters post but failed to Cut the tabs before rolling I used to leave out in Beale AFB, beautiful roads out there. Best road I’ve driven in my life was just south of Middletown CA. I rented a 2018 Mustang ($35/day from SFO). I was shaking from the adrenaline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. FebrezeMe, damn that looks good. Digging those headlights. Rebourne, nice pointers. I was thinking that I could use the lower bolts to push the tire in or out. And the tip with the plastic trays is genius. I was wondering how to change toe without jacking up the car since every time the car is lifted and placed back on the ground, the suspension is not settled. I think I’ll also stack wood under the car to get it level since I have street parking. I’ll give it shot sometime this week and report back. Again, it’s hard to tell if I avoid rub when all of the tires are mangled up already. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks for the suggestions! I'll try to give it an alignment... Maybe. I live in Brooklyn, the road in front of my house has a bad sideways incline (which is damn impossible to find a spot, I'm parked in front of my apartment for the first time in 12 days). I usually do work in front of my stoop on the sidewalk with just enough room to remove a tire and block all pedestrian traffic just so I can run a 100' extension chord for power tools. Neighbors and people with strollers hate me. Luckily i have camber plates for the front, so that should be easy. I have adjustable arms in the rear. I'm scared to jack up the car, since I've tipped it over once on an uneven road. And the local Pep Boys doesn't have an even parking lot. The local Autozone has some SHADY characters there lol Any thoughts on adjusting front camber using the lower bolts vs camber plates?
  20. Let me know how that goes. My steering rack is SHOT and I would like to install the 15' STI steering rack. I heard that you just need a longer u-joint like the Perrin Steering Lockdown Kit (PSP-SUS-565)
  21. I just realized the the subaruoutback.org's version of this thread is for lifted Outbacks. I feel dumb... I'm really new to this stuff Finally got to replacing all of the suspension bits, super excited! Just got done rolling/cutting the fenders again the other day. Too bad the tires are so gouged out from riding it for 30 min without rolling, I can't tell if the rubbing has fully stopped or not. Wish I had cut the tabs behind the fender lip before rolling. Even after cutting the tabs, I cant get them out since they're jammed in there now. Can't get a more aggressive roll without removing the lips, then removing some tabs... I'm not removing the lip, too scared to break the other tabs.
  22. Yea, it's too meaty!!! The car just gets hungry and eats the tires up Plus, I'm a woodworker and load the car at least once a month with wood and power machines (including chop saw, band saw, cast iron table saw, etc) Need to step down to a smaller profile tire, but I would like to keep the factory OB diameter. I have 245/45 on 18x8.75", which is the same as factory diameter. I think I'll get a 225/50 next time, which makes me sad to give up some width. Will this help the tire slope inwards and help with my car's hunger for tires, or would it not effect that much? I've already done some heavy cutting and rolling of the fenders. I would like to take it to an alignment shop but I damn covid-19 closed all the shops and left my out of a job. I guess I'll just dial in more camber for now.
  23. Here's the Outback with BC Coilovers BR Series and Swift Springs. The spring rates were their recommended rates. I think it's 8K front, and 6K rear, or vice versa. Parts installed: - BC BR Coilovers - Rear Bump Stops - Rear Upper Control Arms - Whiteline KTA124 Rear Control Arm Assembly - Whiteline KCA313Front Roll centre/bump steer correction kit - Whiteline BSR39Z Rear Black Sway Bar - Moog K750023 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit Rear - WhiteLine Sway Bar Front Endlinks (Previously had Moog in front and ruined after 2 years) - White Line LCA Lower Inner Bushing - White Line LCA Lower Inner Front Bushing (Both previous LCA bushings were ruined after 2 years)
  24. Finally made moves!!!!! I got the BC BR series coilovers with swift springs. I know that the coilovers can be harsh, so I got the swift springs in hopes that they will give it a smoother ride. I also got: white line rear sway bar Moog end links white line adjustable lateral arms White bump steer correction ball joints Legacy lower control arm Legacy bump stops I’ll send over some photos after they’re installed. After moving, I don’t have a flat street in front of my house, so I can’t work on my own car anymore. Getting a garage is impossible in NYC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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