Eivind

The manufacturer is AL-KO. https://www.alko-tech.com/en Though I can't find this exact hitch on their site. When googling, I find this used one for instance: https://archiwum.allegro.pl/oferta/subaru-outback-2006r-hak-alko-sbl58n1-i8464817435.html Part number seems to be SBL 58 N-1.

Tow hitch:

The rims are "offroad spec", and designed to clear brakes. The Black Rhino wheels are a popular choice for Subarus, and from what I understand they clear most brakes up to 300 mm diameter. Including WRX, but not STI. Rear wiper has been deleted, it was one of the first mods I did. Sure, I'll take some pictures some day. It's a detachable tow bar, delivered on the car as an OEM option. Manufacturer of it is AL-KO.

New setup on the Outback. After being lowered on the KW V2 coilovers for 3,5 years, I needed my car to be a little more practical in regards to ground clearance and towing trailers etc. Considered selling it and getting something else, but decided to lift it instead. It's sitting on BFG KO2s 215/75-15. Wheels are Black Rhino Rumble 15x7 ET15. Lift is nothing crazy, just 30 mm strut spacers in the front, and 40 mm strut spacers in the back.

Summer setup: Fifteen52 Turbomac 18x9.0 ET30 Toyo Proxes Sport 235/40-18 Winter setup: Fifteen52 Tarmac 18x8.5 ET30 Michelin X-Ice Xi3 215/45-18

Well, yes, the subaru diesel engines have gotten a pretty bad reputation due to these early engine failures. This engine also failed at around 110k km (previous owner), and was rebuilt with a brand new short block from Subaru. I was told this new short block also was revised and strengthened compared to the early one that failed. However, I think a lot of the problems are caused by the DPF and the EGR systems. On this particular car (BL/BP platform), the DPF is an unmanaged/passive type. This means no sensors, no regen cycles, nothing. If the DPF is full/clogged, you wouldn't get any warning or CEL. And the EGR, which sends exhaust full of soot into the intake and through the engine, contributes to contaminate the engine oil. The service manual states to change the oil every 15k km, which I also think is far too long intervals considering this fact. So, with the DPF removed, and the EGR blocked off, I hope to beat the odds with this engine. I know a lot of people who have done the same thing, has had steady, reliable engines. I also change the engine oil and filter at about 5-8k km just to be safe. I only have about 30k km on the new short block, so I expect it to last. I just love this as a daily driver. Plenty of low down torque, and high mpg numbers. And to put it in perspective, if you search around for engine problems, it's not only for Subaru. We were on the verge of buying a BMW for my wife, and were considering either a 2.0 diesel or 2.0 petrol. Turned out both of these engines were suffering from quite a lot of problems themselves. Like registry chain stretching, which is a "pull engine" kind of job to replace it, since it's located towards the fire wall. This of course is if you got lucky and replaced it before it seized. Also problems relating to injectors, fuel pumps, coil packs, etc. etc. And Audi/VAG has also had a lot of problems with high oil consumption etc. I guess you can search any car you like, and find different common problems with it. We ended up with a japanese car again, a Mitsubishi ASX (Outlander Sport in the states).

Long time, no post - just dropping some pictures and a short video on here. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOg6JiHUDVU]2009 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.0D EE20 - Snow_2 - YouTube[/ame]

Got myself a new camera as an early christmas present.

Aha, I got it off of eBay. Black: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-64-Kyosho-SUBARU-LEGACY-TOURING-WAGON-BLACK-diecast-car-model/273503636432?hash=item3fae164bd0:g:PHEAAOSw-RhaT8Hl:rk:3:pf:0 Silver: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-64-Kyosho-SUBARU-LEGACY-TOURING-WAGON-SILVER-diecast-car-model/273539241660?hash=item3fb03596bc:g:4QgAAOSwKz5bbHlH:rk:6:pf:0 White. https://www.ebay.com/itm/8015-Kyosho-1-64-SUBARU-LEGACY-Touring-Wagon-White-Mint-in-Box-Tracking-Number/163128027634?epid=1739270223&hash=item25fb3029f2:g:ZI0AAOSw2LZaUxWn:rk:6:pf:0

Thank you! What is your question about the diecast model?

I'll soon be getting a co-driver.

Thank you! The Legacy rear UCA's gives more room for travel to not hit the bump stops.

Here is a couple more pictures.

Yeah, I probably should have. But that would've required me to have the wheel alignment/tracking done two times a year. Luckily it digs through the snow at this height also.

Thanks everyone I am really happy with the result. They are wrapped in Michelin X-Ice XI3's. This is a studless winter tyre with a rubber compound suited for the nordic conditions. Given our long winters with a lot of snow and ice. The Michelin Alpin's are better for wet roads and slush, and better suits the climate in Central-Europe.

Well, here they are. Been detailing through the weekend. Fitted the Tarmacs yesterday and took the car out of the garage to rinse off all the polishing dust. Waxing later today.

Yeah, I'm now running -1 in the rear, and about -0,3 in the front. I think so too! They are now ready for mounting, but before that I am going to give the car a good detail before the winter sets in with its grime and salt.

New winter setup 18x8.5 ET30

Sure. -KW Variant 2 coilovers -Legacy rear top mounts -Whiteline rear sway bar (BSR39) -Legacy rear bump stops -Legacy rear UCA's w/Whiteline camber bushings (KCA399)

After lowering the car, I got some negative camber in the rear, and as you guys know, this is not adjustable on these cars. Therefore, I went for the Whiteline KCA399 camber bushings, which basicly is poly-bushings with a bolt that has an eccentric hole. I have also this week been to the local workshop for a new wheel alignment. I also used this opportunity to change from Outback-specific UCA's, to Legacy. Used an hydraulic press to press out the outer bushings in the new UCA. Replaced with Whiteline KCA399: Difference between Outback and Legacy UCA's: