Flinkly Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 You know... it's interesting what Mike says about adding extra line, in conjunction with that ID conference video posted. Perhaps I'll add another foot and a half of rubber fuel line and see what it does. At the moment, I have maybe 4" total of rubber fuel line in my system thanks to the ID braided lines. Did you ever get your sorted? Not yet. The thing that still gets me is that mine seems entirely mechanical. No matter the changes i made to the tune, it was always there. I was able to change the amplitude, it seemed, with changes to scalar and latency though. But that shifted that hole graph around. I felt that i'd given up ~0% correction in places for lower peaks at my rough spots. And the STI FPR did nothing. Did seem calmer while it relearned, but correction peaks were still there. Hoping to move to IAG rails, ID1000s, and tune from TA and be rid of it. I might be an engineer, and love me some DOEs, but an engine system is incredibly complex. No changes go unnoticed by all components. Stay stock, stay happy. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Not yet. The thing that still gets me is that mine seems entirely mechanical. No matter the changes i made to the tune, it was always there. I was able to change the amplitude, it seemed, with changes to scalar and latency though. But that shifted that hole graph around. I felt that i'd given up ~0% correction in places for lower peaks at my rough spots. And the STI FPR did nothing. Did seem calmer while it relearned, but correction peaks were still there. Hoping to move to IAG rails, ID1000s, and tune from TA and be rid of it. I might be an engineer, and love me some DOEs, but an engine system is incredibly complex. No changes go unnoticed by all components. Stay stock, stay happy. You know, I hate to say it... but the combination of ID100's and billet alloy rails will most likely increase amplitude of the effect. For instance, on stock fueling I had NO stumble at all on my stage 2 tune. Nothing. Not even a correction spike. Now, with my ID1000's, ID rails, and stage 3 tune... LOTS of stumble. I'm actually incapable of doing 2700-3000rpm on the highway, now that the ECU has relearned. As soon as I get into that zone in anything other than open loop conditions, AFR's climb rapidly and it bucks around etc. As soon as 3000rpm hits, back to normal like nothing ever happened. This really sucks because that just so happens to be 70-75mph. Keep in mind, this is with zero compensation adjustment, as on the dyno we couldn't really get it to show its ugly face, so no adjustment was made. I'm going to try a different regulator setup, most likely Radium with a Bosh reg. cap, and a more robust damper on feed side with lots of extra rubber fuel line. I'm saying my prayers that it corrects itself that way... Stay stock stay happy is damn right. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 yeah, was thinking i'd put in the fuel rail dampers that IAG put a port in for. and there will be tons more "rubber" hose vs the metal lines it has now, and a lot more liquid to help dampen everything too. regardless, i need more fueling than stock, or i'd go back. or at least i need more for my plans for the car. forward is the only option. maybe the fact that i'll be E-tuning with TA will help us resolve the issue... * dreams that things will somehow be simpler in the future * * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 5eat -> 6spd? decisions, decisions... '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 5eat -> 6spd? decisions, decisions... How much time, patience and money do you have? * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 5eat -> 6spd? decisions, decisions... I hope you're talking about just buying a 5MT wagon converted to a 6MT... MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Also, found this funny. Remember when I said this a while back in my build thread? This build I'll be calling the "Daily driver racewagon". A.K.A.- A large ephasis on reliability, practicality, and drivability. Power levels will be kept conservative, with stock fueling and turbo. I feel at stage 2, it has more than enough power for my needs, as a commuter to school. I also drive over sixty miles a day, so getting 11mpg on E85 is not on my radar. The majority of mods that will happen, post engine swap, will be chassis and handling related. Trying to create a comfy yet dialed wagon, the kind of wagon other people get jealous of. So no, you wont see fancy bodywork, or a set of SSR's wrapped in RE71-R's. Visually, my OBXT probably won't stray from the norm! Yeah... not anymore! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 5eat -> 6spd? decisions, decisions... We did the 5eat to 5mt swap on my car and I couldn't be happier. I will do the 6mt once my funds recover from the build . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Car got an air intake, DW1000s, DW300 and FMIC in the last month. I just got the VF52 up to 21 peak and started to dial in this past week. Transmission said nope nope nope after 1 day of fun. Turned it down to 17 yesterday. I can barely pass on the highway now. Just slips. And I'm pretty sure I've lost overdrive. It used to drop a few hundred RPM in 5th on the highway coasting and release it with a little throttle. Now it just stays there. This symptom has me wondering if it is the TC. I also get a violent shudder at peak tq very similar to ClimberDs symptoms before his clutches were verified toasted. Here are the options that I see: Option 1 - Rebuild current transmission, install TransGo kit and center diff bushings. ~1200ish Option 2 - Buy local 175k transmission, rebuild, install TransGo kit and center diff bushings. ~1400ish Option 3 - Buy local 80k transmission, install TransGo kit and center diff bushings. ~1000ish Option 4 - Buy local 120k 6spd, rear diff, shifter (3k). Then source all the other stuff. (rear axles, driveshaft, cross member, pedals, new clutch/pp) Total ~4500ish? A new torque converter is not factored into any of auto trans options. Im assuming that I could do a 5spd swap for 1-2k less than the 6spd. Maybe cheaper. But I'm not sure I'd want to go through all this for a 5spd. As far as time goes...Im not totally sure that it's a much bigger deal to put the 6spd in. Ive got a rear subframe almost ready to install, so that covers the rear diff, driveshaft and axles. And the trans has to come out anyways to fix the problem. Cross member looks fairly easy to make work. Then installing pedals and wiring up a couple sensors. DCCD may be tricky, but wont it still work without the controller? Am I missing anything major? I just have a really hard time sinking money into another slushbox. I wish I could ride in a car with a modded valve body and see what it feels like. But Ive really never loved the feel from this one. Ive driven several 6spd cars (new/old STis and a couple Spec Bs) and absolutely love them. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 We did the 5eat to 5mt swap on my car and I couldn't be happier. I will do the 6mt once my funds recover from the build . Well then, I stand corrected! I was always under the impression it wasn't even remotely worth it. I will admit, if it were me, I would just find a nice 5MT wagon and go that route(for simplicity) since this is my only car. But if it wasn't... Car got an air intake, DW1000s, DW300 and FMIC in the last month. I just got the VF52 up to 21 peak and started to dial in this past week. Transmission said nope nope nope after 1 day of fun. Turned it down to 17 yesterday. I can barely pass on the highway now. Just slips. And I'm pretty sure I've lost overdrive. It used to drop a few hundred RPM in 5th on the highway coasting and release it with a little throttle. Now it just stays there. This symptom has me wondering if it is the TC. I also get a violent shudder at peak tq very similar to ClimberDs symptoms before his clutches were verified toasted. Here are the options that I see: Option 1 - Rebuild current transmission, install TransGo kit and center diff bushings. ~1200ish Option 2 - Buy local 175k transmission, rebuild, install TransGo kit and center diff bushings. ~1400ish Option 3 - Buy local 80k transmission, install TransGo kit and center diff bushings. ~1000ish Option 4 - Buy local 120k 6spd, rear diff, shifter (3k). Then source all the other stuff. (rear axles, driveshaft, cross member, pedals, new clutch/pp) Total ~4500ish? A new torque converter is not factored into any of auto trans options. Im assuming that I could do a 5spd swap for 1-2k less than the 6spd. Maybe cheaper. But I'm not sure I'd want to go through all this for a 5spd. As far as time goes...Im not totally sure that it's a much bigger deal to put the 6spd in. Ive got a rear subframe almost ready to install, so that covers the rear diff, driveshaft and axles. And the trans has to come out anyways to fix the problem. Cross member looks fairly easy to make work. Then installing pedals and wiring up a couple sensors. DCCD may be tricky, but wont it still work without the controller? Am I missing anything major? I just have a really hard time sinking money into another slushbox. I wish I could ride in a car with a modded valve body and see what it feels like. But Ive really never loved the feel from this one. Ive driven several 6spd cars (new/old STis and a couple Spec Bs) and absolutely love them. Edit: This is pretty much exactly why I have an ~18psi boost peak, and a very linear boost curve that doesn't really hit full on until ~3700. I'm okay with sacrificing the power for longevity of my 215k mike trans. Personally, given the time. I would contact IPT for their sources on heavier duty clutches/steels and I would rebuild with the appropriate parts. Alternatively, buy a 5MT wagon with a blown motor, swapity-swap, eat the money on a retune. I'd also do clutch/blast plates/short throw shifter as well. People knock the 5 speed like it's not even worth it's weight in dirt. I know many people who've autocrossed them for years on stage 2+ setups with no issues. Just don't be an idiot when you're shifting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 ECU and rewiring. You'd need a 5sp ecu to use a 5spd, and a 6sp for a 6sp. And if it was a 5 to a 6, there's no rewiring. Not sure about auto, but i suspect there would be. If it was just swapping parts, and you could buy the complete kit (axles, driveshaft, ecu, diff, tranny, cross members) i'd say go for it. And i only want a spec b 6sp for the lower rev at cruise in 6th for efficiency. Well, and a tougher stock clutch. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Ecu works for both. Just flash the MT ROM to it. I went through the 5mt to 6mt swap thread and parts are up to 5k, including auto to manual stuff. Cross member will be a mix of auto and manual lgt. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 With OBXT sized tires our revs will be lower with an STI 6spd. I sort of want a 6spd unsure why though. Mostly want to use stock 6 SPD clutch with some rwd bias. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Ecu works for both. Just flash the MT ROM to it. I went through the 5mt to 6mt swap thread and parts are up to 5k, including auto to manual stuff. Cross member will be a mix of auto and manual lgt. really? interesting. i wonder why there's such a differentiation between them. and why i remember it the opposite. well, if that's the case, it shouldn't be too much worse than any 5mt to 6mt swap. go for it! With OBXT sized tires our revs will be lower with an STI 6spd. I sort of want a 6spd unsure why though. Mostly want to use stock 6 SPD clutch with some rwd bias. yeah, i've always heard the ratio's are better with a specb tranny, and i've got no need for DCCD, and it seems easier with just using the axles and diff that are already with the Specb for a swap. just simpler all around. and yeah, clutch that holds more power and the lower revs in cruise. can't offset the 3k cost though, although i shoulda talked the wife into letting me buy the one in washington that i could have had for 3k total.... * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Put rally armors and some new morrimoto hids in. Might get some legacy roof rails from derp. All thats left in the cosmetic dept is rain visors, k2 gear wing extension and some neat summer rims. All that will need to wait though. Picking up some cheapos for my winter tires next week. I am thinking about trading my avo outback mufflers for a legacy wagon style so I can see tips hang out my ass. Just the tip to see what it feels like. Any reason I shouldnt do this? Since my avo's are rareish what should i trade for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Put rally armors and some new morrimoto hids in. Might get some legacy roof rails from derp. All thats left in the cosmetic dept is rain visors, k2 gear wing extension and some neat summer rims. All that will need to wait though. Picking up some cheapos for my winter tires next week. I am thinking about trading my avo outback mufflers for a legacy wagon style so I can see tips hang out my ass. Just the tip to see what it feels like. Any reason I shouldnt do this? Since my avo's are rareish what should i trade for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I am thinking about trading my avo outback mufflers for a legacy wagon style... Any reason I shouldnt do this? Since my avo's are rareish what should i trade for? I would actually look for an LGT sedan axleback. Since you end up seeing the entire muffler on an Outback it looks much cleaner IMO. Mine looked pretty awesome once I got the hangers cut and re-welded to use the stock exhaust hangers. I've been looking for a set of OBXT AVO muffs ya know... ...so I can see tips hang out my ass. Just the tip to see what it feels like. You know, derp has just the van experience for you! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I would actually look for an LGT sedan axleback. Since you end up seeing the entire muffler on an Outback it looks much cleaner IMO. Mine looked pretty awesome once I got the hangers cut and re-welded to use the stock exhaust hangers. I've been looking for a set of OBXT AVO muffs ya know... You know, derp has just the van experience for you! I'd trade with you if you want. Can I ask why you want the avos over what you have though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I'd trade with you if you want. Can I ask why you want the avos over what you have though? About 70% of my commute is highway... and combined with my not-really-resonated mid-pipe, they're VERY loud above 65mph. I'm an old man when I comes to exhausts, subdued but quality sound is what I want. Plus, the combination of quiet muffs & EWG is the best of both worlds; whisper quiet when cruising, and sets off car alarms at full boost! I'll PM you about that trade though. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJBerk Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 16 weeks and 1 day, and Lucy is finally back in my garage. Of course, that included one trip back to the shop for an alignment (that they said they did), so I wasn't steering 5-8% to the right... and she's filthy, but she's home. Road trip to see my gal at university tomorrow, so I hope all goes well. She'll never be the same (Lucy, not my gal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 About 70% of my commute is highway... and combined with my not-really-resonated mid-pipe, they're VERY loud above 65mph. I'm an old man when I comes to exhausts, subdued but quality sound is what I want. Plus, the combination of quiet muffs & EWG is the best of both worlds; whisper quiet when cruising, and sets off car alarms at full boost! I'll PM you about that trade though. I dont want loud, maybe I should just clamp on some L shaped tip extensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I dont want loud, maybe I should just clamp on some L shaped tip extensions. Well in that case, yes. It's pretty well known that besides a stock setup, the AVO mufflers are about as quiet as they get! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Well in that case, yes. It's pretty well known that besides a stock setup, the AVO mufflers are about as quiet as they get! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Got it. So new tips plus longer hangers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Welp... Its happening. I'll have the 6spd, shifter and r180 diff week after next. Time to start sourcing all the little stuff. It will either be the best thing ever or a good show watching me burn it to the ground. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heffernan Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161029/19f406f8876a8e84e3387902f769e626.jpg Got the lights mounted and wired up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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