Colonel Red Racing 2005 STI Race Car

[BarManBean]

Ya'll have recommendations for fast spool turbos that max out around 370HP/TQ? The only time I'd need that much power is in ICSCC Enduros where I'm not only competing against ST cars but GT1 GT2 and SPO-M-U cars as well in my class. If I have to give up 370 Hp to get a fast spool 320 HP that's ok.

 

 

My new setup will be a JMP custom 16g, lightly PnP'ed, with all supporting bolt ons. I expect to see 320 no problem, with torque being much higher.

 

I think if you go with something around there, that you could have some serious spool and a nice power band. I'll post up a dyno sheet if I end up doing a dyno tune.

 

Can you run e85? If so, the difference between 320 and 370 is probably just a fuel / map change away.

[shralp]

I followed Rallispec's break in procedure on my Street Spec Hybrid Value/Standard (they were back ordered on the 4032 Mahle so upgraded me on the Standard package to the Cossie 4032 plugs for $200) and so far so good with break in and then tuning and 4 days of track flogging. A bit of street driving here and there and a few hours of travel to and from the track days as well. So far so good

[boxkita]

From Rallispec's "about" page:

Also in 2010 the company was asked by Subaru of America to assist with engine and transmission development for the Pheonix Racing SRRT (Subaru Road Racing Team). Pheonix was shifting from the Legacy to the STI in the Continental Challenge Grand-Am road racing series and were starting to suffer engine and transmission reliability problems in the lengthy races. RalliSpec worked with the team to overcome these issues while also helping to develop their differential settings to minimize the negative handling effects of the factory all-wheel-drive system on the track. The partnership continues through to today with RalliSpec's responsibilities now limited primarily to maintaining the transmissions for the team. Pheonix secured their first victory with the STI in 2012 and looks strong for 2013.

 

I know who I'm calling on Monday...

[Sgt.Gator]

From Rallispec's "about" page:

 

 

I know who I'm calling on Monday...

 

When I trashed the R160 in my first race in the Silver Eagle LGT in June 2014 I sent them my Cusco LSD to be inspected. Of course they knew all about it. They did an inspection, said it was good to go, and charged me a very minimal amount. I was impressed because they could have said it needs all new plates and bearings etc and I wouldn't have known. So now they'll be getting my shortblock business because they have integrity.

 

As far as the pistons, I'm guessing the Cosworth would actually be better for longevity in an enduro racing environment than the Omega. I've emailed Rallispec and asked them for a recommendation on the best build for my goals. As you've noted, they should know a thing or two about long races!

Edited June 25, 2016 by Sgt.Gator

[Sgt.Gator]

Any thoughts on compression ratios? I have a choice of 8.2 or 9.2. I'm thinking 9.2 since I want quick spool and don't care to go to high boost levels. (I'm asking Rallispec too).

[boxkita]

8.2

[SBT]

^This. With a properly sized snail and boost threshold ramped-in low, your engine will be happier and less prone to detonation under the extreme heat/stress of the track.

 

9.2 and you'll likely have tuning issues in your mid-to-upper register. Best to confirm that with your engine builder/tuner for your specific applications.

[fredrik94087]

^^^ pretty much what my tuner told me about going from my factory 10.6 to an IAG 10.0 if I decide to do so.

[boxkita]

Start small, finish often, smile more. And hurry about it. I want you to get a few races in on that rallispec block before I drop cash on one. :-)

[Sgt.Gator]

The dismantling begins. This time I'm marking every single bolt, hose, clamp, and electrical connector.

[GTEASER]

Wise man. Should go back together about 0.0457% faster when reassembly begins.

[Sgt.Gator]

Wise man. Should go back together about 0.0457% faster when reassembly begins.

 

LOL, you won't believe how much faster and easier it makes it. And less likely to do something REALLY stupid. ANd at the race track it's absolutely worth it.

[boxkita]

Also ensure that the fuel pump gives enough - and that the fuel filter don't constrain the flow.

 

Any time I have been running an engine for the first time since it was out of the vehicle I'm so stressed I almost crawl on the walls.

 

was at the bigNW meet this past weekend. Spent part of my time drooling over this toy - http://www.radiumauto.com/FCST-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank-P537.aspx

 

Many of the pro3 cars run a surge tank and really like the results.

[boxkita]

The dismantling begins. This time I'm marking every single bolt, hose, clamp, and electrical connector.

 

After I saw that rack, I've been looking for a house with a 13ft garage ceiling. I thought I was doing good, cause I can spin the car 90 degrees to get more working room.

[boxkita]

LOL, you won't believe how much faster and easier it makes it. And less likely to do something REALLY stupid. ANd at the race track it's absolutely worth it.

 

The wagon looks like a 2 year old went crazy with a box of markers. Putting it back together is like putting puzzle together except every piece only goes in one place.

[Sgt.Gator]

was at the bigNW meet this past weekend. Spent part of my time drooling over this toy - http://www.radiumauto.com/FCST-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank-P537.aspx

 

Many of the pro3 cars run a surge tank and really like the results.

 

You know they are local Oregon guys. Radium kit is like the crown jewel of gear.

 

Legacy GT folks should be drooling over this one: http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pump-Hanger-Subaru-P706.aspx

Unfortunately it doesn't fit the 2005 STI tank. They have one in R&D but it's not ready yet. I volunteered to be their Beta tester!

 

http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pump-Hanger-Subaru-P706.aspx

 

http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/ProductImages/20-0191_3.jpg

 

http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/ProductImages/subaru-hanger_9.jpg

 

I have a TurboXS surge tank with twin external pump brackets that came with the STI.The previous owner had already put Holley Hydramats in both sides of the oem saddle tank with a Holley transfer pump from the left to the right but it's not enough. The surge tank should solve that issue. I have spec'd a external pump for it.

[Sgt.Gator]

I've been working with Dave at Rallispec for an engine platform that meets the 25 Hour Endurance goal with about 310 HP and lots of TQ.

Here's some of the communications:

 

"We did a bunch of work with Subaru's Road Racing Team before Subaru pulled the plug on them. They had a number of issues relating to head gasket sealing and cylinder wall reliability and their events were only a few hours in length. So even though your power levels are relatively low....the operating environment might call for something that is more robustly built so that the upper cylinder wall and deck surface are stable enough for the engine to survive the length of the event without suffering problems.

 

In terms of the power requirements....what you are describing is exactly the same type of situation we deal with when building rally engines with turbo restrictors. There are a number of things to take into consideration:

 

1. Turbo size and design. Generally speaking the most advanced turbo technology will yield higher boost at lower rpm. Things such as twin-scroll technology, lightweight materials, ceramic ball bearing designs. I am not sure what the regulations allow. But I would say something like a Borg Warner EFR series twin-scroll turbo...perhaps the EFR6758.

 

2. High compression will raise torque. You want to run the highest compression ratio that your fuel and tuning setup will safely allow.

 

3. Longer stroke length will gain torque across the board although limit max rpm and increase wear rates."

 

They had a custom shortblock already built for a rally racer but the car is nowhere near finished so they offered it to me and I've accepted.

 

The Specs:

 

83mm stroke length short block (2.7L) with 99.75 Cosworth high compression pistons (works out to be around 9.6:1 with STI heads), Manley billet crank, closed deck block, King XPG bearings, 1/4 gram balance, and custom length RalliSpec 300M rods. ARP 1/2in head studs.

RPM max recommended 7,500.

 

It should ship right away !

 

BTW they've been offering a closed deck block option for a few months but it's not on their website yet. It will be mid range priced between the oem semi closed deck blocks and their Darton sleeved blocks.

[Sgt.Gator]

I got far enough into the dismantle to find some of the problems and speculate what may have happened.

 

1) First clue was when removing the radiator, hoses was this white goo on the tip of my finger was coating everything inside the cooling system. It was in the radiator, the hoses, the block, the coolant lines to the turbo, everywhere.

 

2) The turbo was frozen solid. The wheel and shaft wouldn't budge in the slightest.

 

3) The block had a rather large hole in the top of it next to the knock sensor.

 

4) Nurse, I need another clamp for this artery now!

 

My speculative conclusion:

 

The goo looked like it had been there building for a long time, probably from the moment the rebuilt engine was started. There's no way a builder wouldn't have seen this stuff when rebuilding the first engine so I'm sure it's new, but it's not from the engine blowing up, it has been happening much longer than that. It feels like super fine ground aluminum powder.

 

When the first engine was rebuilt the turbo was not rebuilt or replaced. I think we have the classic Subaru problem of engine blows>damaging turbo> damaged turbo eventually fails and destroys new engine.

 

I suspect it started failing in the turbo cooling system sending aluminum powder throughout the engine cooling system. Then the failing turbo sends the bits of aluminum thru the turbo oiling system into the engine and boom.

 

I'll eventually send this VF-39 to our turbo guru JMP for a rebuild and let him do the final diagnosis on the insides of it.

 

I won't be rebuilding this block core.

[ehsnils]

To me that goo looks like you did end up with water in the oil or something similar.

[fredrik94087]

^^^ my first thoughts, but water and oil looks like a light colored chocolate milkshake. It is not white.

 

Thanks for sharing. Sorry for your troubles, but glad you found the issue. This leads me to believe when my motor blows, I will need a new oil cooler, AOS, and turbo just to be safe (I have an oil cooler and AOS on the car). And, I may just replace the entire dipstick assembly for good measure.

 

Maybe that is why my tuner replied to the question, "When should I get a built block?" with the answer, "Now...before it blows."

Edited June 30, 2016 by fredrik94087

[SBT]

Blocked block is blocked.

 

That looks like block material, possibly cam journal debris

[Sgt.Gator]

Definitely not oil in the water. I've seen that several times in my life.....

 

The previous owner told me last night that he and his builder saw the white goo in the first engine and couldn't figure out what it was. When this engine was rebuilt they used a new radiator and flushed the system. They didn't see the goo in the coolant and thought it was ok.

 

Interestingly the coolant looks fine! But if you look closely around the radiator cap (not the top reservoir, the radiator) you can see it on the inside of the cap and down in the radiator.

 

Since the radiator, water pump, and shortblock were replaced the only sources possible are the turbo, heater core, and new shortblock. I'm betting on the turbo.

 

It looks like Aluminum Oxide to me, which is of course very abrasive, used in abrasives.. I'm thinking I can send it to Blackstone Labs to find out for sure what it is. Maybe they should add coolant analysis to the oil analysis.

 

 

"Aluminium oxide is a chemical compound of aluminium and oxygen with the chemical formula Al2O3. It is the most commonly occurring of several aluminium oxides, and specifically identified as aluminium(III) oxide. It is commonly called alumina, and may also be called aloxide, aloxite, or alundum depending on particular forms or applications. Al2O3 is significant in its use to produce aluminium metal, as an abrasive owing to its hardness, and as a refractory material owing to its high melting point.[6]

 

Aluminium oxide is insoluble in water. (Explains why the coolant looks fine, but the goo is stuck to the walls). In its most commonly occurring crystalline form, called corundum or α-aluminium oxide, its hardness makes it suitable for use as an abrasive and as a component in cutting tools.[6]

 

Aluminium oxide is responsible for the resistance of metallic aluminium to weathering. Metallic aluminium is very reactive with atmospheric oxygen, and a thin passivation layer of aluminium oxide (4 nm thickness) forms on any exposed aluminium surface.[7] This layer protects the metal from further oxidation.

 

It sounds reasonable that if the turbo was grinding away at it's aluminum parts the powder would react in the water/coolant and form AlumOxide, then destroy any bearings, and anything it flowed past in the aluminum block. .

Edited June 30, 2016 by Sgt.Gator

[ehsnils]

As long as the alu oxide is in the coolant it shouldn't be a problem, it's when it comes into the oil that you will have a problem.

 

The only moving parts that the coolant comes into contact with (at least should come into contact with) is the water pump and the heater core valve. It shall never come into direct contact with the turbo shaft and bearings, just cool the housing.

 

http://www.examiner.com/images/blog/EXID26210/images/WATERCOOLED.jpg

 

But if you discover it in the oil then I'd start to worry about if you have something strange going on.

 

Then it's of course a good idea to flush the cooling system now and then - and properly burp it when refilling. Incorrect coolant type may not work well with aluminum. And I would be suspicious of "wetters" that you add to the coolant too.

[Sgt.Gator]

I changed the oil just before heading to the track, there was no water in the oil. I also filter the used oil thru a 60 micron sieve and there were no metal bits large enough to be caught in it.

The inside of the block and heads should be interesting.

[ehsnils]

Two "Stupid" questions of things to check on the dead engine:

 

• Banjo bolt filter.
  
• Oil pickup tube.
  

(OK, I may have missed that you have checked them)