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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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no lol!

 

Good news though, got the 2 bad valves seated, no more leaks on that cylinder, now for the other 2 smaller leaking vales in the other cylinder.

 

To put these valve oil seals on is there some kind of simple trick like use a socket and knock it down or just use your hands?

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no lol!

 

 

 

Good news though, got the 2 bad valves seated, no more leaks on that cylinder, now for the other 2 smaller leaking vales in the other cylinder.

 

 

 

To put these valve oil seals on is there some kind of simple trick like use a socket and knock it down or just use your hands?

Use 10mm deep socket.
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Ughhh.... all my valve clearances are to tight, I gotta play with buckets now.

 

Is there a proper way to adjust these buckets?

 

If this side is that tight then I gotta inspect the other side when I'm done.

 

I wonder if thats the cause of all this carbon build up and my random misfire codes?

Edited by Tehnation
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I think the cam lobes might just be bigger and need smaller buckets, cause I could understand all the intake buckets, all the exhaust buckets or maybe a couple random ones, but all of them? And they are all about the same clearance on the intake and exhaust side just all tight.

 

This is gonna suck and be costly, I gotta buy 16 buckets it looks like....

 

Can you even get a micrometer on these buckets?

 

We aren't supposed to shave the buckets right, but buy the right size according to that list of bucket sizes in the fsm?

Edited by Tehnation
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Yes.

You need to check after the heads are on the SB for final measurement.

Measure and buy new buckets.

They were $20 bucks a piece last time I bought several.

Still have what was pulled during last rebuild but need to get the heads on my project and see if I need any of them.

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hmm maybe I don't need to measure the bucket. I think what I have to do is measure the exact clearance, get that number, then look at the part/bucket number (I think most of mine are still visible) find that number on that list and then do math to figure out what I need... ?? That make sense?

 

I need a better feeler gauge. Do they make anything better than a 32 blade feeler gauge?

 

My gauge has Metric sizes (mm): 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.08, 0.10, 0.13, 0.15, 0.18, 0.20, 0.23, 0.25, 0.25, 0.28, 0.30, 0.33, 0.35, 0.38, 0.40, 0.43, 0.45, 0.48, 0.50, 0.53, 0.55, 0.58, 0.60, 0.63, 0.65, 0.70, 0.75, 0.80, 0.88

 

Intake is .14mm-.24mm ideal is .2mm

Exhaust is .3mm-.4mm ideal is .35mm

Edited by Tehnation
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I just took out a bucket and saw a number inside and assumed its the part number its actually the size of the bucket, cause I got my mic on it and measured it and the numbers were the same. I took out a 4.83 mm, going to have to look at all of the bucket sizes and if I feel like being super, I'll measure them as well, to confirm..... I probably wont.

 

1224261989_valveclearancebucketsizes.thumb.png.327697c2f66ccf1efdad8144fa090c4f.png

 

Might not have so much room if i am already at 4.83 for one... lets pray!

Edited by Tehnation
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Yes all of them have a different size.

Reason I went with all new valves is the machine shops ground the tops for clearance. I say plural as there were two involved in my last rebuild. Nightmare.

Mic is the right way to check what current bucket is in there regardless of the writing...

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yea, i wanted to skip the mic part but my ocd kicked in.... digging through recyclables for old egg cartons to hold my buckets. Going to inspect the other head tomorrow, if its the same I am going to redo those buckets as well.
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yea, i wanted to skip the mic part but my ocd kicked in.... digging through recyclables for old egg cartons to hold my buckets. Going to inspect the other head tomorrow, if its the same I am going to redo those buckets as well.

 

I measure the valve clearance. Then I measured all the actual buckets with a micrometer and wrote it down with the correct positions. (ignore the number inside because you probably have some where on them) Then made a spreadsheet in order to figure out where to move certain buckets in order to account for the valves being slightly higher (after lapping). Two or three of them could be moved to different positions without making any changes to their size. I wanted to remove as little as possible from each one, so I put them in order of smallest to biggest. I hope that makes sense. I still have the spreadsheets and everything on how I did it if you want to PM.

 

(Reading + Current Bucket Size) - Desired Gap = Size of New Bucket.

 

For Example:

 

Desired Gap = 0.22

Reading = .32

Current Bucket = 4.92

New Bucket = 5.02

 

Then you grab a bucket from another position (hopefully as close to 5.02 as possible so you don't have to grind much off) and make it the desired size. The spreadsheet helped put them in order of smallest to largest in relation to desired gap size. I hope this makes sense.

 

Sorry if you already totally understand this stuff. lol. I need 10 posts to sell mine. :lol:

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How do I use these said spreadsheets? Anyone got one with formulas in it? cleano5, just share it with the group!!

 

This is what I got so far, number in center is the number on the back of the bucket, its good to note it, cause now I know where each one started in case they get mixed up. The number on the bottom is the gap with feeler gauge.... my gauge is missing a lot of the sizes so its not very accurate, I need a feeler that goes from like .10mm-.4mm in .1mm intervals, anyone hear of such a thing, god damn sae? All I have to do now is mic the buckets to verify they are same as the numbers, cause my buckets look great and uncut!

 

20220602_210712.thumb.jpg.8b74b679db65fdecb75d98b2a107db64.jpg

20220602_211206.thumb.jpg.2f935216d6f22e25dcc2fa0b7a367832.jpg

 

Seems like intake needs to go to exhaust and vice versa.

Edited by Tehnation
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Thank god I bought a digital mic, otherwise converting from inches to mm would be a nightmare.... my regular mic set is all inches.

 

So 5 out of 8 were good, and 3 out of 8 were slightly worn.

 

20220602_215713.thumb.jpg.4f8e340259eb0192e1c2e79ffb2a8939.jpg

 

Going to pull driver side cams tomorrow.

Edited by Tehnation
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Did a second round, the smaller number with 3 decimal places is the latest reading. That last decimal is probably accurate +- .005 or around there.

 

Will probably do another 2 rounds of measurements to be sure. Then just average out the readings.

 

20220602_221209.thumb.jpg.00c2ea1fa895642201b5541c76240761.jpg

 

But from what it looks like, it seems my buckets are just mixed up.... from just eyeballing I feel I can make it work by bringing all the 4.9's to the intake and the 4.8 and 4.7 to the exhaust?? Wheres my laptop....

Edited by Tehnation
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No worries! Already made one, here are results!

 

I used the formula someone posted several posts back.

 

(Reading + Current Bucket Size) - Desired Gap = Size of New Bucket.

 

buckets.thumb.png.f337bc285bcd99b6c9b5ecc2863c5d82.png

 

I think I can swap around to get at least half the buckets in the right range. I'm hoping the driver side is in spec, but I doubt it so I may have more buckets to swap after I inspect that head.

Edited by Tehnation
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I'd offer some of mine, if needed/fit, but have to catch up. Parts are still rolling in for my rebuild and I'm waiting so no stalling once it begins.

Heads are scheduled to go on next weekend.

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Flatiron has them for 24.29, so depending on how many I need I may just order new ones. I figure 10 @ $243 isn't bad, hopefully I don't need that many.

 

I pulled the valve cover off the driver side and did a quick clearance check and it looks like they are all tight as well so those cams need to come out.

 

So I am going to order a new exhaust cam gear to replace the one that broke off the camshaft pin, and another set of cam seals. Will probably figure out my buckets and order it all at once.

 

I have another head gasket cause I ordered a pair, so I may pull the driver head as well to check the valves and clean them if they are dirty. If I am pulling the cams.... then might as well pull the head at that point.

Edited by Tehnation
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