Max Capacity Posted August 14, 2022 Share Posted August 14, 2022 I'm sure you've been to Cobb's site and checked/asked there ? Any sticky at the top of the Tuning Forum here ? I don't run my cars with the AP plugged in. My Tune is great, if there's an issue the CEL will pop, or I'll feel the car is not right driving it. Maybe I've been lucky all these years without keeping it plugged in. 1 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted August 14, 2022 Share Posted August 14, 2022 ^^^^ I am with Max....I feel I may go crazy if I watch that AP and monitor things. He put it well...if there's an issue I will get a light or feel it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 You should look for 'FKC' (feedback knock correction) or 'FLKC' (fine learned knock correction). At least, that's how the parameters are called in BtSsm or romraider. The former refers to 'on the fly' knock correction, meaning the ECU just heard knock and pulled timing. The latter refers to the ECU having 'learned' to pull a certain amount of timing. You can google these terms for more additional info. Me, I am the opposite; I have the BtSsm app running at all time on my cars. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 3 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said: Me, I am the opposite; I have the BtSsm app running at all time on my cars. Same here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share Posted December 27, 2022 So I had a detour with the passenger exhaust camshaft. The cam journals on the head are tight causing all sorts of issues, i'm on camshaft number 3 atm. Hopefully I can get the motor put together and in the car by the weekend. Its been so damn cold out, I can't work in my garage without my hands starting to freeze..... ordered a little space heater to get the job done as quick as possible. My detour thread 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share Posted December 27, 2022 Anyone recall the brand and or part number for a replacement throw out bearing that fits the TSK kit? I remember reading someone found that one from a toyota or some car would work and it was like a 20 dollar item. My car has been sitting in the elements, so I wouldn't mind changing the tob so I don't have a a problem later, just don't want to buy an entire kit for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted December 27, 2022 Share Posted December 27, 2022 I know sixstarbernie has the TSK bearing: https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23188116-genuine-pdm-tranquil-tsk2-throw-out-bearing-subaru-wrx-forester-impreza-legacy-turbo.html But I'm not sure about a generic replacement, I want to say I vaguely remember reading a similar post to what you are describing, but I haven't found it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 On 8/24/2020 at 11:29 PM, rhino6303 said: xt2005bonbon said: Yeah, rebleed again. You know that TSK3 kit, it's nice but I don't think the bearing is that high quality actually. I had an issue with my kit, which could have been user error. Essentially, the sleeve came loose on mine and was moving around with the TOB. That was the cause of my weird engagement point which happened all of the sudden. Anyway, yeah, rebleed and check. If no fix, then not too sure. In my research I've found references that a throwout bearing from an 86-99 Celica is the same size as the tsk3 bearing. You can get an SKF bearing that should be pretty good quality. SKF N4087 is a part number that should work. 5 hours ago, Tehnation said: Anyone recall the brand and or part number for a replacement throw out bearing that fits the TSK kit? I remember reading someone found that one from a toyota or some car would work and it was like a 20 dollar item. My car has been sitting in the elements, so I wouldn't mind changing the tob so I don't have a a problem later, just don't want to buy an entire kit for one. I quoted my post from your "clutch sticking" thread from 2020. I've never purchased one but it should work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 28, 2022 Author Share Posted December 28, 2022 I'm going to compare more part numbers on rockauto when I get time, 86 celica dohc https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1986,celica,2.0l+l4+dohc,1273946,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968 86 celica sohc gt model only has nsk 4087 listed https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1986,celica,2.0l+l4+sohc,1389438,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968 Then for a 93 celica 2.0 turbo https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1993,celica,2.0l+l4+turbocharged,1274262,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968 93 celica 2.2 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1993,celica,2.2l+l4,1274251,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968 98 celica 2.2 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1998,celica,2.2l+l4,1317503,transmission-manual,clutch+release+bearing,1968 There are a bunch for the celica, but there are a bunch that look the part. Going to look into it some more. I think the thickness and tranny might be a big factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 Here is a link with plenty of cross reference part numbers. https://www.finditparts.com/products/4290072/federal-mogul-national-seals-614147?s_s=N4087&sctx=eyJzIjoiTjQwODciLCJzb3VyY2UiOiJzZWFyY2hwYWdlIiwicHJvZHVjdF9pZCI6IjQyOTAwNzIiLCJyZXN1bHRfY291bnQiOjExLCJyZXN1bHRfaWR4Ijo1fQ==&ga_list=Search Results V3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 30, 2022 Author Share Posted December 30, 2022 So motors put back together and on the hoist ready to go back in. So it was weighing on my mind that when the camshaft snapped something may have happened. So I pulled the coil and spark plug and stuck a rod with electric tape on the end inside to push against the piston when it was tdc to make sure the rod bearings didn't get hurt, I didn't inspect with the oil pan off cause I didn't see anything on windage tray so I just moved on. Then I figured I should do a leakdown on cylinder 3 as well.... but I already did the timing etc. Which leads to my question, instead of undoing things, how do you know when the valves are supposed to be closed for a cylinder when you want to do a leakdown test? Is it when those 2 double lines on cam gears line up or something else? I was just going to keep spinning the crank until air stopped leaking but if there is another way. Note to self, do leak down before timing..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 30, 2022 Author Share Posted December 30, 2022 Leakdown test was good! Moving on! I really need to get this car tuned........ whats this year 4 or 5? Time really flies as you get older..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 31, 2022 Author Share Posted December 31, 2022 And done! Back on the road before the New Year! Happy New Years Everyone! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 1, 2023 Share Posted January 1, 2023 Glad to hear, she's running. Happy New Year. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 I'm like where is my oil going.... then I see my oil pan is spewing oil out..... I finally decide to use sealant this time and it definitely sprung a leak. omg, i don't want to pull this fckin motor again, but I can't get the oil pan off without removing my headers and these headers are an absolute pita..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 How do you normally get the pan off with the motor in the car? I believe all you need to do is raise the motor a little, or can you without raising the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 stock headers? I recall removing the oil pan with headers in place. I did not even raise the engine I think but it was a pain yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 aftermarket headers, i have the maperformance 4-1 el version 1 headers. It curves right over that low spot on the oil pan making it impossible to remove the pan without removing the headers, and the inside nuts that bolt the headers are in such an obscure spot so its a task trying to get to the bolt even when the motor is on a stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 I'm thinking my gas soaked oil is eating away at that sealant.... going back to a gasket this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Or you over torqued the oil pan bolts? I recall the torque for these bolts is really small. Very easy to over torque these. When I rebuilt my engine, I was really skeptical of the torque specs. I still followed them and still no leaks after 45k. I should not say that now though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 I used a screwdriver to screw them in to avoid that. Is over torquing the bolts a common cause of oil pan leaks? I just thought over torquing led to the bolts snapping?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Well, I mean over torquing to the point that the sealant won't be able to seal properly. The bolt itself might just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 Those back screws are so hidden, I don't see how you can get them out without jacking the motor up. I am trying to fix it now, and I raised the motor like an inch already and those bolts are still a pita to get to. Gonna have to use a swivel while blind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 So I am remembering from a long time ago that following the fsm sealing procedure was bad and you should smear it all around the oil pan including around all the holes..... i followed the stupid fsm and laid the sealant in the spots it showed..... you can see the big spaces around the holes.... gaskets ftw! Is there some kind of magic trick to get this sealant off? God I hate glue.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 Well, first of all you were able to remove the pan after all! Now, I am not sure because I did follow the FSM and mine is not leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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