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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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Lol. Man do I miss the tanks button.

 

I’ve been driving my car a lot lately. I’ve fallen in love again after the new tires, spec b aluminum stuff, and sti rack. It’s great.

 

Oops - thought I was in the WDYDTY4GT thread.

Edited by Code
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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fixed the clutch now my key fob don't work. Tried changing the battery.

 

How do we replace these can we do it ourselves or do we need to go to stealership?

 

Do they provide the new fob or can we bring our own?

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fixed the clutch now my key fob don't work. Tried changing the battery.

 

How do we replace these can we do it ourselves or do we need to go to stealership?

 

Do they provide the new fob or can we bring our own?

You can reprogram the fob easily without gping to the dealership. There's a specific order of key on, off, unlocks, etc. Google probably has the exact sequence.
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good to know!

 

I found the problem luckily! I 1st tried a new battery and nothing, so I pulled it completely apart, cleaned it out and then bent the contacts from the battery side a bit. I think its just old and the metal tabs weren't making good enough contact anymore, after bending them the fob started working better than it ever has in years if not perfectly and the way it was meant to work, I was always jamming on it etc to get it to work.

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yep!

 

Problem was ........ nothing! The lesson here, don't get fancy keep it simple, phone a friend when bleeding clutches. The garbage duralast slave I bought at autozone turned out to be the problem, I went back to the original one and it worked like a charm.

Edited by Tehnation
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yep!

 

Problem was ........ nothing! The lesson here, don't get fancy keep it simple, phone a friend when bleeding clutches. The garbage duralast slave I bought at autozone turned out to be the problem, I went back to the original one and it worked like a charm.

 

Add that one to your list of OEM only.

If you end up needing a slave later, this should be a good option

https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179102-subaru-oem-clutch-slave-cylinder-upgrade-seals-forester-outback-impreza-legacy-1998-up.html?ref=category:1171181

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At this point its like some type of trauma.... i don't even want to drive it cause bad things happen and i end up stranded on the side of the road... Time to get back on this horse, oh boy! Already been towed 3 or 4 times this year... it gets old real quick.
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It seems like the motor is doing much better, better throttle response and my vacuum at idle increased from -6.x psi to -7.x psi. Overall the engine just seems healthier than before, so far no ghost misfires or cels. I think pulling the heads and cleaning out all that gunk and carbon buildup on the valves, valve seats and pistons made all the valves seal properly. Also adjusting the buckets to get them all within oem spec probably did something as well. It seems too good to be true at this point. Edited by Tehnation
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Add that one to your list of OEM only.

If you end up needing a slave later, this should be a good option

https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179102-subaru-oem-clutch-slave-cylinder-upgrade-seals-forester-outback-impreza-legacy-1998-up.html?ref=category:1171181

 

Hmm, that looks like it is for the NA engines, doesn't say anything about turbo subarus!

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Hmm, that looks like it is for the NA engines, doesn't say anything about turbo subarus!

 

I talked to him on the phone about it a while ago, it's the one I'm using.

If I remember right, it's slightly larger than our stock one and improves the petal feel.

It absolutely works on push transmissions, both the 5mt and split case 6mt.

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So i'm driving home from work, a little spirited driving to say the least, and the car goes dead...... my heart drops, i'm like another tow wtf, god hates me! I pop the hood, and after like 5 minutes of wtf, i realize the intercooler hose came off.... sigh, put it back on tighten it with my pocket knife and got her home. Crisis averted! 

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On 7/9/2022 at 11:04 PM, Tehnation said:

It seems like the motor is doing much better, better throttle response and my vacuum at idle increased from -6.x psi to -7.x psi. Overall the engine just seems healthier than before, so far no ghost misfires or cels. I think pulling the heads and cleaning out all that gunk and carbon buildup on the valves, valve seats and pistons made all the valves seal properly. Also adjusting the buckets to get them all within oem spec probably did something as well. It seems too good to be true at this point.

These vac values had me worried until I remembered you're running aftermarket cams.

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tbh, if the dyno tune can't do anything about this horrible gas mileage I may need to change things up a bit lol. Cause 11.4 mpg is not cool at all. I'm hoping they can get me another 50% or more, I could live with low gas mileage but not this, especially with gas prices being close to 6 dollars a gallon for 93 octane. 

But it seems to be driving completely different this time around, and my gas gauge isn't dropping as fast as before. So hopefully the mpg goes up. I'm wondering what made all these changes. If that cam gear was slightly off  because of it being loose, i'm wondering what effects that would have had? 

Do you get more or less mpg with E85??

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EFI Logics in Bethel, CT. https://efilogics.com/  The Subacabra people. 

I know exactly where they are, they are on the I-87 LOL, just realized this video was taken like 5-10 minutes from my house.

TGV deletes? I have them, I did a tgv delete which also switched it to topfeed. Does the tgv delete give you worse or better mileage?  

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I'm just checking because of the cobb changes in allowable tuning. You might look into it.

4 hours ago, Tehnation said:

EFI Logics in Bethel, CT. https://efilogics.com/  The Subacabra people. 

I know exactly where they are, they are on the I-87 LOL, just realized this video was taken like 5-10 minutes from my house.

TGV deletes? I have them, I did a tgv delete which also switched it to topfeed. Does the tgv delete give you worse or better mileage?  

It doesn't really change mileage but I'm checking because of the cobb changes in allowable tuning. You might look into it. TGVs are a no-no now.

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a/f is at about 14.5 or so at idle, while driving.... not to sure about cruising or otherwise, its all over the place, I will take a log next time. But I know the car is running super rich, I can smell the gas in my oil, so there should be a lot of room for improvement. I think the tuner did that cause they never seen the car  in person and it was a base tune on a fresh motor with uncommon cams/setup. They even made me get an accessport because of the cams, something about how they couldn't do it with open source.

From my experience running lean is a lot worse than running rich cause the extra heat, so can't really complain. Plus they were doing me the favor of even giving me a base etune when they don't do etuning. They tune everything in house, and were working with me to actually get it to the dyno, so the tune is far from perfect. It was more so something to just get it broken in and to the shop without me blowing it up in between.   

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Just saying, maybe send a log off to my Tuner, tuningalliance@gmail.com  I'm sure Mike can get you running well and good MPG.

You can also find him from his Thread in the Vendor's Forum below. 

 

Other members that have had Mike retune their cars, after EFI and Bren, were happy with Mike's tune. 

Did EFI take your car out for a street tune after the dyno ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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