Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 (edited) So heres the breakdown looks like 2 of the valves hit each other and did some damage, the B means big leak and S is small leak, so the 2 B's line up. The S's only leaked when I had the air gun right up against the valve basically, spraying from outside didn't do anything, so they took some light damage possibly and are sorta fine depending on your standards. I think at worst I will need 4 new valves, I am thinking 2, hopefully none! egg carton ftw! Once I pull these 4 valves I will see if they are straight, and take it from there. Edited May 26, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 (edited) Anyone know how to get these valve seals off?? The 30 dollar tool seems to work fine, sprayed a lil wd40 on the bolt and it works like a charm. I also hand tighten the cam bolts. I'm addressing the two big leaking valves in cylinder 3 that are across from each other first. Edited May 26, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 (edited) Valves are straight and the valve seats look good for cylinder 3. I can see where the valve was damaged and made an uneven mating surface. Edited May 26, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 Any information on valve seals? Can I just keep the ones I have in there? I am going to lap the valve so I will be spinning it so I was assuming it wouldn't like that but it seems like I might be able to just lap them and move on without changing them. Cause I don't know how you get it out when its pressed on in that deep pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 Any information on valve seals? Can I just keep the ones I have in there? I am going to lap the valve so I will be spinning it so I was assuming it wouldn't like that but it seems like I might be able to just lap them and move on without changing them. Cause I don't know how you get it out when its pressed on in that deep pocket.They just pull off. If you can't get them by hand, use a small pair of pliers and twist back and forth. It shouldn't take that much force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 (edited) My lapping tool does not like the intake valves..... any ideas? Won't suction at all. Exhaust worked fine. Using this guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GBJAOG Going to try and get a drill on the stem end and spin it that way. Edited May 26, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 (edited) ugh, these heads are a pita, can't get my drill on there cause the chuck is to big, and my dremmel tool is to small.... any ideas?? Ordered https://www.amazon.com/AIYUN-Shank-Keyless-Drill-Chuck/dp/B086JK6VDL/ Hopefully I can get that bigger one in the hole Edited May 26, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 ugh, these heads are a pita, can't get my drill on there cause the chuck is to big, and my dremmel tool is to small.... any ideas?? Ordered https://www.amazon.com/AIYUN-Shank-Keyless-Drill-Chuck/dp/B086JK6VDL/ Hopefully I can get that bigger one in the holePut a small hose over the valve stem before putting it in the drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 They just pull off. If you can't get them by hand, use a small pair of pliers and twist back and forth. It shouldn't take that much force. Mine are pressed on there pretty good, it seems its going to take some hella force.... can I just leave these alone lol???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 Mine are pressed on there pretty good, it seems its going to take some hella force.... can I just leave these alone lol????Not in valves you lap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 You can try a seal puller on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 (edited) Not in valves you lap. Got em off, had to use some man strength, I think i was to focused on not damaging them but they are getting tossed in the garbage anyway so whatever. Edited May 26, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 27, 2022 Author Share Posted May 27, 2022 With the bit I can spin it by hand or use a drill. Going to lap the valves tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 27, 2022 Author Share Posted May 27, 2022 All my goodies are here! The GSC valve seals seem to be same size for both intake and exhaust, I couldn't tell the difference between oem other than color. Also got some other compound incase the permatex stuff doesn't do a good. job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 28, 2022 Author Share Posted May 28, 2022 (edited) I remember facing this dilemma with valves: if you follow the exact part number for our MY, the valves (intake or exhaust) are expensive (most likely because sodium filled). I believe in later years, they stopped doing that. See here vs. here. I believe when you see the stamping ID1 (for intake I think) or ED3 (for exhaust), these are sodium filled. The picture of the cheaper valve has ID1 stamped on it in the picture?! I remember when I had my heads rebuilt a year or 2 back that he had changed some valves, and all of them are ID1 for intake and ED3 for exhaust, so I think the same stamp is on both valves you linked. I'm gonna get a few new valves and see if they can seal better, not having any luck with one of the valves. Edited May 28, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 I remember facing this dilemma with valves: if you follow the exact part number for our MY, the valves (intake or exhaust) are expensive (most likely because sodium filled). I believe in later years, they stopped doing that. See here vs. here. I believe when you see the stamping ID1 (for intake I think) or ED3 (for exhaust), these are sodium filled. Do you have the part number for the cheaper exhaust valve? I used that link and the exhaust is 60 something while the intake is 15! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 Says https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-exhaust-valve-13202aa660 Says this doesn't fit the 05 lgt??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 (edited) If you type in the info for a 2009 GT the valve fits. I sent you a PM a few days ago. Ask them, they would know. They are experts with these heads. You could contact Benny at https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-online-subaru-parts-vendors-list-42243p5.html see post 189 or PM m sprank.. Edited May 30, 2022 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 The later years do fit. They're just not as 'fancy' as what we had for our MY. cheaper intake: https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-intake-valve-13201aa371 cheaper exhaust: https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-exhaust-valve-13202aa660 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 (edited) The main issue I am having is the intake valve having all this carbon, or something is worn off. The surface is uneven so the lapping tool isn't sticking. I got the exhaust valve to seal. But using the drill and tube, the bit, is no bueno. May just get a new intake valve for a better head surface. Is the black stuff carbon or just my valve slowly deteriorating, like some coating that is coming off? If its carbon I want to dump it in chemicals.... if its my valve deteriorating I want a new one. Edited May 31, 2022 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Its carbon buildup, I let them soak in some chem dip for a bit and some of it started to come off. going to let it sit for a day or so, that should clean up the surface to make it easier to lap.... all my intake valves are like that lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Looking at that carbon build up... I wonder if you're running a bit rich ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 And that is only 1000 miles in? That's some serious carbon if so. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Yea it is! I got a bunch off, so now I can get the lapping tool on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Were your valves nice and shiny before your 1K break-in period? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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