Tehnation Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 (edited) Got my stuff back. Cylinder walls are still good, don't need new pistons, hone kept it within range. Heads are 100% good to go. Step 1 - got me some 30w oil to stretch the rod bolts. For this you need some kind of vise clamp (I'm using a vise with a universal rod vise) and a rod bolt stretch gauge. The 30w oil is so you can submerge the bolts before you do anything, that is very important. All the bolts need to be dropped in 30w oil! Rods need to be torqued to 60ftlb at final assembly and have a range of 55-65 for the stretch. So basically measure the bolt with the meter to zero it. Then start torquing until it stretches to the set range but never go more than 65 ftlbs, for me stretch values are .0058"-.0062". Gotta do this 8 times...... blah Instructions from Manley for the 15024-4 Rods. The bolt part number is 42350 - 3/8” ARP 2000 http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/rod-hbeam.pdf Oh yea you will need a Torque Wrench and a 7/16" 12 point socket! Maybe an extension as well. Edited August 6, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 6, 2021 Share Posted August 6, 2021 For second there, I thought you were planning to stretch and unload each bolt 8 times I didn't have a rod bolt gage handy and ended up measuring stretch with a mic and a 1" calibration pin. What a pain in the ass that was, I bet you'll have a much easier time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900015 52 bucks! Worth every penny! 8 times for every bolt, i would throw it all in the garbage at that point lol. 4 rods 2 bolts per rod = 8 times for anyone else that may get confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 If anyone is not familiar I suggest getting a second set of bolts just in case you mess up or overstretch or overtorque https://www.jegs.com/i/Manley/660/42350-4/10002/-1 60 bucks for a new set of bolts. So be slow and patient or be prepared for rod failure or buying new bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 6, 2021 Author Share Posted August 6, 2021 Zero the gauge with the bolt, I set the black marks at .005 and .006, stretch is in between .0058 and .0062 so the closer to the right or further black marker the closer to .006. It moves with the dial so its always .006 from whatever you set zero to. Get a cup or something so you can drop your bolts into it before you start torquing and stretching. I use a microfiber rag to make sure you don't damage the rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 I'm more around 80 ftlbs to get my stretch values, either my wrench is shit, which is a possibility, its cheap. Or assumed the values were max tq not recommended tq..... or both Either way same difference. This is a workout! I need to bolt this vice down for the force I'm putting out. Would make it a lot easier! A bolted down vice makes this a lot easier! But its going onto the 3rd rod! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 I recommend the rod vise! Rather than torquing horizontally the rod vise puts the bolts so you can torque them vertically, that way you can put your weight into it and pushing down keeps the base more stabilized. Especially for me with a free moving vise it would be all over the place if I tried torquing bolts with only pushing and pulling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 I'm more around 80 ftlbs to get my stretch values, either my wrench is shit, which is a possibility, its cheap. This was my experience too. Bolt stretch is a much better indicator of load than torque, lubed or not. Though my Delco torque wrench didn't read that high, I still remember seeing some high 60/low 70 ft-lb values. Is that oil or whisky in the cup in your photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 (edited) Depends on what day and time it is LOL!!!! For that photo its oil! Edited August 7, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 My wrench is shit, it clicks at some points, and not at others. I ordered another one. Luckily I had few extra 2000 bolts, cause the damn wrench wouldn't click and I stretched some too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Now to attach rods to crankshaft. Make sure to keep all the bearing tangs on the bottom. I'm installing all my rods pointing towards driver side, with the bearing tangs of both the rod and cap on bottom. Use a lot of oil, I'm using 20w 50, thats whats in the oil can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Easy cheesy! Torque em down to 60 and we are done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 How'd stretch measure out when you retorqued with rods on crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 (edited) I didn't check the stretch after I stretched them. Just torqued them all to 60. I didn't record the individual stretch of each bolt so impossible to tell. Are we supposed to check the stretch again? If so what for? I can't measure the stretch with the bolt in the rod, so I would have to take them out and check them, which is what I did already, kinda seems redundant. Edited August 7, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 (edited) The stretch spec is in the final installed state, on the crank. Essentially, checking that the material elongated the correct amount which indicates the correct stress in the fastener, which in turn indicates the correct preload on the bolted joint (and that you haven't permanently deformed the bolt in this particular case). The stretch is largely reversible in these bolts - I assumed you got things set proper before to measure rod diameters or something. EDIT: Wait, are you saying that you torqued the bolts so tight that they had a permanent elongation of .006"? If so, those bolts are trashed Edited August 7, 2021 by awfulwaffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Ahh... guess I gotta start over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 Hey that explains why your torque values were so high! Good data point to have - in the 80s probably means the bolts are overstretched Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Good thing I already ordered a set of bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 So zero the gauge with bolt out, dip in oil, torque it down to 60, measure stretch and amount of torque needed, document , do that 8 times, then install rods to that set torque. My gauge can't get a measurement with the rod on the crank, i;ll try it again. Now it all makes sense, when I was plastigauging I probably screwed up a lot of the bolts, thats why everything seemed off. Glad you asked that question!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 (edited) I guess that's the way you have to do it if you can't get the gauge in to measure the rods on crank. That's super weird to me though, the gauge should be designed to do just that - maybe our cranks are narrower than the typical application. I was just barely able to squeeze my mic/pin in to measure on the 'inside' between the crank counterweights, so had to flip it around to measure each bolt in the 'outside' position as shown. I figured it'd be easier with a smaller tool that fit between the counterweights and also didn't require the use of the gage pin to get to the bolt tip. Edited August 7, 2021 by awfulwaffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 interesting discussion. thanks for posting. The subie engine builder at the mazda shop has 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 digital snap-on torque wrenches. He bought them for building subie blocks. Seeing him use them to put an oil pan drain bolt in seems overkill to me. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 8, 2021 Author Share Posted August 8, 2021 I had to completely readjust the gauge to get it to fit on the outside. Now I wait for some new bolts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 I guess while i wait for stuff i will run the wiring for my gauges through the firewall. I was thinking of using the heater core grommet if I have enough room. Any suggestions!? I have a boost gauge, the a/f gauge from the wideband sensor, and a oil pressure/temp aio gauge. I think they are all 52mm. Was thinking I am going to get a pillar gauge pod. This is what I have so far: https://www.flatironstuning.com/garrett-boost-gauge-psi https://www.flatironstuning.com/innovate-mtx-d-dual-gauge-oil-pressure-temperature https://www.flatironstuning.com/innovate-db-air-fuel-gauge Not sure what the size the garret boost gauge is, will have to find the box and measure it. Hopefully its 52mm Anyone got a lead on a triple 52mm pillar gauge pod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 Found this https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-legacy-gt-05-07-guage-pod-options-112515.html But doesn't look like https://www.jcspods.com/ supports 4th gens anymore..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 (edited) Found this https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-legacy-gt-05-07-guage-pod-options-112515.html But doesn't look like https://www.jcspods.com/ supports 4th gens anymore..... look up the "3d printing" thread. There's a few ppl on there who still make stuff https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3d-printing-development-thread-231380.html Edited August 9, 2021 by boxkita Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now