Tehnation Posted September 3, 2021 Author Share Posted September 3, 2021 And done with the pistons. Next I gotta put in all the caps, nuts, bolts, oil seals, oil pump etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 4, 2021 Author Share Posted September 4, 2021 Shortblock finished! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 4, 2021 Author Share Posted September 4, 2021 My only question is the rear main seal, is that supposed to go all the way in or flush with the lip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 4, 2021 Author Share Posted September 4, 2021 hmmm, time to order another rear main seal.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Does that help ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 My only question is the rear main seal, is that supposed to go all the way in or flush with the lip? [ATTACH]293191[/ATTACH]Sits flush. That's way to deep. I hopw you don't damage your crank or sealing surface removing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 (edited) No biggie, a regular seal puller made it easy! Now I wait, cause stealership is probably closed until after Labor day. Anything special about install? Oil the inside or do I need any kind of special lube? I will move on to putting the shortblock on my engine stand, getting the heads on, and then start assembling the entire motor. Edited September 5, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Cleaning the ARP 260-4701 Head Stud kit, using brake cleaner. For install you will need ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lube, ARP 100-9910. https://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9910 Instructions for the kit: https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/260-4701.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) So I'm trying to scrub the head mating surface down, but regular cloth with brake cleaner and paint thinner isn't getting out the dark rings and I don't want to try my scotch pad. Is there something available that's abrasive but won't take off the metal? I thought I read something about some pad, but I can't find the thread or information. Can you use a scotch pad to scrub down the mating surface? Edited September 6, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) Do you need some kind of sealant for the front cam cap? Hmmm.... This thing: Put the studs in hand tight, don't torque them down via an allen/hex key, they should all be around equal length. I cleaned the threads with a tap before hand and blew some air in to clean that crap out. Its an M11 x 1.25, or you can use the ARP 912-0004. If you don't clean the threads and snug them in then they are a complete bitch to get them out! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-912-0004 Make sure to wipe down the surface with brake cleaner/paint thinner/solvent/whatever where the washers will sit in the head, ie around the studs! Edited September 6, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 Sits flush. That's way to deep. I hopw you don't damage your crank or sealing surface removing that. A 10 dollar seal puller will rick roll any seal on this car in under 10 seconds lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 (edited) My pod is done, should be shipped out tomorrow. Looks good! Will match the interior which is an added bonus. Edited September 7, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 (edited) So I open the box for the oil pressure/temp gauge set and realize that it's 2 sensors going to one gauge. So I actually need 2 oil galley plugs adapters, just added one last minute to my rear main seal order . But now I'm wondering how the hell I work 3 sensors, I want to keep the oem as well. https://www.flatironstuning.com/prosport-subaru-oil-galley-plug-1-8-npt There are so many oil galley plugs are any of them exposed or provide enough space for something like this ? There are 2 extra in front and another on top on the drivers side. Edited September 7, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 You can use the scotch pad to remove the black. Do you have a straight edge ? check surface before, during and after. I believe that front cam seal is where you use a thin bead of sealant, making sure not to block the oil passages. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 Found it. 1759 and 1760 of vacation pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 Long block assembled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 (edited) For the oil galleys next to the surface you have to glue I recommend some tiny pipe cleaners to clean out the holes after your done to ensure they are free of any sealant. I had this laying around from other projects, they came in handy! https://www.amazon.com/Set-Cleaning-Brushes-Needles-Motorcycle/dp/B07D8QG6M4 They are the holes on either side of the cam where the cam bracket mates to the head. You should be able to see light, just barely, i'm talking a needle point dot of light and it has to be at the right angle. I just move left to right and look for some light. Edited September 8, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 (edited) Anyone think I can fit the temp sensor in one of the front oil plugs?? Would it hit the timing belt cover? If anyone could just take a look and visualize or measure which side has more room so it can stick out without interfering with anything that would be awesome. Its the one with the wire. Its about 1 3/8" long (about 1 13/16" with the oil plug adapter) and about an 1" width(I could make it a little bit smaller if need be). Edited September 8, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 Anyone? I can't find any good pictures on the net that gives me the proper angle and view. Just pop the hood take a quick look and see if theres any space in front of those oil galley plugs! Please! I'm not sure if the alternator or steering pump is in the way or some random wire. Can you even see it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 No chance. One will be obscured by the AC compressor and the other by the PS pump. I'd stick oil pressure in the forward top oil galley where the OEM pressure switch is, amd oil temp in the aft top plug that's unoccupied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Sorry, I was busy, 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 (edited) Just a thought....could you weld a bung in the oil pan for that temp sensor? As deep as you are into this project, why not? Edit.....saw this suggested in the other post. Edited September 10, 2021 by whitexc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 9, 2021 Author Share Posted September 9, 2021 It looks like the steering pump side might not get in the way. I guess I will start assembling and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 the kb oil pan comes with an extra bung to mount a sensor Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 on the sealant for the cams did you use it sparingly? too much goop around the cam ends is a common problem Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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