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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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So my case halves are soaking in some simple green and water, going to let it sit for probably a week.

 

[ATTACH]287383[/ATTACH]

 

You might rethink letting your parts soak in original simple green.

from the simple green website:

"aluminum - is it safe to use simple green® on aluminum?

when used with caution and according to the instructions, simple green all-purpose cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum. simple green all-purpose cleaner, crystal simple green® cleaner/degreaser, simple green pressure washer concentrates, and pro series™ simple green® automotive cleaner have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. however, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. the aqueous-base and alkalinity of simple green all-purpose cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all simple green® product residues. unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with simple green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.

 

simple green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. extreme simple green® aircraft & precision cleaner and simple green® pro hd are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. these products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances."

 

As always, this is just a suggestion. You're free to do as you wish.

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no problems so far, if anything I can just hot tank it, i'm not to worried. I want to size up all the bearings etc. before bringing to the machine shop, in case other work needs to be done. I want to clean it as much as I can before playing with journals etc. Edited by Tehnation
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no problems so far, if anything I can just hot tank it, i'm not to worried. I want to size up all the bearings etc. before bringing to the machine shop, in case other work needs to be done. I want to clean it as much as I can before playing with journals etc.

 

If the block is going to the machine shop...IMO let them do what they do and give you back a block that been cleaned, bored, decked, measured, cleaned and is ready to assemble. They will tell you what size bearings to get.

 

Have you been in contact with the machine shop ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If the block is going to the machine shop...IMO let them do what they do and give you back a block that been cleaned, bored, decked, measured, cleaned and is ready to assemble. They will tell you what size bearings to get.

 

Have you been in contact with the machine shop ?

 

I think the block only needs a hot tank and a light hone. Don't forget this block was just built 90 miles ago, all this was already done, I don't see the heads or block needing to be decked with under 100 miles of use.

 

The bearings once again aren't as complicated as people make them out to be. Crankshaft is brand new, so are the rods, so it should use std size bearings, if not something is hella wrong. You change bearing sizes when you start polishing the crank or messing with journals. I see a lot of people seem to overcomplicate it which makes people go ocd. Bearings only come in like 5 sizes, 1 of them is standard, 3 are oversized and 1 is undersized I believe. You would need an oversized bearing if you polished the crank. Undersized if you want bigger oil clearance. Basically I would be paying someone to measure a std sized crankshaft, journals and rods. If you didn't surface anything, there shouldn't be a need for a different sized bearing. I don't want to get into pointless stuff lol

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how effective is it? any before and after pics?

 

it takes a few cycles but the aluminum comes out clean. Harsher chemicals would have been faster, but it had less cleanup at the end.

 

My shop doesn't have a water supply so neutralizing chemicals after cleaning is difficult. ymmv.

 

@school - we have a commercial system that holds the entire shortblock. Cleaning oil takes about 15 minutes. Gasket material takes an hour or so depending on type. If you forget and leave it in for 3 days, it looks like its fresh out of the mold. :)

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gasket/sealant material is whats bothering me. I don't feel like sitting here scraping it all off, and god knows where it ends up. I think the 120 for the hot tank is worth it not to deal with all the tedious work.

 

Hmmm, I wonder how much an ultrasonic cleaner that can fit a case half would cost... may make more sense to invest more, 200-400 hopefully, and be able to do it myself. I would guess a case half is about a 1 cuft, which is about 28.5 liters, would need to be able to fit the longest part which is about 13". How much are 30L cleaners is the new question!?

Edited by Tehnation
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hmmmm...... now you got me thinking boxkita!

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30L-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Stainless-Steel-Industry-Heated-Heater-w-Timer/400812713850

 

https://www.amazon.com/CO-Z-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Transducers/dp/B01HBC1UHQ

 

this is just a quick search, but it seems like I can drop extra cash and have something to own versus paying 120 a pop etc.

 

What kind of heat, wattage etc. does your school pro unit put out?

 

Block half is roughly assuming its in proper installed orientation, 12.5-13"L(back to front) x 8"W(left to right, without the aligning pin/cylinder things, anyone know how to get these out of the block? 8.25-8.5" with the pin) x 12"H(top to bottom, a little under 9.5" if you take away the backside lip for the flywheel/clutch). Those 30L tank sizes are 20 x12 x 8", so something a little bit bigger might be better, or better shaped, some off the 20 and more on the 8. The 8" looks like the only issue so far.

 

If I can get something for under 300 I am game.

Edited by Tehnation
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this cheap 250 dollar ebay guy might work, 20"×12"×8" (L x W x H). I may be game.

 

What chemicals/solvents do you use in the school unit?

 

This may have different measurements.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Knob-Control-30L-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Stainless-Steel-Heated-Heater-w-Timer-/124060453596

Edited by Tehnation
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pistons are all clean.

 

1734009144_cleanpistons.thumb.jpg.b1ea892eca6b9e499ab1028176e57a66.jpg

 

I need to figure out if I'm going to hot tank or try this ultrasonic cleaning, i am leaning towards ultrasonic. I can buy it and if it sucks just return it i'm thinking. I'm not well versed on the subject so I will see.

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hmmmm...... now you got me thinking boxkita!

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30L-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Stainless-Steel-Industry-Heated-Heater-w-Timer/400812713850

 

https://www.amazon.com/CO-Z-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Transducers/dp/B01HBC1UHQ

 

this is just a quick search, but it seems like I can drop extra cash and have something to own versus paying 120 a pop etc.

 

What kind of heat, wattage etc. does your school pro unit put out?

 

Block half is roughly assuming its in proper installed orientation, 12.5-13"L(back to front) x 8"W(left to right, without the aligning pin/cylinder things, anyone know how to get these out of the block? 8.25-8.5" with the pin) x 12"H(top to bottom, a little under 9.5" if you take away the backside lip for the flywheel/clutch). Those 30L tank sizes are 20 x12 x 8", so something a little bit bigger might be better, or better shaped, some off the 20 and more on the 8. The 8" looks like the only issue so far.

 

If I can get something for under 300 I am game.

 

The school unit is 6700$, runs on 220, I believe the frequency generators are extra and you need two.

 

The dual adjustable frequency unit is a better model but more expensive. I went with hf because cheap. When I had bigger items, it got to be more time consuming. To do over, I'd search for a used one big enough for a head.

 

I was looking at jewelry type cleaners - https://www.riogrande.com/searchresults#q=ultrasonic%20cleaner&t=products&sort=%40priceslider%20descending&layout=card&numberOfResults=12

 

This was another place I checked on - https://www.ultrasonicllc.com/ . A bit more pricey than I wanted.

 

CL has them every once in awhile, too.

 

Cleaning solution varies. School uses something called "monkey gru".

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the tank i'm looking at has a height of 8 inches, so they may stick out or prevent lid cover from sealing, not sure how important that is but. I'm going to try this 250 dollar 30L tank and see how it goes. 30 days to return, so its worth trying to see if this cheap unit can get the job done. I need to figure out what to clean it with as well, I think I need something neutral, not acidic or a base. Edited by Tehnation
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The lid holds in the heat better. Aluminum foil as a cover with a cloth underneath so the vibrations don't set your teeth on edge.

 

my hf unit goes to 140 degrees. The school unit goes to 170. The heat really makes a difference as well as the cleaning fluid. I changed the fluid every time it got dirty.

 

School tuition is cheaper than buying a unit plus I get access to other pricey tools, but its not the right solution for everyone. However if you have a local tech school that's open (mine is the only one doing labs in the area), you might drop in and see if they have a student who wants experience cleaning. There's always one person who's a go-getter in each class.

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This unit goes to 80C which is 176F, what are your numbers in?

 

Does the frequency matter? This one does 40khz, not sure whats suitable for aluminum etc.

 

feets & inches & F's

 

School uses dual frequencies, 37 & 40 at 180 degrees out of phase, supposedly. I just flip the power switch and buzzing starts. High-level details are here - https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/05/ultrasonic-cleaning/

 

15 seems to be good enough on the school machine. My hf took upto 2 hours to fully clean really dirty parts. Timer was 4 minutes at a time, so real pain in the butt.

 

The more expensive units have better features like timer and frequency settings as well as being bigger.

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