Tehnation Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 All the bearings used were std size. My crank had 125k miles on it, i'm not sure if they polished it or not. Also looks like a lot of silicone, will have to push some air through the system to check for any clogs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 (edited) Also ordered https://www.flatironstuning.com/innovate-mtx-d-dual-gauge-oil-pressure-temperature?qty=1 So I can monitor oil pressure, shoulda had this installed in the first place to see what the hell was going on! This is a must if your raising rpm. And by not having it I can't accurately pinpoint the initial issue. Edited September 16, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 arrrghhh ..... my cam gears... they are new as well... gunk could have got in there as well...wtf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 arrrghhh ..... my cam gears... they are new as well... gunk could have got in there as well...wtfYou can clean them. It's really easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 you'll need a new oil cooler. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 Connecting rod oil clearance: Standard 0.017 — 0.045 mm (0.0007 — 0.0018 in) Crankshaft oil clearance: Standard 0.010 — 0.030 mm (0.0004 — 0.0012 in) found this post in the engine rebuild section about this issue. Maybe it helps. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/main-bearing-clearance-questions-282240.html Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 I got my numbers from 05 fsm pg 1787-1789, I wonder if it changed for later years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 (edited) I got my numbers from 05 fsm pg 1787-1789, I wonder if it changed for later years. it might have. The valve lash numbers changed as time passed. But chasing the changes will just make you nuts. Edited September 17, 2020 by boxkita Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 (edited) I am going to contact Manley and King to see what they have to say about tolerances. I may be running my tolerances to tight for my rod bearings, seems like king says they should be a lot looser. Will look into it more. Is there a guide or video for cleaning the oil pump and cam gears? I thought there was but I can't seem to find anything. Edited September 18, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 try these for the cam gear Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Trying to decide on which oil pump, i think i will stick with the 11mm, but for single avcs it should be 10mm. I'm not sure if my stage 3 cams and increased redline warrant the 11mm because it may cause aeration if i'm not really pushing it that high and driving at normal rpms. So running the 11mm and tight tolerances could have caused an issue when I randomly romp on it and it's not giving me fresh oil. A lot to research... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I have a 11mm. I romped on it alot. Aeration wasn't really an issue, but oil consumption was. To this day, idk where it went. Following cars said no blue smoke or oil smells. Careful of assigning blame to something based on marketing data. Unless you are at wot most of the time, you're not going to have "race" level problems. Chasing the bearing tolerance seems like the better approach since that's where yer damage is. You might pm m sprank with pics and get a second opinion. He's seen more failures than anyone else (maybe not anyone but more than most) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Watch this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 oh i'm familiar with that video lol! I've been corresponding with jon, the guy in the video about the parts i'm ordering for a while now. Flatirontuning has some great customer service and pricing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 Just ordered a bunch of stuff: crank, rods, bearings, seals, oil cooler, oil pressure/temp gauge kit, various nuts and bolts, piston ring compressor tool, 4" flex hone bit, red line assembly lube, sealant, scotch pads, plastigauge and arp assembly lube. 1st thing I gotta do is clean everything, going to soak the case halves and scrub the outer parts down, and push air through everything. Then I'm going to break down the piston rings and clean the pistons. Gotta see if I need new rings or not, will probably just get a new set, if so will need a piston ring filer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 How were your heads and cam journals? Regardless, you should remove the oil galleys and clean. You wouldn't want any of that residual oil to contaminate your new stuff. The plugs are a pain to remove without stripping and needing to drill out. General consensus says the best way is to heat with a torch and then remove. This method does work. They are also slightly expensive and it adds up since there are a lot of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 18, 2020 Author Share Posted September 18, 2020 heads and cam journals are surprisingly in tip top shape! No wear or gouges. A good cleaning and some brake cleaner and they will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 heads and cam journals are surprisingly in tip top shape! No wear or gouges. A good cleaning and some brake cleaner and they will be fine.Brake cleaner will not clean the oil galley passages in the head as they dead end in several spots. It's not me building it but I would remove, clean and replace the small galley plugs in the heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 (edited) mine are new and hopefully easy to get out, good call! Edited September 19, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 19, 2020 Author Share Posted September 19, 2020 (edited) Plastiguage or not, I would measure the bearing thickness. You might be able to swap them around to the best tolerances. Measure inside the house so the temps will be close enough. We used a brake power bleeder connected to the oil pressure sensor port. Rotate the engine slowly with ~20 psi of pressure in the bottle and it will feed oil throughout the motor. Which power bleeder did you purchase? I see some for 55 bucks. I believe I saw somewhere that someone used a 10 dollar garden pump sprayer or something of that nature from home depot. I will have to look into it more. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2 Edited September 19, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 i have the garden version. Alot of people have had good success with it. Sbt swears by it Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Which power bleeder did you purchase? I see some for 55 bucks. I believe I saw somewhere that someone used a 10 dollar garden pump sprayer or something of that nature from home depot. I will have to look into it more. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2 That is the exact one I used, but only because I already had it for bleeding brakes. You could use anything that pressurizes with a fitting on the end for the fluid to flow through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 what fitting did you guys use or can you just clap the hose to the nub the sensor spins onto? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 what fitting did you guys use or can you just clap the hose to the nub the sensor spins onto? Underdog's thread - https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html?t=214760 Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 what fitting did you guys use or can you just clap the hose to the nub the sensor spins onto? I took the oil pressure sensor to ACE and bought a fitting for like $2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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