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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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Got the package today, going to try it out tomorrow/today/sunday lol. I can fit in one piece nicely even fits in the basket, but I will need to do it two times to get all the surfaces because it is not tall enough to cover the entire thing.

 

I will post some before and after pictures when I'm done.

 

Went with some Extreme Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, 15-20 bucks a gallon.

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I couldn't get to it today, I didn't realize the thing needs like a good 2+ hrs to warm up to 80C, after waiting for an hour and going from 42C to 47 or 48C, I had to call it because I didn't have the time to sit around and wait to see how long it would take.

 

I was able to at least test it to make sure it actually heated up and worked, I thought it was broken at first until the number went up. I used hot water from the tap initially.

 

I think it takes a long time to warm up for safety and longevity, its not very thick steel so I would rather it take hours to get to 80C than burn down my house.

 

Now I know, going to turn it on in the morning and let it warm up for several hours.

 

But for 260 bucks total for the unit, so far not bad.

 

As extra insurance I would have a fire alarm and extinguisher/hose nearby just in case!

Edited by Tehnation
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That sounds like the experiences noted on the amazon listing

 

I used a "hotpot" to get mine to boiling, then poured it in. It gave overtemp warnings until it cooled yo the correct temp.

 

I moved mine into the garage away from flammable stuff. I also used a thicker gauge electrical cord. The securely fitted lid did wonders for heating times.

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ahh the lid, that would help, didn't use it when I was heating it up.

 

On another note, i'm trying to figure out why people would have two different sized bearings on the same journal. Doesn't make any sense to me.

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about 2.25-2.5 hrs to get to hottest temperature. Hitting the cover for 15 minutes when will see.

 

-Have some ventilation if your using a solvent, smell is harsh

-Use a mask, these fumes can't be healthy and they are harsh

Edited by Tehnation
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ahh the lid, that would help, didn't use it when I was heating it up.

 

On another note, i'm trying to figure out why people would have two different sized bearings on the same journal. Doesn't make any sense to me.

 

bearings come in standard sizes, wear comes in non-standard sizes. mixing sizes gives you more range with less machining.

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I understand what your saying but it still doesn't make sense to me lol.

 

If one side of the journal is not round then I don't see how putting in a different size bearing would help or work, the ends of the bearings wouldn't be flush, couldn't be a good thing long term. Only thing to fix that is to line bore it and get proper size set of bearings. How could a journal go that out of round on one side to the point where a different bearing would align it properly with another bearing. I just can't picture it in my head. On a normal motor gravity is your favor and the crank rests on the bottom bearing and the seams are on the sides, with our motors the seam is on the top and bottom, those bearings being different sizes doesn't compute in my head lol. If its that badly worn on only one side, then something was wrong, and once again line bore, because what are the odds of getting it to wear exactly .025, .25 or .50.

Edited by Tehnation
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Looks like I kicked this things ass.... stopped working, dead as a doorknob. It was getting some good results, just seems like it's going to take a hell of a long time, to the point where you fry this thing. We will see if they send me another one.
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I understand what your saying but it still doesn't make sense to me lol.

 

If one side of the journal is not round then I don't see how putting in a different size bearing would help or work, the ends of the bearings wouldn't be flush, couldn't be a good thing long term. Only thing to fix that is to line bore it and get proper size set of bearings. How could a journal go that out of round on one side to the point where a different bearing would align it properly with another bearing. I just can't picture it in my head. On a normal motor gravity is your favor and the crank rests on the bottom bearing and the seams are on the sides, with our motors the seam is on the top and bottom, those bearings being different sizes doesn't compute in my head lol.

 

You're confusing gravity with thrust. On flat four, the seam isn't under load. The crankshaft is slapping back & forth horizontally. So the different bearing thickness doesn't matter, well it does. Sure a line hone with a matching on the crankshaft would be better. But then you have a machine shop involved and you might as well get everything else done too.

 

Also if you look closely at the bearing end, they have probably been trimmed a bit.

 

read down about half way, it talks about different bearing sizes - http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1907-ten-important-facts-engine-bearing-clearance/

Edited by boxkita
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Looks like I kicked this things ass.... stopped working, dead as a doorknob. It was getting some good results, just seems like it's going to take a hell of a long time, to the point where you fry this thing. We will see if they send me another one.

 

$250 vs $6500...explained

 

sorry for your loss.

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I was thinking the same thing, there may to much weight pushing down. It made a different sound when I let it sit in the basket in the tank, I think the basket just bottomed out due to weight, and probably eats up the vibrations more than the water.

 

I would love to see that video, I was trying to figure out a way to suspend the item in the tank rather than place it in the tank. I think I was getting to complicated thinking about pullies, maybe a rope and a string.

 

I'm going to exchange it for another and try it again.

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luckily I have a solid pipe running directly above where I set it up, I'm going to grab a single pulley block and some rope and hang it over for the 2nd try. I felt like it was cleaning light stuff fine and quickly, but the heavy stuff not so much. I have to figure out a way to hang the block and keep it level, my knot and rope skills are crap..
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my hf came with a plastic tray so I could set things on it.

 

for the big tank, I use a length of romex (house electrical wiring) strung across the opening and the lid jammed on top. The parts are threaded with the romex and hang from it.

 

for bigger items, engine blocks we use an overhead traveling crane. For low budget, an engine hoist would be equivalent. Or a block & tackle (https://www.harborfreight.com/gambrel-and-pulley-hoist-99758.html). Just need a cam-lock for the rope end so you don't have to hold it.

 

Get a ratchet strap and forgo the whole knot experience

 

Here's an ultrasonic video of a billet block cleaning (

). Note cleaning times and parts holder. Also note the extra cleaning step before raising the part out of the bin. @home, I use oil-soak material that doesn't absorb water (like this https://www.newpig.com/pig-oil-only-absorbent-mat-pad/p/MAT403#desc-spec) to "clean" the floaties off the top before pulling the parts. Edited by boxkita
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I understand what your saying but it still doesn't make sense to me lol.

 

If one side of the journal is not round then I don't see how putting in a different size bearing would help or work, the ends of the bearings wouldn't be flush, couldn't be a good thing long term. Only thing to fix that is to line bore it and get proper size set of bearings. How could a journal go that out of round on one side to the point where a different bearing would align it properly with another bearing. I just can't picture it in my head. On a normal motor gravity is your favor and the crank rests on the bottom bearing and the seams are on the sides, with our motors the seam is on the top and bottom, those bearings being different sizes doesn't compute in my head lol. If its that badly worn on only one side, then something was wrong, and once again line bore, because what are the odds of getting it to wear exactly .025, .25 or .50.

 

 

 

Are you saying that the both bearing halves on the same journal can be different sizes ?

 

That's a new one on me.

 

I always thought the crank journal is machined round, measured and matching bearing was chosen.

 

I never heard of using two different bearing halves on the same journal.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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yea, i thought it was crazy as well. Maybe I have been comprehending it incorrectly, but from some posts on here and nasioc, I thought mixing journal bearing halves was a thing, I could be wrong. Edited by Tehnation
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yea, i thought it was crazy as well. Maybe I have been comprehending it incorrectly, but from some posts on here and nasioc, I thought mixing journal bearing halves was a thing, I could be wrong.

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure, it's not a thing. I've only been around engine for about 50 years...

 

May be its one of those things, "don't believe everything you read in the internet"

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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